I made this fixture by ripping a 3/4 wide strip of Baltic to define the width of the slot, then reglueing it together. I used a 3/4 collar and a 5/8 bit.
In addition to mortising for the hook to enter the leg, one also must mortise below that point for the hook to move toward the floor for complete engagement. I discovered that laying the plate in one way, marking, then the other way, and marking again, made a perfect outline of what needed to be removed. I used the drill press.
Once I milled the rails, I added accent strips top and bottom. The strips are overwide, trued with a flush trim router bit.
I revamped the template to fit over the ends of the rails.
Somwhere along in here I milled the top and bottom rails for the heads and feet. By now you've surmised that there are actually two sets here-two queens, two twins.
Once I milled the rails, I added accent strips top and bottom. The strips are overwide, trued with a flush trim router bit.
I revamped the template to fit over the ends of the rails.
Somwhere along in here I milled the top and bottom rails for the heads and feet. By now you've surmised that there are actually two sets here-two queens, two twins.
The horizontal configuration was easier than I thought it would be. Last time I put the rails in the vise vertically and stood on the work table. Not good; too much noise and dusty in all the wrong places.
Marking the leg sets for consistent color and flatgrain/edgegrain orientation
I milled 16 legs, 8 of each length, and one spare each. I marked them earlier in sets and face orientation, but now it gets real critical to pay attention for the other mortises.
I used the Jet benchtop mortiser for this-1/2 inch
I laid out all the head/foot mortises and cut them all. What I hadn't paid attention to was that on the foot, the footboard only goes partway across-then it is open for the ladder access. Oops.
So I scoured around for the leg cutoffs and fixed 'em!
Remember that from your High School Annual? Well, I forgot to get pictures of cutting the tenons on the head/foot rails. Did it on the RA saw, then ripped the top and bottom on the bandsaw with fence and stop, and hand cut those pieces out.
A look at the tenons and the process of cutting mortises for the staves
I used the Laguna mortiser for cutting these mortises. They're 3/8 wide and 15/16 deep. There was a lot of heavy math trying to get a similar look in the two widths of bed-a problem you'd not face on a traditional bunkbed.
I finally decided it was an opportunity to call in the walnuts. So the upper head is ideal numbers but on the queen the two center staves are walnut, and somewhat wider. I think the look will be grand.
Lee - The bunk bed parts are looking great. A lot of work and materials going into the project - more than I would have thought. That's a lot o mortises.
Anticipating what finish you will use and hope to see photos of the finished project.
Help arrives! And those big ol' chamfers where the mattress corner is
My son-in-law Patrick had some time, I needed the help. He's a great hand, very adept, nice to have around.
We got everything sanded that even looked like wood.
While he was doing that, I rigged a setup to rout the chamfer on the inside of the legs. I made stops, then clamped two legs together. My system of marking the legs helped guarantee the chamfer would appear on the right corner.
I did it in two passes with the stepper on this plunge router.
Then I did the rest of the leg corners with a chamfer half the size of the big one.
Ends and Rails complete: We have Framage! Plus souvenirs.
All eight ends are glued, cleaned up and ready for the cap, which will be walnut. We put one together with plywood dummy caps so we could balance an upper end on it to see if 4/4 was thick enough for the cap. I think so.
Two qualified critics happened to be in the shop at the time we were doing this, and we had a fascinating discussion about the "look of strength" and how important it is. There was universal concern that the upper leg resting on a space in the lower end was faintly to mildly disturbing.
The consensus was to wait until the walnut was installed and then see if some kind of corbel was called for. We spoke of an individual one, right where the leg lands, or maybe a horizontal doubler of some kind that would extend from the center out both ways, thus being balanced and looking more intentional.
Your thoughts?
Here are some souvenirs from the process so far: excess staves, made intentionally, a rail end that was used to tweak the setups for cutting the tenons, and two gauges I made to get the stave intervals correct once they were green glued in place.
There's a whole lot of sanding even though there are very few parts. I managed to design in a whole much of little inside corners. Patrick spent several hours over the sanding table, detailing out the ladders.
Where the cap stops for the ladder access to the top bunk, the cap looked like it was on 2/3 of a post. Well, it was.
So we fashioned this little corbel that solved that "unfinished" appearance problem. This was the sidegrain face of the legs (as opposed to the flat grain) and Patrick even lined up the gluelines. Looks very cool, but you have to look real hard to see it!
It's obvious now, but throughout we used cherry plugs on the walnut and walnut plugs on the cherry and a rubber plug in the bathtub.
Where the cap stops for the ladder access to the top bunk, the cap looked like it was on 2/3 of a post. Well, it was.
So we fashioned this little corbel that solved that "unfinished" appearance problem. This was the sidegrain face of the legs (as opposed to the flat grain) and Patrick even lined up the gluelines. Looks very cool, but you have to look real hard to see it!
It's obvious now, but throughout we used cherry plugs on the walnut and walnut plugs on the cherry and a rubber plug in the bathtub.
The ladders stand off from the ends of the bed, enough so toes won't bump the cap on the foot of the bed. Steps are in dadoes, relieved so they're a little proud on the outside.
Pretty simple and straightforward: They need to slip over the rail of the upper bunk, be strong, and that's about it. So I added little walnut ends to them so there would be three things: slip, strong, spiffy.
This image shows the rails ready for finish. This is a foreshadowing of the next blog entry which is titled, as you likely guessed,
"Ready for Finish"
I sense your breathless anticipation, so I'll get right to it.
It's a shopful, as you'll see in these images. Finish is 50% Natural Watco, 50% Sherwin Williams satin polyurethane varnish. I really like this combination of products.
It took two of us four hours to put on the first coat. There are a lot of surfaces there! We were also chasing the occasional heretofore invisible glue stain, the random ding, the "How'd we miss this?" planer chatter, that sort of thing.
Next coats will be significantly less time. Three total, plus wax.
Well done my friend - I just saw your blog entry now and went back to look at your other entries. I'm starting a similar build just now - but I'm way back at about where you were for entry #1!
Rented a Youall truck for the 20 mile journey. Total cost, $74, including 24 blankets. We're dealing with stuff that is finished every side, and 22 pieces of them to boot! It was good to be able to strap stuff to the walls and bulkhead.
All went well and the clients are very appreciative of the work that went into these. "We're going to have to put better lighting in here!
I knew they were going to love it! You did a great job on that set. Can't wait to see the finished pics in their new home.
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