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#1 ·
Japanese hand plane KANNA setup

Japanese hand plane setup
Fitting, tuning and sharpening.

If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now!
This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
It is not a show off, not a tool gloat, but two basic Japanese hand planes going from useless to being used.

Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' where he tells a story of how his learning master took a expensive Kanna (hand plane) away from Toshio that he had just bought but never used and never gave it back to him again, this because Toshio was not yet skilled enough to own a plane of that quality his master said. This made me all fired up to learn, to earn my right to use a Japanese hand plane.
So I decided to start modest and ordered two planes from a guy in Japan, he wrote the Kanna's were almost new but not working… This seemed for me like the perfect place to start, to understand why, and hopefully to find out why, and then make them work (or to give up and use my Stanley's - laugh).

And so this is how this blog begins.


Here they are the two Kanna's that would not work for the owner in their homeland Japan.
In Japan a hand plane is called Kanna, Hira-Kanna means normal plane.
Some types:
Ara-shiko - roughing plane (with or without chip breaker).
Chu-shiko - intermediate smoothing plane (medium to high quality blades, normally with chip breaker).
Jo-shiko - smoothing plane (high quality blades with or without chip breaker).

My new planes will go under the category of Chu-shiko and I will set them up as such.
The small is the size of a block plane, 55×150mm body with a 43mm wide 3mm thick blade that give a cutting width of 33mm.
The large is like a 4-4,5 Stanley, 65×245mm body with a 52mm wide 8mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 42mm.
The one I already have and that are setup is:
60×210mm body with a 50mm wide 6mm thick laminated blade that give a cutting width of 44mm.


First step is to remove the sales marks and with an acetone remove the rust protection lacquer from the blade and chip breaker.
This is done in no time with a cloth and will allow you to flatten and sharpen later.


Flattening the Uragane (chip breaker) on a grinding stone.
The chip breaker on a Japanese plane is less wide than the blade since it is fitted into the opening and the blade is then narrowed in the cutting end to fit the chip breaker, basically a piece of metal that have a full contact just before the blade tip, it can be either a completely flat piece of metal against a flat iron, or with the corners bed in each side to hold distance in the other end, simple but effective.
The chip breaker is held in place by the metal cross pin you see on the plane, so the flat chip breaker is wedge shaped.
(The chip breaker is relatively new on Japanese planes).


First flatten the top by holding it down while moving it away in a motion that follows the curve until the point where it touch down on the blade, this will help to prevent wood shavings in getting stocked under the blade and make the shaves bend of in a controlled move.


Now color the side that will touch the blade.


Turn it, and flatten it to secure a tight fit with no slip.
Of course if it is a flat wedge shaped chip breaker you will need to flatten the whole side.


Finish by removing the burr gently.


You can place a thin ruler on the stone to prevent the back end from being flattened.


Making the chip breaker fit.
The first thing I noticed when I got my planes was that the one chip breaker fell out, and the other was really loose.
This can be adjusted by bending the back ends.
I did this by securing them in my wise and then gently beat with a medium size hammer.
(Never use a too small hammer since you will have no force behind your action).


Like so.
Do this and try to set it in the plane, when you are happy for the fit stop (I guess this is logic…).


Now time to give some oil or wax to prevent rust.
The Japanese like to use Camellia oil I use a good bees wax.


The Kanna-ba (plane iron).
A Japanese blade are as you can see on this photo laminated by a hard steel on the cutting side and a soft on the top, this is giving a stabile blade that are extremely sharp and yet can absorb moves they say.
(Personally I believe it is more tradition and a remedy from a time where the steel were more expensive than the manpower).


Sharpening.
I believe a Japanese hand plane iron must be sharpened by hand, and the fact that they are so thick makes this really easy to control.
Start by flattening the back until this is dead flat. The back of a Japanese plane iron are hollowed out like on the chisels so it is an easy and fast process to flatten the back.
Then turn it and press down the blade until it lays flat on you stone (here I use glass plates with grades of sandpaper) and sharpen as you would normally do. I pull the blade away from the cutting direction and finish on grade 1200 sand paper, this can make a razor edge.


I like to finish of with a strapping on leather with a honing paste, again I only pull the blade, and this makes the mirror shine and a scary sharp edge.


A test run shows the blades are really wonderfully sharp, even the smaller blade are not a laminated blade, but it is also 'only' 3mm thick.


Next challenge is the blade since both the blades are loose in the fitting and the big one so loose that it can only be used if I hold the blade while using the plane.
As you can see the Japanese planes have no wedge, the blade are wedge shaped and so it is self wedging in the plane body. This can be a problem if the wood gets moisture since it will not be able to be pushed in, or if it dry out and the fit become too loose. If the blade fit is too tight you need to file the hole slightly bigger.


Here you see how bad my situation is on the big plane, when the blade are firmly wedged in, it is way out the sole of the plane, and this makes it useless.


The small one has the same problem but only an mm or so.


The solution is wonderfully simple.
PAPER.
Just strips of paper that you glue on the bed, you can try a dry fit first to find out how thick paper you need.


I found some wonderful papers I use for origami that comes from an old song book, so my planes will be full of music after I hope.


White carpenter glue thinned slightly in water is applied on the bed.


And the paper set on top.
The big plane needed two layers of this thin paper before it was a perfect fit.


The sole.
Now it is time to check the sole of the plane.
The one on my small plane was fine and flat, but the one on the big was a disaster!


The one side was too high, so I could only make shaves one side, and the mouth was more open in one side, no wonder the Japanese guy said the plane did not work it probably never did from the start.
So I started by taking some shaves with another hand plane from the side that was higher until the sides were even and the mouth straight (sorry I forgot to picture this).


With a pencil I draw waves on the sole so I can see where I take of material.
And then flatten it on a glass plate with a grid 120 sand paper.


Almost there.


Now I am happy.
Actually I was happy before, now I am just even happier…


Anatomy of the Japanese plane sole.
First of all you pull a Japanese Kanna so the part in front of the blade we will call the front of the plane is the back and the part behind the blade we call the back is the front on a Japanese plane.
The Japanese plane body is longer in front end so you have maximum support there when you pull, where our western planes have a longer part behind the blade for the support of the push.
When you pull it, you hold right hand on the part in front of the blade facing towards you with your right hand and the left hand are placed behind the blade so you can use this as a handle. Look here.)
For a Japanese truing and smoothing plane the sole will have two 'waves', the first in front will have two contact points that touch the wood one in the front and one just before the mouth. At the back the wave will start just behind the blade a hair higher than the two front points and then the end will be at 0,5-1 mm over the wood (1/32 inch).

The western magazine wood geeks tells us flat, flat and flat, but on wooden planes flat is not the answer, actually I doubt if it is on metal planes also, but the perfection of a metal sole would be quite a job…


For truing - Roku-dai you will have touchdown at the end also to secure a perfect flat surface.


So you will need to remove material in the two 'hollow' zones after flattening the sole, here the back (in front of the blade).
To do this you can use a Dai-Naoshi-kanna (scraping plane), and this was why I made me one that you can see on the pictures, and there are a link for this at the end of this blog.


And here the front end (behind the blade).


Or you can use a wide chisel, a plane iron or a piece of glass.
Do not say I pretend there is only one truth please.


The little Kanna with fresh shaves after my setup.


And the big Kanna.


Here thin and thick shaves from the big Kanna.


Sweet yes?


But really sweet is it to not just look at these Japanese planes, but to now understand them, to feel them, to know why they now work perfectly and to know what to do if they stop to do so one day.
Yes it was a really interesting experience, an experience for the hands and the mind, and hopefully I now deserve to use these beautiful Japanese planes, and who knows one day perhaps a better one, I have no master, but sure hope no one will take them away from me.
And who knows perhaps one day I will save money to buy me a Jo-shiko.

This is the end of the hand plane setup blog in the Japanese tools series, I will soon post a second about setting up the chisels.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with the thought of using Japanese hand planes or even better have a plane that just will not perform.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

Links:
My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false

UPDATE 23 JULI 2012
A Russian woodworker George contacted me and asked for permission to translate this part one of the blog to Russian and post it on the site where he is a member to help other woodworkers become able to setup a Kanna. Since I believe in sharing knowledge I said ok and I am happy and proud to be able to inspire people now also in Russia.

Here are my blog in Russian:
http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php?topic=10590.25

I noticed my name in Russian is Мадса, that's kind of cool I think! Smiles.

New Dec 2013
Link:


Best thoughts,

Mads
 
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#30 ·
#33 ·
Japanese chisel NOMI setup

Japanese chisel NOMI setup
preparing, fitting the hoop and sharpening.

If you are looking for 'ready out of the box' just leave this blog now, and forget about Japanese chisels!
This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool.
Traditionally new Japanese chisels will need a setup before they can be used, for us in the west it might sound strange, to buy new that need setup… But the truth is that after you have done this process you will be familiar with your chisels and you can trim them the way you prefer.

When this is said it is no rocket science, just a few easy steps before you use the chisels, and the reason why I make this blog is to show all that it is easy.

Reading Toshio Odate's inspire ring words in his book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' gave me the knowledge to get started on the Japanese chisels my sister bought me when she was in Korea by the help of our friend here Poisson - thank you all three.

And so this blog begins.

Before we really start I will tell a little of what I have read about the Japanese chisels;
If we travel to Japan we might find a little old blacksmith that can make us some hand forged wonderful chisels, perhaps even only the metal, we can have them made of blue or white steel for the perfect cutting edge, he will hammer for days on this one chisel turning the metal again and again to make it more and more compressed, with softer old anchor chain steel as the softer front part, and our smith might come from a family of Samurai sword smiths that was without a job since 1870 when swords became illegal to wear and own, he would have had to start making tools in the days where the samurais became forbidden, many weapon smiths ended like that - this is the wonderful dream.
We might also get some from a respected dealer who makes more than one chisel a week, and friends if we buy chisels from a western dealer that can get us as many as we want no Samurai smith has been involved… Be realistic please.

So what do we get? We get what we pay for!

High quality chisels, hand forged by a master smith, dead expensive, and you need to go to Japan, and you need someone to recommend the smith.
High quality chisels, hand forged by smiths in different little workshops but sold as one brand just like in England in the good old days, this is the safe way for a western to find good Japanese tools in Japan or at a respected dealer of Japanese tools in the west.
Medium - High quality chisels factory made by smiths and under strict control of quality of work and materials, it is most likely these we get here in the west, and trust me this is nothing to be sad about, this is quality at its best.
Medium quality chisels from small shops or factories, these might varies in hardness and finish, so you need to test to feel sure of the quality - these we also get here and often so cheap that we should be worried.
Finally there is crap, no reason to talk about this.

Mine is factory made and was with brand stickers on the wood that are a sure sign of factory, the quality seems excellent since the steel holds a excellent edge and can become razor sharp, the finish more on the fabrication side than 'hand made', and the finish from machinery still visible.
So are you happy MaFe? Yabadooo yes, I love them.

Facts:
Bevel edge, three or four hollow grinds on the back and so on is all new inventions in Japan, probably from western influence so this has nothing to do with 'traditional' Japanese chisels even I would never buy new chisels without bevel edge, the number of hollows on the back is pure taste, more will give more support but also more sharpening.


Here is what started my interest, the gift from my wonderful sister.
Six chisels recommended by our LJ fellow Poissons woodworking teacher in Korea.
A little wonderful Japanese Kanna (Plane).
A Korean mallet and marking knife so Korea would also be represented in my work shop.


The first thing I did was to split it into pieces so I could see how it was made, and become familiar with the parts of the chisel. To do this you hold the blade and bang the handle into the side of a flat piece of wood until it will fall off, use the whole surface so you do not make dings into the handles wood.
The blade HOSAKI on Japanese chisels are of laminated steel, a layer of high quality hard steel on the back to be able to make a sharp edge, this is hardened to RC 64 normally and then a softer front that are supposed to shock absorb, I am not sure I believe in this, I believe it could give some flex on a sword, but on a chisel I think it is simply tradition because it was easier to work with the softer steal, and the fact that the softer steel was less expensive, especially when I hear they used to use old anchor chains for this part (but this is my personal thoughts).
The shank (first part of tang) KUBI, Ferrule KUCHIGANE, The handle 'Eh' (thank you)..., Iron ring, KATSURA.
Notice the Japanese chisels today have both the tang and the socket in form of the ferrule, in this way the handle should have an optimal shock absobtion when you beat it.


The first thing I did was to sand down the handles, this because I think they had given them lacquer.


I prefer linseed oil and wax.


To get the hoop of, place the end of the handle on top of a flat surface, I used a bolt head, then used a small hammer top tap down the hoop while turning the chisel around slow.
Hoops might be custom for each chisel so keep then separate, and they might have an upside and a down side so pay attention and mark them when you take them of.


Like this it will come of easy.
Some can be all loose from birth.


To fit the hoop and shape the top for beating you must soften the wood and turn it out (kind of like making a rivet). This can be done by beating the wood sides on the end while the hoop is off or by beating with a wedge shape at the top to split the fibers slightly so they can be worked.


Place the chisel on a piece of wood while doing this so you do not damage the blade.


Well prepared now soft.


Now work the end to create a flat slightly rounded surface that grasp over the steel ring.


Here you see the steps.


And the whole bunch done.


Now drip some oil on the tops.


And you might want to hammer a little while they are wet to make them smooth.


So here we are at the back of the blade this is hollowed out so you will need a minimum of honing each time you sharpen. It is not supposed to be a mirror shine here so if you are one of those who can't have a tool where you can't see your own reflection just forget about Japanese chisels.


First take a cloth with some acetone or alcohol to remove grease and rust preventing lacquer.


Then wax or perhaps camellia oil if you prefer the Japanese way of rust prevention.


Time to sharpen.
We start with the back, I use here the sandpaper on glass method, but of course Japanese water stones are more the thing…
Start by flattening the back and go all the way up to mirror polish, I went 320-400-600-800-1200.
If you use Japanese stones start with 1000-6000-10000 later you just need to touch up with the last two.


Then sharpen the bevel the same tour.


And I finish as always with a tour on honing compound on a leather strap, this gives the final touch to the razor edge and a mirror shine.
Back first.


Then bevel.


Bad photo sorry but you can see the two layers of steel.


And the shiny flat back.


Now wax or oil.


And check for sharpness - youuuhooo this is wonderful sharp.
I get so excited I need to make waves - lol.


And this is where the story ends.
The chisels right at hand in their fine new rack, what more can you ask for?
(Except a set of Iles right behind…).
Life is sweet, and full of surprises.
(Notice a little new one on the table…).

This is the end of the chisel setup blog in the Japanese tools series.

Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels.

Links:
My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21

Best thoughts,

Mads
 
#34 ·
Ichi ban!
Here's a picture of some Oire-Nomi that I recently setup.
The one in the middle is complete.
I add the burnt lattice pattern to both improve the grip and for decoration.
I also "tap-out" the edge with a hammer (fenate gennou) to slightly push back the soft steel layer from the hard steel layer.
Office supplies Wood Pen Everyday carry Tool


Blessings,
Bro. Tenzin
 

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#56 ·
Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.

Eight old Japanese chisels NOMI get back to life.
A little travel from trash to treasure…

If you want tools that do not need some sweat before using them forget about old used Japanese nomi (chisels)!
This blog is for those who want to understand their tools, to trim, adjust and become the master of your tool by understanding it to the full.

In the last part of this blog series you can read a lot more about Japanese chisels, in this blog I will only show my restore of a handful of old Japanese chisels that I bought from a guy on the Japanese E-bay (No I speak no Japanese).

Why do this?
To try and understand these Japanese chisels, to see the different types, to try and use different types - yes I am curious and want to learn and this was the only force for this. And since I could not go to a flee marked, this was the second best solution.


Nothing like boxes in the mail, I had boxes from many counties these last year's where I have played with tools and it is not the first from Japan, but the first with old tools and this made me kind of exited.


So what did I buy?
At E-bay I found some sets of four Japanese carpenter tools… Three sets to be exact, the first set were three chisels and a file, the next three chisels and a cutter and the last was four chisels.
They all seemed to be different, both of shape, type, age, makers and quality, also together they could become a set since the sizes was different too, so it was just what I was looking for.


The seller was a nice guy that also wrote English and this made life easier for me…
He had also this old plane (to restore) that he could throw in on the deal and gave me a fair price on the shipping so we landed just over a hounded dollar in total, what I found fair so I accepted the deal.


Back to the chisels.
I will not start to guess on the quality, not either which of them that are hand forged and which are factory made, for this my knowledge are too limited, but it is obvious that some of them are stamped with maker and that one are for sure send out of a production line (that might still mean hand forged).


They are all except for the widest one with no bevel edge on the sides, this was normal for Japanese chisels.


A single one seems to be quite new, and have a flashy label with 'superior gold quality' on it.
What this means time and use will tell.


The little cutting tool looks like so.
I have restored it and given it a sharp edge, if it will find a use…


The file might be handy one day, a fine little Japanese saw file.


The way you can see it is a saw file is by the slim profile that are needed to sharpen Japanese saws.


We can't win them all…
These two was after my judgment not to be a part of the final set.
As you can see the top one is bend, and the lower is of doubtful finish.


A crack in the steel on the cutting side will be trouble.


A ferrule that is this open in the joint might be trouble.


A blade where the meeting between the softer top layer of steel and the hard cutting steel under (lamination) is this bad made could be a sign of low quality.


A broken handle could be replaced.
But a ferrule that are made of an extra washer and seem to need love might also be trouble.


And finally a hoop that is broken might break on a good punch.
So I decide that those two chisels will end their story here.


BUT.
A handle that have been shortened for some reason, perhaps wear, is for me just a charm.
A handle that have taken an ugly striped patina, and with a strange gold sticker, this can be fixed.


Two chisels where the wood has been dried out so bad that the surface can be a problem, so perhaps I will need to make new handles.
I actually expected that I needed to make new handles to all of them…


Here you see the wood that are really, really tired.


First step is to clean and sand the four chisels where the wood looks fine, I end with grain 120.
Then stick them in linseed or Danish oil for at least twenty-four hours.


Wipe them of and this is what emerged from the past.
What do you think?
I think beautiful!


Look at the details, the patina and not at least at the name engraved in this handle here.
Do I really need to say more?


Four handles passed the first step - four to go.


Off goes the gold label, I hate stickers even when gold.
Acetone is good for this.
The hoop also goes off (look at my last chisel blog to see how).


Then the handle was sanded down and this left it even uglier, and for sure with stains from rust (probably why the seller had cleaned it so much that the steel shines).
And it is time to dye the thing so that it will blend in with the others, I used three tones, red brown, dark brown and black.


Now time for some sharpening to take a break from the handles.
First step here is a flat back. Yes the Japanese chisels are famous for their hollow backs, but several of these old ones did not have this, and this was another way to read the age of the chisels.
This one had some pits, and as you can see needed some flattening.


Time for serious moves on a sharpening stone, here on my diamond stone (not a good one) since this one takes of some steel quite fast.


As you can see it hollows by the point so it will need a little more, it is especially at the cutting edge it needs to be dead flat.


This is good, flat and ready to go to next grid.


I give it some rubs on sandpaper 600 and then 1200.
This makes it as smooth as I want it.


So here the first six Japanese chisels can get a rest in the little Japanese toolbox I made in Paris a long time ago.
(Perhaps it was written in the stars).


The two bad boys with the dry wood, I decide to try and rescue also, this for the reason that the other handles now are such a beautiful bunch that two new handles could become strangers.
So first I sand of the bad wood in the surface after taking the hoops off.
Then dye the handles a little so the surface becomes homogeneous after the sanding.
Then leave them in linseed oil for another twenty-four hours and cross my fingers.


And this is what rises up from the ashes.
It feels hard and seems strong, so yes I might be lucky.
(Notice I marked the hoops not to mistake up and down).


Cleaning up the inside of the hoop from loose rust.


Here my way of mounting the hoops, I use a piece of pipe to secure an even blow when I gently with a heavy hammer bang it back in place.


Like so, 1-2 mm under the end grain.


And then time to drive the wood out so it holds the hoop.


What do you think?
I sharpened them all in the angles they came except one that was all the way down on nineteen degrees, this one I sharpened to 25 degrees, the others was between 25 and 33. This because I will like to try and use them as they has been used before I change anything.
They all gets really sharp and all seems to hold a good edge, I will get back to this at one point when I have used them for a while.


So here they are, all with their own charms.


I smile!


Gave them all a tour on the buffing wheel with a paste to polish and after one with gloss.
(Just as I do with my knifes).


And I think it is time we send a warm thought to Japan and those guys that have used these chisels, they will be in my mind when I use them, and I thank them for giving them the life that I have now brought back to the surface.


Before we end this blog I need to give them shelter, a place where they can be protected and the edges can stay sharp - a chisel rack.


And this is where they will stand and bring me not only the ability to use them, but also the chance to enjoy their beauty while I work and let my eyes wander over the table.
Yes I am a lucky man - thank you!

Hope this blog can bring some help or inspiration to others that want to play with Japanese chisels, perhaps it will even bring life to some more chisels that seemed to have outlived their life's.

Links:
My Japanese style scraper plane: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/51555
My blog on setting up Japanese planes: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/24608
My post on the chisel rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/49702
Read about the Japanese tools: http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=21

Best thoughts,

Mads
 
#57 ·
Sweet save of some nice chisels. I haven't used any Japanese chisels … yet… so it will be interesting to hear your impressions. It look like that wide one is just a nub but it makes the set look complete. Amazing what a bit of linseed oil can do to wood.
 
#79 ·
Japanese chisel box (urban recycle project) gift...

Japanese chisel box.
Urban recycle project.

Ok he lost it!

This box was actually made as a gift for a very special friends birthday, her name is Lulu, Lulus father is a cabinetmaker and so she grew up with the smell of fresh shaves, she love that smell and for this reason it was for me a must to make her a gift that smelled wood and that was made with my hands.

Is not only a box, it is a little box that are a reproduction of one I made a long time ago and call the Japanese chisel box because it has the right size for storing chisels, and because it is a small copy of the traditional Japanese toolbox.

Urban recycle what is that?
It is an idea that I have a wish, a hope. If we look around us so much are trashed, and in the city the streets are floating with stuff, trash to some, but with the right intentions and a little creativity a lot of this can be reclaimed, we can use what some see as trash and transform it into useful and perhaps even esthetic items.
If the little Japanese chisel box Lulu got is esthetic this I will leave to others, but it is useful and it came from my heart and are now officially urban recycle.


What is he talking about?
A board taken of a pallet in the street, it might come from another country and have had its life transporting goods.
A box for fruit, this one is the standard box for fruit delivery in Denmark and plenty of people put them in the street for trash every week, also shops get fruits in boxes like this, and they are made from a thin three layered plywood or a thin wood, and a fiberboard bottom.


Samples comes out to put it apart.


When the bottom are out you might just do like this to cut it up if you don't need the full length of the wood.
Of course this can be done with a handsaw.


Here is what I ended up with.
The bits and pieces can end in the fireplace if you have one.


So first a cut up to clean the sides up.


And of course I use a Japanese plane to plane the boards, but it is not needed if you do not have a plane.


I also use a no. 7, to set the board straight.
Big boy's big toys, and he is not Japanese.


Now decide the length of the box and cut up one piece of the thin plywood and two pieces of the pallet wood.


Here I clean it up on the table saw so I am sure they are all true.


Put the two sides on top of the bottom and measure the space left, this will be the width of the inside so we can cut of the end pieces in this size, and we also need this measure to make the slide in lid.


Cut the two end pieces.


Ok I'm late for the birthday, so I'll have to wrap it up like this and go!
Lulu will be in a guessing game then, and I will finish it when I come back.
By the way, it was a wonderful birthday party, wonderful people, we had a good time, Lulu seemed to be happy for the day and I left late thinking of a dinosaur walking on a beach but that is a long story that have a hard time leaving my head.


Time to fasten the bottom, for this I use glue and nails.
I chosen some beautiful nails made of copper since the box is for Lulu and she has a strong sense for details, and will be aware that they will grow more and more beautiful as time goes, and also it can add a little femininity.
To make sure the nails will not break the wood I pre drill. This I do with my push drill and drill points (I love the look and the use of that tool).


Time to glue.


Ends also.


Bottom up.
And nails to hold it together. Since it is a Japanese box I go after the rule, as few nails as possible.


Tome to make the lid.
Plywood in the width of the box.


Mark up how wide you want it, it needs a little width to grip the lid.
Cut two of these.


It should look like this.


Glue, even when out of focus…


Pre drill and nails.
Here I use little Miss Debbie to help me (The hammer).


Three on a line.


End looks like this now.
Hope you get the big picture.


For the sliding lid we need some plywood in the width of the box and some in the width of the inside of the box.


Cut of two pieces like this that are in the width of the box.
Now we need focus!
The two pieces must be placed as seen on the picture.
Place the lids end against the one opening.
Tape one small piece to the lid a little distance from the opening.
Tape the other small piece to the other end so it is barely against the other opening.


Now app. double the size of the upper side end and mark it.
(This is not so clear so look at the last picture).


Pre drill.


Glue and nail.


Turn the lid around and bend the nails over.


To close the box put the longest end down inside the box.


Push it to it meets the end and push it down.
Then pull it back and the lid will be 'locked'.


The box is a reality
Time to smoke the pipe.
No! It's time to run again over to Lulu since she just called and invited me for a coffee.


So a light wrap and a handful of shaves inside and off to coffee.
Thank you Lulu.

Perhaps this can inspire to make gifts, make Japanese tool or chisel boxes or even some urban recycle, the choice is yours.

Best thoughts,

Mads
 
#94 ·
Sumitsubo I (Japanese ink pot)

Sumitsubo I
Japanese ink pot.


The Sumitsubo is the Japanese counterpart to our chalk line.
Here a drawing of how I wanted mine to look.

It is used to mark long straight lines on wood, and used together with the sumisashi (pen made of bamboo) the Sumitsubo was traditionally made by the carpenter himself, and where the Japanese tools in general are really simple and free of decoration, the Sumitsubo is usually a carved and even ornamented tool. It origins from China and perhaps this is why it has it's form, or perhaps the Japanese woodworkers just needed this one piece to show his skills to the colleagues since he's other tools were all simple and only the quality and making of the iron in the plane really made it stand out. At least it could provide a young carpenter or apprentice to show his skills and stand out if he could not afford the more expensive tools, but this is just me guessing.

I choose the fish shape because I once saw one with this shape, and found it a elegant and more simple shape than the often seen dragon by the well, and I have a soft spot for the ocean and the fish so it had to be so.

So as so often before this project is made of inexpensive wood, in fact a piece of beech found in my friends firewood pile.


Re sawing the firewood into a fairly straight sided piece of wood.
Just free handing since it will be shaped later.


With a pencil trying to imagine how it could look in plan and side view before I take some final decisions.
As you can see I try to play with different tail shapes, but I usually like to make the final lines in the cut and sanding, to follow and read the life of the wood, and where it want to bring me.
What is important is to make room enough for the wheel and the Ike (ink pot), this to make sure I will not cut or drill too deep later.


Once the shape is there, I mark the center so I am sure it will be relatively equal on both sides.


Could have carved out the holes for the Ike and the wheel but since I am still lazy and only have limited amount of energy a Forstner bit and a drill press comes in handy.
Set the deepness so it will not go deeper than needed, perhaps a little less than needed and then clean up later.


Drilling and the dust control is on (I usually always forget this).
Holes as close to each other as possible without the drill slips.


Larger hole, larger bit.


And the cleanup of the holes.


Now it's getting fun, the first shaping, I use the band saw, and this is probably the moment where you can make the worst mistakes, so keep that tongue straight in the mouth.


And we have a fish!!!
(Or kind of…).


The real shaping starts, I like to use drawknife for rough shaping, spokeshave to close in, rasps and files.


My Supersander as always…
And then just sandpaper.


Thinking of Wayne and rolling out the carving tools.
No plan just that I want it simple and clear since I will color the Sumitsubo later and this will make the lines less visible.


A hole with a long drill for the line.
You can see I did not clean up the drilling marks in the pot and the hole for the wheel - later you will see why.


A dummy string and a dummy wheel to settle with the last design details.


Cutting a piece of wood for the wheel.
My lathe was not set up so it is faster.


And we have a wheel !!!


A hole in the center with an invisible drill…
Pure magic.


On my quick and dirty circle sanding jig I round the wheel.
But you can also do this on your drill press, lathe or even by hand.


And with something under you can even chamfer the edges like this.
If you hold the wood gently against the sandpaper it will spin.


A screw through the wheel and a spin on the drill press - holding a file against the wood.


Then sandpaper.


Now I can drill a hole for the pin for the wheel.


And put the handle through.


I made the handle simply by bending some brass rod , and a small piece of alu tube for the finger part.


We got a Sumitsubo - more or less.
Man I did it!

I will split the blog here for the once that have a slow web.
Press here for next part: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25627

Links:
Japanese carpentry tools museeum:
http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2

Sumitsubo set up and use:
http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458

Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,

Best thoughts,
Mads
 
#109 ·
Sumitsubo II (Japanese ink pot)

Sumitsubo II
Japanese ink pot.

This is part two of the Sumitsubo blog.


This is where we ended last blog.


What I do here might seem destructive to some.
I dye the Sumitsubo black.
Why? Because it will be used with black ink and I then will not have to worry for stains later, and also I think it will be a beautiful contrast to the light colors of the plane bodies.


Color the wheel and smoking the pipe.


Hanging to dry.


Here the handle.


Then some layers of shellac, I think I gave it five.
Adding it with a cloth in thin layers.


And sanding in between.


Last layer.


And here we are.
I banged the rod for the handle a little flat where it was going through the wheel, and put some clay epoxy in the wheel hole before I mounted the handle.
It seems to work.
I don't know about you, but I really like it.


So my 'stuff' arrived from the shop.
Silk line - Tsuboito.
Wadding.
Ink - Sumi, here in the form of chips.
Bamboo Marking Pen - Sumisashi.
(Yes I should have made my own, but I have no source for bamboo - sorry).
I also bought a Japanese square.
(Cord for my frame saws and two extra wheels for Veritas wheel marking gauge).


I rolled up some silk line - Tsuboito, remember that 7-10 meters should be more than enough for most tasks., in fact 3-5 should also do it, and I have 72 meters here so enough for the rest of my life.


On my lathe I turned this little fish shaped Karuko
Added a broken drill bit that I grinded pointed on a running dish sander while it was spinning in an accu drill, but this can also be done with a file on a drill.


Big fish - little fish.


The line is fastened to the fish and then you make a loop around the pin.


Time for the wadding.
App double than the size of the pot.


Make half of it wet and place it in the bottom of the pot.
Let the line run over.


Add ink chips.


The rest of the wadding on top.
Make some ink by grinding some ink shaves and dissolve it in water. (or buy pre made water based ink)
Eating the big fish…


Many ways…


A little water on top.


The ink.


So we are ready to use it.
Put the Karuko in the one end of the wood you want to mark.


Run the line to the other end.
Lift the sting and snap it down.
Then you will have an ink line on the wood.


It can also be used for marking with the Sumisashi just as we would use a pencil.


Ink line (I need more practice or more ink…).
Sumisashi lines.


The square Sashigane is shaped so ink will not get trapped under it (it's rounded up).


And this is where this blog ends.
With a picture of my new Sumitsubo ready for future projects.

For me this has been a really interesting tour in the Japanese world of tools, I will continue, and continue to share it with you.

Links:
Japanese carpentry tools museum:
http://www.dougukan.jp/contents-en/modules/tinyd8/index.php?id=2

Sumitsubo set up and use:
http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/wordpress/?p=458

In use:


Hope this blog can inspire others to make a Sumitsubo, or perhaps just to have been an interesting reading for someone interested in the Japanese tool culture,

Best thoughts,
Mads
 
#121 ·
Sharpening station for water stones the base

Sharpening station
for water stones the base.

I have tried most of the sharpening methods by now, sandpaper, water grinder, oil stones and diamonds, but water stones were still a black page in my book.
At first it was because I had too little knowledge to know what to buy and it was just too expensive to just test and throw away, later because I was kind of happy with my water grinder.
But after i started my journey into the Japanese tools it became clear for me that it was a road I had to take, that I needed to save the bucks for a decent set and then sharpen and hone away, especially freehand with my Japanese tools, but also for a jig with my other cutting tools and finally my kitchen knives freehand once I really master it.

Ok before we even start, water stones, that's kind of a silly name, is it stones or water? - shut up MaFe…


So the postman came with the first parts for my new road.
320 - 1000 - 8000 grid stones, a grid 60 flattening stone and I ordered also a book about the process since the title was so seductive 'in 60 seconds'.


So time to trawl the internet for inspiration, especially Japanese sites and after some serious surfing I was ready to give it a go.


In the meanwhile the postman returned, and I got the rest.

The setup is this:
320 Shapton stone for the rough work, for bringing tools back to shape.
1000 Shapton for sharpening.
3000 Suehiro to have less violent jump in grid and to spend less time honing.
8000 Cerax to finish up and give that mirror polish that we always read about and that I with my water grinder system only has been able to get close to on the cutting edge.
And a couple of artificial Nagura stones to build up the surface on the fine stones.
I choose different brands for different stones after what the brands was known for, and so I choose Shapton stones for the first steps since they are known for being durable and really hard, and this will help to keep them flat longer. Then Suehiro for the fine stones since these are known for being softer and the particles gets finer as you grind and so an 8000 stone should be 2000-3000 grids finer than an equaling water stone of the same grid according to the German experts on DICTUM and their microscopes… They say the 8000 Cerax leaves some of the best mirror polish on the market (so now I have to see if they are right).

Japanese Naniwa flattening stones grid 60 to flatten rough water stones, and 220 for the fine stones.

All this added up to a total of 370 Euro / 500 US dollar (but should last for a life time unless you drop a stone on the floor…).

I also collected some of my other stuff i wanted to fit into the new system.
A diamond stone on wood base.
Cut one of my glass plates into the size of a stone so it could be used with sand paper.
Leather strap glued onto a wood base also to hone with compound - I do this a lot when I use my chisels.
And finally I bought a hardwood floorboard for outdoor use, since this would make me convinced the wood was right for water (I paid eight dollar for a four meter long board, quite fair I think considering how many water stone bases I can make of it).


Ok I had to show you this box, that is pling yes?


The base for the stones.
First I cut the floorboard down to pieces that were longer than the stone, then set the saw for the width of the stone, and split up the board, I was lucky to be able to get to bases from each piece.


Then the table saw was set to a third of the board thickness and a cut was made at the ends of the board.


Like this.
Notice the ling lines in the board, this is due to the fact it was a terrace board for outdoor use.


Then a cut from the end.


Like so.


We now have a base that can hang between to bars.


My table saw said funny noises so I opened it and look what I found… No wonder the shop vac was not so effective…


Change into my router table (homemade router lift for Festool CMS).


Routed out a bit more than the length of the longest stone.


Some more.


And the rest!


Finally I set the miter gauge to four degrees.


And made a cut at the one end just where the routing ended.


With a chisel paring out the rest.


Can you guess why?


A block of wood is cut in two by a four degree cut.


And we got us a wedge!


Repeat…


Cut to length.


The base needs some shaping.
First a cut at the ends to form a slope, in this way your hands are free and water will run down the slope.


Then a water stop, later you will see why.


To make the water run of I also added a cut on the sides under where there were none.
Left board none, right an extra cut (the splinter in the wood was made when I cut the board in two…).


To not get all messed up, I decided to mark the bases and the wedges with the matching stone, in this way I can also grasp the right stone when they will be on a shelf.


A little fine family.


Do I need to say oil?


Lin seed oil.
And this is where we finish the bases, as they suck plenty of oil.

I will split the blog up here, in next part I will make the box, holder or pond if you will and the system will be a reality.

Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,

Best thoughts,
Mads
 
#122 ·
That's a great tip about the wedge. I was wondering how you hold the stone to the wood until you showed the wedge.

you are going to have some serious muscles on your forarm if you sharpen all your tool collection…

Thanks for the wonderfull post.
 
#136 ·
Seems as if you always manage to keep prodding us to revisit to "old but true" ways of doing things. I have some Brazilian walnut that would make some nice bases if you'll come by the shop, we'll have a beer and make a few. Then you can show me how to do this.

Perhaps it is better if the beer comes after!!!!!!!!
 
#138 ·
Sharpening station for water stones the pond

Sharpening station
for water stones the pond.

This is part two of the Japanese sharpening station blog.

Today no 'funny' comments…


Sometime ago I brought home a pallet, pine, it was as good as new.
I cut it up into short boards thinking I could use it for small boxes or so one day.
Now was the day for some of that wood to meet its second life.


First the boards were flattened, and the clamped together and planned to make them the same height.
(The drawing in the back is still not for this blog).


A wonderful pile of shaves and a pipe of nice tobacco later.


Time for making a layout, I design as I go on this one, something with tenons that go through and are held together with wedges, simple, strong collapsible and Japanese inspired.


It was also on this day my wonderful Stanley 48 arrived, so the smile is big in the little workshop.


Saw the tenon.
First a cut with a knife in the line, and then cut on the waste side.


As you see I leave a wee bit. (Love that word Jamie).


And then pare it after, this part I love more and more.
(I hated that before I learned to sharpen a chisel to a razor edge).


Freehand chamfer a little so the edges will not brake later and to enhance the Asian look.


Now I can mark up for the mortise.
With a marking knife (I know a few LJ's that have one now, the one I use here is Korean).
As close to the tenon as possible.


My cutting gauge is used to make some deep cuts into the soft pine.


Then the ends are freehanded.
(I cut too long on purpose since I want that handmade look to it).


Since I am lazy and have a limited strength due to my health I drill a series of holes so I need to chisel less out.


And after a little chiseling the mortise and tenon is fitted.
I use Japanese chisels for chopping and English for the paring.


Now we have a box!
The top of the inside in the box is chamfered again to make the water stay in the right place.
To hold the stone bases in the box I mount some hardwood pieces in each end, this to keep the water away from the pine, and hardwood because it withstands the water better.
(This is by the way the arms of an old wood parasol, more recycle).


With the little wonderful Record 43 plane I make a groove in the two sides of the box. I can't help loving this plane, it is so easy and so fast.


When I went out with the trash someone had put an old coffee tray for trash so I changed my original plan that was some boards in the bottom and cut the tray up to fit and then made an angled cut in the sides to fit the grooves.


Here we are after a little sanding.
The tray will give ventilation for the box so it will not rot.


To try something new I cut a round hole for the wedges.


And then use round stock for wedges also.
(The round stock is from an old baby bed that was trashed - yes it is the truth).


I fasten the hardwood with brass screws, even this is not especially Asian style… But I know they will stand the water and it does look kind of elegant with the hardwood so I am pleased.
On the back of the hardwood you can see there are made a number of cross cuts, this again for the water to be able to run away and not get trapped.
(Yes I'm an architect - laugh.).


So here we have a sharpening station.
I also made a little Japanese style hammer for the wedges.


And the second reason for the size is this - the stone bases fit inside.


Ok I spoke a lot about water…
First my plan was a plastic tray inside, but when the box had become so elegant I thought it would not be possible.
So I went off to our local metal junk yard and paid two dollar for some pieces of Rhein-zink.
(It took me more than an hour in the junk piles to find these, usually there are tons of this, but of course on that day it was all gone for melting, but I managed at the end and could add more recycle to my project).


So careful marking with a scriber.


From one side I cut into the corner and in the other side I leave a little piece.


Since I have no bending machine, I need to be a little creative.


And with a hammer I can make the bend quite sharp.


For the sides I cut a piece of wood to fit inside and clamp another on top, in this way it becomes possible.


The corners are bended in with a hammer on a piece of wood.


Test fitting the pond - it fits!


Since I have no soldering iron I use a torch on lowest blow and this works ok even it is difficult not to overheat.


So not the most beautiful soldering, but I think it holds water.


The big test!
Not a drop comes out, so I can sit back and relax over some good tobacco in my pipe (I never inhale by the way).


Sesam Sesam open up.


The pond in place so now water will stay inside.


A ceramic tray and a sharpening stone…
The stone was just for beauty and hopefully for you to smile.


Three stones can soak in this and the water will be esy to change.
I think it all starts to make sense, and I feel a harmony.


That's it!
No still something is missing!!!


Yes now I am happy!
And with this picture the blog ends, and hopefully I will get sharp irons for many years to come.

Thank you for watching.

Hope this blog and this blog series can inspire others to look into the wonders of the Japanese tools and way of thinking,

Best thoughts,
Mads
 
#165 ·
Japanese planing board / Japanese workbench

Japanese planing board
Japanese workbench

Ok as promised I will continue the Japanese blog series.
It all started by me reading Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use', and now since I have moved to a new location where I at least for a while will have no workshop, the story will continue since I plan on using Japanese tools and methods in the meantime.

Get started MaFe.

So to work with my Japanese tools, I needed Japanese 'set up', a bench… hmmmm… they did not use workbenches… ok what then? A beam, some horses and a planing board!

Before I start I have to admit this blog is not as detailed as usual, I simply enjoyed my time so much that I forgot to take photos, but I will try to tell what has happened and how it was made so it will be possible to build one if wanted (please forgive me).


So this is where it started, as often before a drawing - this time with a little watercolor also.
I had a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob), so I decided to keep the shape of the rafter as a memory and thought it will give a little 'edge' to the design.


We step right in where I check the board's flatness with a set of winding sticks, after I have cut the rafter to length, made two legs that are mounted with sliding dovetails.
The legs keep the board of the ground and it adds stability to the board.
(If you have a really thick board / beam you do not need the legs).


Then I marked the high spots, and started a work out with a scrub plane (Scandinavian model).
Since the board was not straight at all it really needed some work, but it was good exorcise for me.


The longest plane I have is a no.8 Stanley, so it was put to service for the next phase of making the board dead flat and straight and once it took shaves at every spot it was time to move on.


Now finally for Japanese plane to smooth up the surface.
I ran it skewed to the wood and made the shaves thinner and thinner as I went.


Here the three planes and their shaves.
Scandinavian, American, Japanese union.


Next I wanted a 90 degree angel in the one end to make a shooting board function in this narrow end.
More of this later.


And marked up with my line.
(This time I was trying some new black color powder that was used in the old days by boat builders but showed up to be a disaster… it stuck to everything and I even needed to sand down my table after… learning by doing).


At the wide end of the board I just wanted a planing stop that also should be mounted in a sliding dovetail so it can be easily removed and changed.


Here is the idea, a stop and a bar mounted on the side of the board to make a shooting board function.
Perhaps foolish to mix but I want to try…


This is the idea.
(And the fast viewer will see something is wrong…).

From this point I forgot to take photos again, but to make the sliding dovetails you can either just cut them with your Japanese saw, plane them out, use a router or like I did a table saw and a plunge cut saw on rails.
.


So here we are, the first shaves made on the board.


Yes I took it to the garden.
To smell nature and wood mix.
And used now my Sumitsubo for marking lines with ink and no more ancient powder…


From another view (snail cam).


And here MaFe making shaves with the Japanese sun behind.


Long beautiful shaves.


The stop works excellent.


The shooting board function is fine too - but…
I made it for push action and not for pull like the Japanese planes am used…
Tough luck MaFe.


But it works fine, and for the little I use it I'm sure it will do for now.


Straight end!


This is it.


I think it is a simple yet effective and beautiful workbench and I'm sure it will serve me well.


Need I say more?


In fact I found it so beautiful that it moved into my living room.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.





Here videos to inspire, in this you will see an old Japanese carpenter using traditional methods and tools and the board in use.

Links:

Japanese using a planing board:

Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false

Best thoughts,

Mads
 
#198 ·
Japanese saw horses - floor horses (blog)

Japanese saw horses
floor horses

This time low saw horses, these are for Japanese woodworking, and so they are meant to keep the items in good position for sitting work and for bend, standing jobs like rip cut with a Japanese saw.



Once more a roof rafter that a friend gave me nice thick wood and wide also, the same as I used for my shaving horse (thank you Jakob).
First step is to mark up careful with pen and Sashigane (Japanese square).
And do not forget a cold beer….


Now since I don't have any saw horses I use my power tools (perhaps also I was lazy or tired but do not tell that to the rest of LJ…).
(Some can see I also work on a different Japanese project at that time, but we will get back to that - others notice something for smoking).


Then I clean up the beams, since they need to get the final size.


Before and after Japanese plane.


Some ornamentation is tradition on the feet.


Now drill a hole all the way through.


Some more drawing and adding the size of the beams now.


Two cuts with a Japanese saw and some clean up - do not ask why I used English chisels and not Japanese…


Mark carefully what leg belongs where for perfect fit.


Do you get the idea?


Then drill from the bottom down through the beams, app half way or so.
(The detail will come later).


Ok I was lazy…


And cleaned up again.


To make the feet stand good on the floor without rocking we need some shape to give them more points to stand on.
This I did by clamping them together and drill two round holes, half to each side.
(Notice the beautiful Japanese clamps).


Shaping the shoulders.
Of course it could have been done by hand.


Getting closer.


Help…


Clean up.


More clean up, this time planing the faces of the feet.
(Sounds kind of stupid… faces of feet… feet's have toes, not faces!).


Making some dowels for the feet.
This will make the feet and beams connect really strong.


Glue them in.
I rounded then a little so they are easier to stick into the beam after.


I also drilled a hole and added a bamboo stick through to secure the dowel.


And cut it of flush.


Finally some visual permanent marks to pare the feet and beams.


Here we are Japanese saw horses.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

Links:
Tools from Japan: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=5
Popular science 1967: http://books.google.com/books?id=CSEDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA138&lpg=PA138&dq=holding+a+japanese+kanna&source=bl&ots=RmhOU8AEM3&sig=lwDdDHI-nKp3JZVTI438ToM8cFI&hl=da&ei=q-0xTsnZIoKh-QblkJiXDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CGwQ6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=holding%20a%20japanese%20kanna&f=false
Jims version of the horses: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/68231 with stops.

Best thoughts,

Mads
 
#216 ·
Japanese toolbox - thoughts

Japanese toolbox
大工の道具箱

I have been looking forward for a while to make this blog, this because the result is one of my favorite woodworking projects, it was like a sum of skills leaned and also a design and history challenge that I enjoyed.
The result is something I am proud of and that I think will stay with me for as long as I live.


At first I made this small one out of trash wood in Paris, meant for chisels.

Later another as a gift for a friend http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/25015 .

But after I read Toshio Odate's book 'Japanese woodworking tools their tradition spirit and use' I knew I needed to make myself a real traditional Japanese toolbox one day.

The first part here will be my thoughts about and pictures of Japanese toolboxes.
Or in other words why I ended up with the design that I did.

So sit back and enjoy.


One of the first pictures I ran into was this one, and it did confuse me…
This does not seem to be a traditional toolbox and the tools don't seem to be Japanese…
The frame saw is used in China and Europe, the handsaw seems English!
So why do I show this picture?
To say that the research that I have been able to do is at the web and few books, this do not make a really well documented truth. Writers was perhaps not even woodworkers and even we have an old black and white photo showing someone with a saw, we can't know if this is traditional or not.
The only interesting thing I can conclude from this picture is that the toolbox even the design is different seems to be quite simple and made from cheap wood to transport tools inside.


This picture shows a standard transport box, I think Japanese, but notice the design.
My guess will be that the traditional Japanese toolbox was made this way, that the inspiration came from this.
A simple low priced, fast to make transport box.


Here a later military one, now added hardware for strength.


The inside, elegant.


So finally!
A classic example of the Japanese toolbox.
Pine for low price.
Nails for fast making.
Handles for carry.
Thin wood for light weight (low price).
The simple lid that locks without hardware (low price).
So these are my first conclusions, this because I believe you made your toolbox as young apprentice and so did not have money for something fancy, but also since the Japanese do not value things like we do, they have an approach that are more simple and yet much more sophisticated - you have to earn your status by proving you worth a tool. So a young starter will not go and buy the whole Lie Nielsen set if he had the money, he would buy his tools as needed, when needed and then upgrade as his skills improve. I believe some of us could learn quite a lot from this…


This one with a drawer.


This one I think is really classy, I like the long slim design.
Notice feet, handles with shape and that the bottom boards are sideways (not normal).


Slim and simple.


Larger, double drawers with lock.


New use…


Absolutely charming!


How can you not love this.
If you hire this guy you will know you get a fair price - not like the one in a Van full of Festool power tools…


At work.
The box is used as a holder for the planes.


Or to store them.


Much like a traditional Scandinavian as here.
Quite amazing in a way.


The closest I get to a historical proof…
But quite an interesting museum, hope one day to make savings and go to Japan.
Takenaka Carpentry Tools Museum:
http://dougukan.jp/contents-en/


Here from another museum, notice the ends are jointed with a big 'finger joint'.


Not so elegant, but a good guess on how it should look today.
Screwed and nailed together, a mix of woods and plywood, fast low price and solid.
Perhaps the finger joints are a little overkill, but since it is from a school it is probably to learn.
Japanese woodworking school.
http://b-log-b-log.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2300758805-1


This might be a commercial for the green boxes, but it shows the simple and different types of toolboxes.


Back to the future…
This is where we are today - nice legs.


This might for me be a good proposal for a modern woodworker toolbox.
Lightweight, cheap, waterproof and easy to transport.
(Don't remember where I saw this, sorry).


And this is a Festool insert - in this way you get both…


But back to our friend.
Back to the traditional toolbox.


Found this beginner set on a Japanese site.
And yes it is probably all we need to get started.


Here first day at a Japanese woodworker school.


And the basic tool set.
I can almost imagine how proud the young guy must be.


And here we start, making traditional toolboxes.
Pictures from school with students and then the set and box
http://miyadaiku.hamazo.tv/c536143_6.html


The result - elegant!


And later one for plane storage.



Here my conclusion:
Low price light weight wood: pine.
Thin planed boards for low weight.
No hardware.
Size that I can easy carry.
Proportions slim for elegancy.
A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.


This video is what made me want to take the extra challenge, to put some traditional cabinetmaking details into my box, and to make the drawer after these principals.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

Links:
Here an interesting one with different types and plenty of inspiration:
http://www.daikudojo.org/Classes/toolboxes/

Best thoughts,

Mads
 
#252 ·
Japanese toolbox - making the basic box

Japanese toolbox
大工の道具箱


As I wrote in the first part - I have been looking forward to make this blog, so here we go.

My conclusion was:
Low price light weight wood: pine.
Thin planed boards for low weight.
No hardware.
Size that I can easy carry.
Proportions slim for elegancy.
A drawer for small things, and for giving myself a challenge of traditional Japanese drawer making.
Finally I choose to buy a bag of bamboo nails, this to try the traditional way, for beauty and again for giving myself a challenge - this I know is not traditional at all.

And for the dimensions 72cm long x 25cm wide x 20cm high, I think this gave some elegant proportions, but do as you want or as your wood commands you.
The boards are planed down to 0,8cm / 0,3inches thick this gives a light box to carry (it is more than enough).


Just found this drawing I made in one of my sketchbooks.

For the marking:
The bottom is the full width and length of the box (the box stands on it).
The sides full length.
The lid fits in between the sides so it is the width minus the two side's thickness.
The rest is clear to see on the drawing.


The wood.
Pine.
As usual a recycle project, this time an old down hung celling, boards left in the street and picked up for later use - now.


First I cut them to width on both sides.


This is what I came up with…


Then I needed to add more electricity to be able to use the planer / thicknesser app same model as this.
Yes a wood nerd needs to do electricity too…


Wood is waiting MaFe…


And just a little time to make a planer knife setup tool also.


And this is what it ended up with.
Look at all those shaves for so little wood, a shame we can't make our own MDF…
But at least now some fine boards for free.


Now time to see what we got and plan out the layout and size of the box after the wood.


I carefully mark the boards for sides, lid and so.


Now back to the work of the hand.
I plan the boards for the glue up.


To make sure the whole length is good you can mark with a pen.


Then plan and see when it's all gone.


Like so.


And the pen marks you will find in the shaves.


Lots of shaves - I love it!


Glue the sides and clamp up, here with Japanese clamps.


Boards for one side.


Small wood spacers to avoid marks from the clamps, and pressure.


Once dry it's time for marking up the final sizes.


And cut to length.
I try first with a Japanese saw since I want to do as much as possible by hand but my health as usual makes me need to use power tools for a large part. (Spinal neck operation that was no success).


Before I saw I score the cut with a marking knife to avoid tear out.


Hand cut.


Circular saw.


First impressions…


It might be a box success…
(Ok you are not funny MaFe).


Ends - sides - bottom - top ends and battens for the lid.


The oversized lid is put on top, and then I mark up the top end and app. an inch extra on each side, so that the batten is one inch from the top side part.


Other end an inch extra too, but here the batten is flush to the top part.


Now cut of one end.


And other end, this will make it possible to open and lock the box.


This is where we are now.
With some nails we could have a finished toolbox in a few moments.

I will split the blog here and continue soon.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

Best thoughts,

Mads
 
#287 ·
Japanese toolbox - drawer, making the wood drawer lock

Japanese toolbox
大工の道具箱

Here we are part two of the build.
Last blog we made the basic box parts, now it's time for handles, drawer and another little challenge.


This was where we left last blog, the basic box.


Ok a piece of wood same as the box for the handles.


And some spacers also.
(This time cutting on a German saw).


Gluing spacers to the back of the handles.


Clamps, clamps and clamps…
Gluing the batterns to the lid and spacers to the handles.


Top and end for the drawer box inside is cut to size.


Time for another drawing.
I looked at the cabinet maker video and made a drawing for the drawer that follows this approach.


As you can see now, the drawer 'box' is inside the box.
And parts are cut for the drawer.


First I cut a little drawer lock.


But after discovering a wonderful dark knot in the drawer front I got inspired while drilling it out.
To make an all wood drawer lock.
An extra challenge, jubiiiii.


Back to the drawing board.
Sketching different types and choosing as always the most simple - less IS more.


Here my final drawing of the lock, I actually made this after making the lock, since I build as I meet the troubles.
But I think it gives a good picture here before we go on.


Marking.


Homemade tools, my carvers mallet, my cutting gauge and a rehandled mortise chisel - this makes me smile.
Mark up, cut and clean out for the lock.
An apple a day keeps the doctor away.


Parts for the lock - more to come.


Harder wood, this is a gift from my friend Div (who is silent these days).
In this way there are also some love and personality build in, thank you Div


Do you get the picture?
Lock cam.


Making the lock cam move.


Fitting the lock cam after mounting the arm / handle.


More parts, now a kind of washer.


More clean out for the final fit.


And some grease from the grease box to make the lock run smooth.


Here we are!
All the lock parts.
Do not worry it will make sense soon.


In goes the lock cam.


Then the arm / handle.
Notice the little hole I added.


Spacers for a smooth ride.


The washer.


And a mini wedge with a small notch.


So it locks it all together elegantly.
The rest is just to cut the arm to length.


Marking for the mortise for the lock in the part over the drawer.


Chisel away…


This looks like a lock to me.


Yabadabadoooooo


Now the handles can be glued on to the end pieces.


Clamped.


So time for some Japanese cabinet making after this little drawer lock game.
Marking and cutting the rabbet for the drawer front.


Marking the thickness of the drawer bottom.


The cutting gauge works fine for this task, but I will need to make me one in Japanese style one day.


I saw down through the grain to avoid tear out.


And then cut with a chisel.


Along the grain I can use the gauge and a chisel, no need for sawing.
(Notice I use my restored Japanese chisels, this is a joy).


And so we have the front ready.



Here you can see the work place in my living room with the Japanese planing board, but I will get back to this later.

I will split the blog here and continue soon.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

Best thoughts,

Mads
 
#316 ·
Japanese toolbox - finish drawer, wood nails and final details.

Japanese toolbox
大工の道具箱

Here we are part three of the build.
Last blog we made the drawer lock parts and other stuff, now it's time for drawer parts and the nailing of the box.


This was where we left last, right there on the floor.


Drawer parts ready, front with wood lock made.


And here is the drawing I made for the drawer, following traditional Japanese cabinetmaker ways.


The drawer back gets its rabbet.
And I get to test my Veritas mini shoulder plane (it works fantastic).


Marking, app 3 parts.


Score with the knife.


Cutting the joint.


Chopping out the wood.


Paring the rest.


Neat…


Marking the sides now, using the back to make sure we get that tight fit.


Like this!


Saw and pare.


And we got some decent fits.


And so we actually have a drawer now.
And I am happy for my knob lock.


The handles need a little work to become more comfortable to carry.


So I round them with a chisel and a knife, but just on the hidden inside.


Ok this is not wood but fun.
My new Japanese square was just too big to fit in the box…
So I had to cut it!
Measure once - cut your square…


Now it fits.


So here we are back to the working area.
Now with a set of Japanese saw horses to rest the toolbox on while nailing it together.


I know that traditionally the toolboxes are nailed with cheap black nails, but I decided for beauty and for the carpentry learning to go for Moku Kugi (melawis wood) nails. Before buying them I thought they were made from bamboo.
These are quite expensive on this side of the world so others who want to do the same - go and buy BBQ sticks and a pencil sharpener and make your own.
(You can buy them in Germany: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/717310/Japanese-Precision-Wooden-Nails-Moku-Kugi-300-units.htm ).
As you see I mark carefully with a Japanese bamboo ruler and make sure that there are at least two nails in each board the pieces are made from.
This for maximum strength and beauty.


The drill is made for the nails and are tapered.
Notice that I change direction on the holes to make them wedge in, this box will last forever.


And in goes the wood nail.


Porcupine…


And the drawer too.
This time I drill with a traditional Japanese kiri hand drill, they are surprisingly effective.
(I will blog about these in a later blog).


This should do.


Once glued in the nails are cut off.


Here you can get a look at my work set up.
Notice the shoes…


And the bird.


So back to work.
The box with the 'lid' and back for the drawer.


Plenty of white glue.


Also on each of the nails.


And here upside down before nailing the bottom to the box.


In the inside of the box I cut out a square of wood to hold some cross bars.
And these are made so they can be taken out easy.


Like this.


Here looking down the box.
The cross bars are at the same height as the drawer 'lid' in this way it is like a second level of the box.


I also create some hangers that can be put on the tool box lid when the box is open.


And a little fixture that locks the lid to the box when open.


This gives me a small board for hanging the saws and other stuff
As you can see the Japanese planes are traditionally hanging on the side of the box.


That's it!
My Japanese tool box, and work space.
A little portable work shop.



The end of the tool box blog.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

Best thoughts,

Mads
 
#367 ·
Japanese woodworking videos - just for inspiration

Japanese woodworking videos
Just for inspiration

Here some of the most interesting videos I ran into on my YouTube searches.
Please feel free to post more in the comments if you have some of interest.


My favorite Japanese cabinetmaker.
Tools, floor, workbench.

Cabinetmaker:
How to flatten a board with a kanna.


Japanese box maker:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qYq4aHoLSU4

Japanese carver.
Mini kanna.


Japanese carver.
With his chisels.


Japanese cabinetmaking.
Milling, heat shape, the magic fit drawer.


Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.


Japanese woodworker using the traditional yari kanna.


Japanese teacher shows how to set up a kanna.
Mini saw horses.


Japanese woodworker making magic shaves and show how to use the body.
Spoke shaves and the xxx kanna.


Flattening a big slap.
Notice the wall behind…


Japanese using the traditional axe.


Japanese using the traditional axe.
Notice the dance of the feet.


Japanese marking.
Ink pot and pen.


Cabinetmakers.


Bamboo bow.


Bamboo patience…


Bamboo more…


Cool carpenter with his kanna.
Long beam.


Amazing cabinetmaker.


Amazing cabinet maker:


A chest of drawers.


Cabinetmaker.
All process and heat bend method.


Cabinetmaker.
many details.


Cabinet finish surfacer.


Wood nails in use.
Fantastic workshop.


Cabinetmaker.


Knife sheath maker wood.


Finish and hardware.


Cabinetmaker.


Drawer.
Method I used for the Japanese tool box.


Japanese shooting board.
Nice details, workshop ways and more.


Inlay.


Curtain maker.


Cabinetmaker.
Wonderful, making a small cabinet of drawers.


Alternative lathe…


Japanese shooting board.


Update 14072012

Japanese guy sharpening and hammering out a kanna blade:


Hammering the kanna blade:


Making a kanna body:


Sharpening:


Making an axe:


Wonderful video on how to make cabinet, notice the wonderful old men making dovetails.


Using a planing board:
http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/30030

Mixed:


As said I hope it can bring some inspiration and perhaps some respect also for these masters,

Best thoughts,

Mads
 
#391 ·
Japanese tool tray - for the toolbox. (blog)

Japanese tool tray
for the new toolbox

To complete the setup for working with Japanese tools I wanted a little tool tray that I could use to hold and carry tools while working, especially to keep the chisels off the ground.

I decided it should be made so it could be stored and transported in the toolbox when not in use, that it should be made with the same joinery as the drawer and again no hardware.
For the beauty and the joy of the eye I wanted a handle made of a branch like I have on my tool tote , so first step was a walk in the forest.


Here a drawing of what I was aiming for.


As some of you know I need (and enjoy) help of power tools so first step is a little tour at the table saw to cut roughly to size.
First a sheet of thin board for the bottom.


Then some scrap from the toolbox is cut to the right board size and the four sides to length.


Now time for some marking.
Setting the gauge for the board thickness.


Marking the finger joints.


Dividing into three.


And some smoke.


Marking the waste.


Cutting the shoulder.


With a cutting gauge I go quite deep to make a crisp shoulder.


Then the waste can be removed quite fast and rough.


Cleaning the sides.


For this the Japanese chisels hollow back is not the best for guiding compared to my English cabinetmakers chisels.


But it's just wood.


And quite fast it's done.


Now check the shoulders, to determine where to go on the line.


I saw a bit off the line so I can pare myself to a perfect fit after.
If it was hardwood I would go closer.


Other side.


Time to hone those English cabinetmakers chisels.


And pare the joint.


That's a fine fit.


So fine that it can stay together in the air with no glue.


Next step is the groove for the bottom.
Since I did not have a Japanese plough plane for this task I used my Record.


This is how the Japanese version looks, I bought some after, that I now look forward to set up and make some shaves with.


Cutting the grooves.


Nice and crisp - I do love the 43.


And for the stopped grooves I fist cut the end point so I know where to stop and the wood will not tear this way.


And a little clean up.


Grooves!


This is why it need to be stopped.
Otherwise you would be able to see the groove come out through the end.


Bottom is cut to size.


Glue time!
Sounds like a jazzy thing…


Make sure to get it all over.
Not all over you and the table…


Clamping.
And in the tray you now see some pieces of wood that I have cut to make some dividers.


I cut a groove on the table saw.


Looking like dividers.
But a little thick so I will plane them down.


Now for the handle.


And I make a round tenon joint for the branch handle, with a cross pin


And the handle is made detachable and fitted into the tray side.


A JAPANESE INSPIRED TOOL TRAY.


That fits into the toolbox.


Like so.


And you can play with…
Do not ask me why…


Now ready to help me carry and take care of my tools.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

Best thoughts,

Mads
 
#406 ·
Japanese toolbox - update.

Japanese toolbox - update
大工の道具箱

Just a little update for the toolbox part.
A few people asked how the lid worked, so here pictures, and others asked where Shave has gone to these days, and this will be answered also, along with a few other details.


Here you see the box with the lid open, and the hangers in action.
I cut the video clip so it could not be seen sorry.


I had a mushroom I have turned on the late some time back and this became a wonderful organic hanger.
Just a strong leather sting to hang the board.


The bucket I made with Mike has become a beautiful match and are used for storage.


Lid closed, note the gap on the right side.
The lid is simply pushed this way and then opens.


And all the tools are ready to use.


My man Shave, he is fine.
He moved into a bookcase until I find a new workshop.
As you can see he 'hang' out here.


Those of you who saw the video saw my Japanese Kimono, it is a vintage Kimono I bought from Japan, 70 years old silk, a treasure and a pleasure to wear.
Here the letter I got from the seller, along with a little origami crane.
This touched my heart.


And here it is put in my sketch book.
Some of you know I folded more than 1000 cranes, the first 1000 for good luck before my big operation, so he could not have chosen someone better to send this.


The video Grizz is asking for is still in the blog, put here it comes again…


My latest Japanese tool post, plane wrap from leather to protect the blade.

The end of the tool box update blog.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods.

I want to send a special warm thought to Toshio Odate, thank you for inspire ring me with your book, but most of all my sister who offered me my Japanese chisels and a Kanna that was the reason why this interest started.

Best thoughts,

Mads
 
#441 ·
Japanese cutting gauge

Japanese cutting gauge
by mafe'san

So we are back on the Japanese road.
I decided that on the day of New Year's Eve I needed to make and finish a little wood project that would make me smile.


Here first a drawing I made the night before and then made it after.


This blog starts here.
A wonderful piece of wood from our LJ friend Jusfine Randy.
And not just a piece of wood but also a little message on it for me.
Here you can read about the gift story.
Thank you Randy, and a happy new year to you and the family.


Up on the workbench where wood is supposed to be!


Marking up the basic layout.
I want a cutting gauge, wedge locking and using standard Stanley knife blades.


I predrill a series of holes with a kiri (I will tell more about this in another blog).


A quite effective Japanese hand drill.


So time for playing with Japanese tools.


Basically just shy of the final size, removing wood as fast as possible, while enjoying the time.


Like this.
I prefer to take half from each side and hope by careful marking to reach dead on.


And finally like so.


Time to separate the tool from the wood.
I like to use a back saw for the initial cut (this time more than plenty).


Then time for a rip saw - the rough side of the blade.


And the final cross cut.


Then I make a few cuts to define the basic shape.


This is close enough before the chisel.


Marking up for the blade arm.
making a good deep marking on both sides so the saw have a guide.


And rip away.


Time to unwrap a plane.


And make some shaves.


And chamfer the edges.


To make the body nice to hold and beautiful to look at I round the top.


Here we have the basics ready.


Time to make a wedge.


A series of cuts always make it easier to use the chisel without tear out.


Shaping with the chisel.


And cutting of the wedge.


Thickness is adjusted shave by shave.


Until there is a good fit.


Each end of the wedge has a surface for the push locking.


Again I play with my kiri, love this tool.


Brake of some Stanley blades.


Sawing a slice for the blade with a coping saw (perhaps not so Japanese…).


Here it is!


The blade exposed.


The final touch is my logo burned into the end of the cutting gauge.


Time to test.
Some deep cuts into e piece of wood.


The Japanese break the wood with a hammer once the cutting is done on both sides.


Yes! It Works justfine!


Then just cleaning the split and all is fine.


Finally a picture of the new cutting gauge, another homemade tool for my tool box.

Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools and work methods, who knows maybe a new year's wish.

Best thoughts and a happy new year,

Mads
 
#459 ·
Kiri hand drill (gimlet)

Kiri hand drill
Japanese gimlet

In my last blog I used a kiri and promised to make a post on this.
Quite some time ago I actually made the pictures for the blog so here it finally is.
It is a mix between info on the types, photos of mine and finally how to make a simple DIY Western version.

I have to warn you, you can get really sour hands using this tool until your hands are used to it.


Here you see the kiri's I have in my tool box, a mix of new, old and self-made.


I can't remember where I got this photo, but it shows the different types of Kiri.
Momi-giri means hand gimlets.
kiris from left:
Mitsume-kiri, and has a head and three sides.
Used to make small deep holes, for screws or nails.
Youtsume-kiri, Tapered holes for wood nails.
Tsubo-giri, pot gimlet, for making holes for dowels and so.
Nezumi-ba-kiri, mouse teeth gimlet, also good for dowel holes or deeper holes in general.
(Thank you Toshio Odate).


So to make your own simple kiri-mafe'san you need to make a handle.
I use some beech wood.


With a gauge I make it tapered.


And sand it for a smooth but not shiny surface, we still want some grip after.


Here we got two of them finished.


And my mafe is burned into the handle.


Now I take a standard drill bit and make the end two sided is it will get a grip.


Then drill a hole in the thick end of the handle fill it with epoxy glue and put the drill bit in with a gentle hard pressure so that the pointed end will cut into the handle.
On the picture you can see a hole made with this, it works just fine.


And here some of my kiri's.


I think the new version blend in fine.


Originally they have a ferule hammered into the shaft.


Finally one in use.

Hope this can bring some inspiration to others that play with Japanese tools.

Best thoughts and a happy new year,

Mads
 
#471 ·
Japan meets Krenov - MaFe style Kanna jointer (Handplane).

MaFe style Kanna jointer
Japan meets Krenov

For quite some time now I have had three wishes that I wanted to fulfill in one project.
1. To have a Japanese Naga-Dai-Kanna (jointer plane).
2. To combine the Krenov plane building style with Japanese planes.
3. To find use of a beautiful old hand forged Japanese plane iron that I had purchased some time back.


Here an example of a Japanese jointer plane I saw on E-bay.
On this link a seller in Germany, I think the price tag huts a wee bit: http://www.fine-tools.com/jhobm.htm


So here the plan, a small sketch in my little book.
The Japanese plane is different from the Western planes in several ways:
The iron is place in the other end, this due to the fact that you pull the plane.
The iron is wedge shaped and so it holds itself into the plane body.
The cap iron is also holding itself, but this is due to the fact that the top corners are bend and a pin is put through the body. that the cap iron wedge against. ( I have a theory that the reason for this design, is due to the fact that it was relatively late that the Japanese used Cap irons and so it has been retro fitted to existing planes and ways of building.


The story starts here.
I got a beautiful old iron and cap iron from Japan, these waited a couple of years in the drawer.


As you can see there are plenty of iron left, but it has been used.


So I filed of the edge that had bent over from beating.


Like so.


The same for the cap iron.
Look at those fine old stamps from the maker.


Inside out.
Notice the old hammer marks from someone adjusting it.


Ok here it starts, with a cut!
In my wonderful friend Jamies work shop in Scotland, where I was to visit him.
The reason I brought the iron, was that I knew Jamie had one also and so I had a plan that we could work on this project together, while I was there. But Jamie got sick, so I spend the last day alone in the shop working on this project.
Jamie had said to me that 'there are plenty of oak' so I could pick what ever piece I wanted, and so I found myself a good piece, with a good density.


Thank you Jamie, I look forward now to create a useful tool from this wood.


Since I was in Jamies shop, I decided to use some of his wonderful tools, first the thickness planner and then the jointer. (Love these old heavy jointers).
In this way I knew I had the base lined up.


After reading in a Japanese book (on the left and to be read backwards) I was feeling confident to start cutting up the oak.
I cut it up in five slices. Sides, iron wedging and finally center bed.
The center and the two wedging sides together should match the widest part of the iron.
The cap iron should fit in between the two wedging sides.
(Look at later photos).


Marking up the place where I want the iron and in this way making a reference line between the parts.
(Jamie you might notice something here).


And marking up how I want the blade, remember that the blade is wedge shaped so you have to use the angle on the top of the blade or subtract the blade angle from the bed angle.
I just took 45 and then put the blade on top, in this way I end up on 47-48 degree in this way I make a plane that will work on hardwoods also.
I also choose 45 degrees for the opening, in this way it will be easy to clean up shaves, but some prefer a steeper angle, I have seen Japanese planes in all angles.


So time to cut.
Basically three cuts, two 45 degrees and one vertical, I start with the vertical.
The vertical cut gives a stronger edge and allows for some adjustment of the sole later.
Here with Jamies wonderful saw, again a favorite of mine.


The good old Dewalt.


Shut up and cut MaFe.


The next cut I made on the table saw, this only because I did not want to destroy Jamies setup.
First making sure I had a perfect square angle.


Here you get the picture of the principal.


And here with the cap iron.


In the back part of the plane, the bed and the sides are just following, so in this case I could cut these 45 degrees also and then draw the shape of the plane iron on to the other part (you can still se that line here).


Then cut that of and you can push it up to the blade and should have a snug fit when the blade is just a wee bit withdrawn.


Then you can put in the cap iron.
I had to sand a wee bit of my sides of the cap iron, so my measurement was not perfect…


Here we are, this is close to being a Kanna.


The sole of the plane looks fine and I can decide how closed or open I want the mouth.


Now it is all to adjust the parts.


First the back end.


Then the front.


I drill holes for dowels in the back and front to be sure I get it just right when I am going to glue.


Then it's just to add glue, don't be cheesy, we need a good contact.


The dowels are the hammered in, so I know it is all aligned up perfectly.


We can never have too many clamps and Jamie have tons.
Now I should wait 24 hours, but I'm going home tomorrow.


So I went for a bicycle ride and dinner, then took the chance after six hours.
And I was lucky, it seems to hold up perfectly fine.


First I chop of the dowels, and then a tour on the planner.


Back to the sled, here I cut of the ends, I cut the dowels away to get a clean surface.


The fit was not perfect, so I had to make some magic filler.
Sawdust from the same wood mixed with glue.


Ok, Jamie I admit, I took another saw blade, to make perfect crosscuts, but now the old one is back (it's a wee bit wobbly).


Naga-Dai-Kanna.


Japanese planner plane.


MaFe san, full of good Zen.


Ok, I did not have the time to mount the pin for the cap iron, to set up the sole and test it, this because I had to get back to Copenhagen. I will have to be patient, since my entire work shop including the kanna is inside this truck, since I had to empty the shop and be out of the building for the next 4-6 months, due to renovation of the building, so this last part will be in a wee bit time.

Hope this blog can bring some inspiration, who knows, perhaps we will see some MaFe san style planes in the future, I have searched the web and not found even one.

Japan (plane type and iron)
Russia (Krenov born)
US (Where Krenov made his planes)
Scotland UK (where I made mine in Jamies shop)
Denmark (where I live and are born)
It's a small and fascinating world.

Jamie on your table in the work shop, I cut up and left a piece of Oak, the pages from the Japanese book and your plane iron - this was meant as a challenge, now it is your turn. Hope you are all up and running my friend.

Japanese-Cutlery link:
http://blog.livedoor.jp/zip4/archives/51858108.html
D&M:
http://kskdesign.com.au/kanna/king_kanna.html

Best thoughts,
Mads
 
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