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#1 ·
Making a leather sheath for a axe or adze.

Axes, Adzes and Drawknife's
making a leather sheath for an axe or adze.

This is first part of a little series where I will go through the types of, making sheaths, and handles for axes, adzes and drawknife's, it will not be a general teaching, just me telling of how I do what I learned, and the types I have.

Making a leather sheath:

First you need some good leather, I personally use a thick hard pressured front piece cowhide app. 2 mm (I believe you call it harness leather in US), this type gives a stabile sheath, and can also be used for making sheaths that are formed and pressed wet (several of my knife sheaths are made like so).


The axe, a piece of paper, pen and a knife.


Make a fold at the center of the paper, then fold the paper over the axe.


Like so.


I use my fingers to press the transfer the shape of the axe to the paper, and then I draw it after.


Make an offset line app. 10-15 mm, this area will be where the stitching will be.


Time to make some design, here I end up choosing sweet curves and an open sheath type.
(Ass you can see my first attempt was not what I wanted).


Cut out the drawing so you get a template.


Now test fit on the axe.
I also looked at design ideas for the closing strap.


Find a suitable place on the leathers rough side, place the template and then draw the pattern there.


Now cut it out.


Test fit again.


Here a simple version for an English axe type, this is the fastest sheath you can make from leather.
You simply draw the axe shape on the backside of the leather, then make an offset line and cut after this one through two leather pieces front to front.


With leather glue you glue together the offset area. Since this is where the stitching will be.


Now trim the edges with an edge beveler you you can sand it later if you do not have one of these.


With a adjustable groover make the hollow for the sewing.
Alternative is to just draw a thin line and leave the stitches on top.


Mark the stitch distance with a spacer, a pounch or again you can just make marks with a pen.


Here with the spacer it's so fast.


Now time for holes, here there are two ways, either the awl like here.


Or the easy way, with a drill press and a 1mm drill.
I always use the drill press due to my arm neck problem.


Just follow the marking and drill.


Here a handful of sheaths ready for sewing.

Some links about knife sheath making:
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?22249-Scandi-Sheaths-My-Way
http://www.woodcraftmagazine.com/onlineextras/Knifesheathinstructions&pattern.pdf

I will break up the blog here for those with slow internet connections, and continue on next page.

I hope this blog will be an answer to those who asked, and an inspiration to care for your tools, but most of all that some of you will make some sheaths.

Best thoughts,
MaFe
 
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#4 ·
Nice work Mads. Next you will teach us how to carve wooden soles and make custom leather uppers for shoes, perhaps. LOL Leather work is something that I liked doing as a Boy Scout but have not done since. I love the smell of new leather. Looking forward to seeing how you stitch these.

Best wishes
 
#5 ·
Mike, I try to make it simple, trust me my own learning curve is not as high.
Serge, yes we would have plenty of fun. No I use a ordinary drill press.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 
#9 ·
Hi.
Moron, I laugh, yes this is a try to make a handle that are nice for me to use, that can give support in many angels, so the thought is to make it almost hang from the hand. It is nice to use, but I have not had the chance really to test it in detail work, what it is meant for. (I have had a neck operation the made me retire due to pain in neck and arms).
I acually like the design, even I must admit it is not at all what we expect on a axe.
Scott, yes the drill press part makes it so much easier. Don't make the holes too big, then the strength will be lost, so you still need a tight fit with the needle.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 
#10 ·
Mads,

Really nice tutorial. I've been thinking of making some leather chisel holders and plus I recently got a hatchet that, once I got it nice and sharp, it needs something like this to protect "ME" from that edge. You have provided some very simple step by step instructions that anyone could follow to do something like this. Now to figure out where to get some leather.

Doc
 
#12 ·
This is a really informative and easy to follow tutorial Mads. Nice work! You come up with the most creative projects! :)
 
#13 ·
Making a leather sheath for a axe or adze.

Axes, Adzes and Drawknife's part II
making a leather sheath for an axe or adze.

This is second part of a little series where I will go through the types of, making sheaths, and handles for axes, adzes and drawknife's, it will not be a general teaching, just me telling of how I do what I learned, and the types I have.

Making a leather sheath II sewing:

For the sewing you will need needles and waxed thread or at least thread and a block of wax.


So now it's time to ride the pony!
A pony is a clamp to hold the leather so you have both hands free. You sit on the pony to add stability, if you don't have a pony, you can just sew without or look in my blog and make one before you continue, I highly recommend this if you plan on making more than a few works in leather.
The pony: http://lumberjocks.com/mafe/blog/22457


Here is the method I use for stitching.
You make cross stitches, in this way they lock each other so if one brake it will still hold, when you reach the end sew two stitches back and cut the thread of.
It's that easy!


I use a pillar to pull out the thread since it can be quite hard, and gloves for my hands.


Here a done sewing.
Use a punch to make a hole for the strap, or drill this also, a punched hole is by far the strongest.


Here a gun button (button Stud), and a book screw (Chicago Screw), these I will use for the strap mount, but a less advanced version will follow.


Make a strap.
Make a hole in the end of the strap
Mount the book screw through them both.


And the gun button at the other side of the sheath.


Here we go, and no pipe… I'm getting healthy now.


Make a hole in the strap where it just fits over the gun button, and make a 10 mm cut backwards so the strap can slide over the button.


I also added a ring through two holes in the top.


And this is where we end.


And the other side.


The ring.


And a belt hanger that can be opened.


VERSION II this one uses no hardware.
As you see on the photo make four holes in a square a little wider than the strap you want.
Cut between the holes in pairs as seen.


Make a strap.
Thin the leather at the ends.
Here I use a super skiver.


Put the strap through the slots.
Glue or sew the one end in place so it cannot get out.
The other end will be loose.


And this is how it will look.


Fixed side.

Some links about knife sheath making:
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?22249-Scandi-Sheaths-My-Way
http://www.woodcraftmagazine.com/onlineextras/Knifesheathinstructions&pattern.pdf

This is the end of the leather sheath making.

I hope this blog will be an answer to those who asked, and an inspiration to care for your tools, but most of all that some of you will make some sheaths.

Best thoughts,
MaFe
 
#14 ·
Hi Mafe.

Here's a nice modification you can do on the pony to speed things up.

In place of the bolt and wing nut, put a dowel on an axle in one side as a roller and fix the end of a length of nylon webbing to the other. Run the strap over the dowel. Make the nylon strap long enough to reach the floor with a loop in the bottom so that the loop is just clear of the floor when you have your foot in it and the jaws are closed tight. When you want to clamp something, you just step down in the loop. When you want to release it, lift your foot. A small spring near the bottom can help by opening the jaws when there is no tension on the strap.

Another advantage is it leaves both hands free to position the leather while you clamp it.

Hope you find this hint helpful buddy.

Paul
 
#30 ·
Drawknifes restore and MaFe's sheath types

Drawknives restore and MaFe's sheath types.
we are back in Gepetto's tool cabinet.

Some old drawknives from E-bay, it might seem to be trash, but with a little work they are back to life.
Also I will show how to make a 'sheath.

This blog is dedicated to Andy (Brit) since I know he have a few on his way these days.


Old stuff price a few Euros, and it is often possible to make buys like this.
I know 'trash to some' priceless to others (me by the way).


Another piece of scrap from a trashed parasol.


Marking the center.


Punch it.


Rock and roll.
I must warn you I am quite a beginner in turning so there might be different ways.


If you have a handle you like take the main measures and transfer to the new handle.
I just made one out of imagination first and will now make one the same.


Like so.


I freehand the rest.


Quite close, close enough…
I said it! I'm a beginner . lol.


Some ornamentation.


And a piece of steel wire while it spins will burn the wood so you get a color there.
Learned this trick here on LJ.


Amazing yes.


Sanding 120.


240.


400.


Some shavings.


Yes I'm serious, this makes a fine surface.
(Even I don't try to make it perfect here since it is a tool handle).


Now I apply some polish with a little color inside, this for a polish and some patina.


A cloth.
Ok when I see this now I think I was too fast on the sanding…
But it's a tool and this will give some grip.


Linseed oil, I love that stuff.


Polish.


Carnauba wax.


Cloth. Wauuuuu….


Bees wax.


Spin - this is a finish that will last on a handle.


We got handles.


Then just another bunch.
Different types for different types of shaves, small once small handles that fit in the palm of your hand, big knifes bigger handles that you hold in the hand and can give a good strong pull.
We got handles.

I will split up the blog here for the slow internet connections.

Hope again to be able to share some energy, to perhaps even inspire others to bring some old tools back to life,

Best of thoughts,
Mads
 
#42 ·
Drawknifes restore and MaFe's sheath types

Drawknives restore and MaFe's sheath types.
we are back in Gepetto's tool cabinet.

This is part two of the drawknives restore and MaFe's sheath type's blog.
In this part the handles will be mounted and we will make a sheath.

This blog is dedicated to Andy (Brit) since I know he have a few on his way these days.


This was where we left last blog, knife blades and handles.


Break up the old, be careful not to bang your chisel into the metal!


This old handle was actually made from horn this I have never seen before, but these drawknives are French so perhaps different traditions.


If needed straighten the tang of the drawknife.
I also get rid of some rust here, but not too much since it will help with some friction.


So drill holes in handles.


And since the tangs are tapered I use a step drill to make a tapered hole inside.


Now a big bang!


Nice…


But we need a little more do I lay a nut on top so I can get the tang out.


Then add a washer.


And with a hammer shape the head over the washer, this is easier than you think if you never tried this.


Not too bad - or?


For another one I choose to drill through coins for washers, just to give it a little personality.


And here the tang is way too long for the handle size I want on this one.


Cut of what is too much.
Sodabowski you can see it is quite a while ago I did this…


And shape that also.


Here one where I could use the old stops and the tangs were undamaged.


I choose to give this straight handled knife some really comfy handles.


To me sure I do not break the tang I heat it before I bend it.


And this is how it looked originally also.


To sharpen you can use a stone as in the good old days.
Here you can see Kari Hultmans way of sharpen:
http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.com/2009/01/sharpening-drawknife.html


Some of mine needed a fresh edge.


The blades get some WD40 for protection.


Then all is waxed up.


New handles and time to smoke an old corn pipe.
This brings me to what drawknives we need?
It depends on what you want to do!
But if you want only one buy a flat with an 8-12 inch cutting edge, with this one you can do most of what you need.

Read: Choosing & Using Hand Tools

A good article by Mike Dunbar here.

Here a good video on the subject with Brian Boggs;
Press on the Lie-Nielsen toolworks - Choose Brian Boggs Drawknives…


Time to make a sheath or cap or whatever it's called…
Find a piece of wood (here one of the arms from a trashed parasol - again guys…).
Make some cuts so you get the thickness of the blade.


And the wood needs to be a little longer then the cutting edge.


A curved handle can be solved like this, unless you want to make laminated wood…


I then put a dowel or pin in each end so the blade can't slip out.


As you can see I have also drilled a hole in the center.
And finally I give it some linseed oil.


Put a string through the hole make a knot, and then you can fix it easy and will not lose the string.


Like this.


I also make a string for hanging them on my workshop wall.


Look some of these knifes are from the French car maker Peugeot they used to be excellent tool makes also.


And one made of leather, these are of course the best for curved blades but take time to make.


Here the first cap or sheath I made.


It has a leather strap to hold it in place.


For hollow out you might want an inshave, chair makers use these.


This is also an old French one.

That's it for now!

Naa we might need this picture:


Me enjoying my time with a drawknife on the one wild shaving horse blog.

Hope again to be able to share some energy, to perhaps even inspire others to bring some old tools back to life,

Best of thoughts,
Mads
 
#53 ·
Really great job, Mads. The last photo almost brought a tear to my eye. My Father did a demonstration at a heritage museum using a schnitzelbank and draw knives. It brought back many memories of him. Thanks!!!!!
 
#79 ·
New handle for an old hand forged gutter adze.

New handle for an old hand forged gutter adze
head from the Danish island Omø.

I had the luck to buy some wonderful old tools from a Danish carpenter.
Among these tools were this beautiful old gutter adze head, hand forged on a small Danish island called Omø, a local islander blacksmith there made this way back as you can see.
In Danish we call the tool: tængsel, huljern, huløkse.


As always I prefer a restore as gentle as possible, so I grinded of the bended edges, since these are dangerous in use, due to the fact they can fly of and make great damage, Also I cleaned up as much as needed for making a new cutting edge.
Had this wonderful piece of wood on a shelf for a long time and now seemed like the right time and project to put it to use. Not sure what it is, so I will just call it oakish.


Cut it to size and sketched up my basic idea for the shape.


Both sides.


Then roughed out on the band saw and this was the rough basic shape to work from.
Sawing can be done with a hand saw also.


With a draw knife shaping the top for fitting the head.


Cut a grove for a wedge.


Bang it in place.


Now shape with the draw knife and spoke shave, take it in your hand once in a while to ensure your hand and eye like the same.


I use a card scraper for finish, as this is an old adze, I will leave the tool marks but make a nice smooth surface to hold.


Wedge are banged in place I give it white glue also.


Linseed oil, plenty and my brand in the handle.


The old adze now got a new life in a new home.
I feel lucky.


Here the tools I bought from the carpenter, you can see the adze head there.

Hope again to be able to share some energy, to perhaps even inspire others to bring some old tools back to life,

Best of thoughts,
Mads
 
#80 ·
Interesting, and a great job. I'm curious - adzes I see here in NA are generally made with removable handles to facilitate sharpening. Is this not the case in Denmark? From the photos it looks like the eye of the adze is straight rather than tapered, and I guess it has to be tapered to allow for a removable head.
A beautiful collection of tools too - I like the pushme-pullyou tongue-and-groove planes and the wooden brace.
 
#88 ·
Restore an old French axe - handle and care detailed.

Restore an old French axe
handle and care detailed.

Some years back I bought a few wonderful axe heads from France, this is one of them and how it came back to life.
(This is a old series of pictures I just found on my computer from my old workshop. guess they never got out). ;-)


Here the tools that came from France.


Step one is to grind of any bend out edges, since these are potentially a danger.
(Yes I was a boy scout once and did get the axe medal - smiles).


This is what it looked like after.
Still traces of use, just as I like it.


Then a light touch with the brush to remove any loose rust, again careful not to remove the history.


Some pre work on the edge at the sander.


Then sharpen.


A good layer of bees wax for rust prevention.


I was fond of the shape I did for the other French axe, a small type, really handy.
Inspired by the Japanese I also like, so it is a MaFe hybrid.
Here making mi sketch on a piece of oak.
Try to look on both sides of the wood, make as much fibers go straight from end to end of the handle like this you get the strongest handle.


Cutting the rough shape on the band saw.


Then its just to spend some wonderful time with the draw knifes.
Be careful with the grain directions, if you dig in, then change direction, you will get it fast.


I also use spoke shaves for next level of finish, in this case you need a round sole version.


Cut a groove for the wedge and shape the end to fit in the axe head.


In this case I use a contrast wood color, just for the beauty of it.


White glue.
Bang it in place.


Leave to dry.


Cut of the extra.


I like to beat up the end grain a wee.


To get a look like this.


Plenty of linseed oil, plenty, let it suck until it cant take any more.


Then the handle can be finished up with a card scraper.


Nothing beats that finish.


Linseed oil and then some bees wax.


From a sweet little grease box.


Here it is.
I have used it since then and really love it here in the shop.
If it was a daily use forest axe I will recommend a thicker handle, both for better grip and strength.


I'm sure Mike can guess when I made this axe handle.

Hope again to be able to share some energy, to perhaps even inspire others to bring some old tools back to life,

Best of thoughts,
Mads
 
#100 ·
Carpenters adze - making a handle.

Carpenters adze
making a handle

I'm not an expert in adzes but after what I have read, this is a carpenters adze du to the shape of the head.
It was a gift from a boat builder some years back.
This is how it got a handle.
In Danish it's called a: skar økse.

I made some study on the web and found it should have a curve towards the cutting edge and that the distance from the end of the handle to the cutting edge and to the handle end should be the same.
The length I made just a wee longer then the distance from the floor to where the hand starts on the arm, perhaps a inch more would be better if you will work long hours with it, since this length take a light back bend, but this is good for me since I can then see what I do and gain control.
I have used it quite a few times, really love this tool, it is a back to basic tool, that I was amazed how accurate I could work with after only a little practice.
Do wear some heavy shoes, work shoes with metal noses are the best.
And no you are not macho doing it bare food.


Would have liked a wee more curve, but the wood I had took the decision for me.
So I sketched up the curve I could get as a maximum on this board.


Then cut the first side on the band saw again reading the grain and correcting the curves a wee bit as I read it.


Now making sure it was wide enough to accept and hold the adze head in place.


Transfer these measures to the wood.
Like this the band saw will have a track to follow.


Also correcting a wee down the handle.


Back to the saw.


Then it was just to start shaping.
(Look in last blog for more details).


Before and after.


Then linseed oil, plenty.


Here it is.

Hope again to be able to share some energy, to perhaps even inspire others to bring some old tools back to life,

Best of thoughts,
Mads
 
#112 ·
Hand forged Bulgarian axe - sheath and handle

Hand forged Bulgarian axe
sheath and handle.

This is another one from the drawer of blogs, to be precise from my birthday back in the summer 2017, I had just gotten a wonderful little axe head, from a Bulgarian blacksmith and needed to bring it to life.

I bought it because I wanted to have a small camp axe, that would be lightweight, easy to carry, a good wood splitter and useful for woodworking when in the camp. So not a tree felling axe, as I bring a knock down saw for that.


Here he is, what a guy, I asked kindly if I could get a few photos of the process and got these wonderful shots of him, making my axe.
I simply love this shot, the whole atmosphere, the tools and babes on the wall, the dress, the cigarette in the mouth, but most of all the look in his eyes.


Shaping at the anvil.


Hardening.


Heat treating.


A few weeks later in Copenhagen now,leather cut from a large piece, after making a paper template, that fits the axe.


Contact cement to keep the parts together.


Strips makes room for the axe head in the sheath, notice I made gaps, so water will be able to et out, if it should rain.


Loop and a piece of strap, three layers, are marked up


Especially on thick leather it makes it easy to make the holes, if you drill them, just don't use too thick a drill bit, as you want the stitches to be held in the leather.


After stitching.


Inside.


After mounting the gun bottom and gluing up the sheath, it's time to do the outside stitching.


Riding the pony.


Sheath done and ready to be brought out into that beautiful nature.


Testing the axe, while making a spoon for stirring the food, I love it for wood working, you can cut and plane with it easy as youcan get the hand under the head.


What better way, to recharge your batteries and let peace into your soul.


Camp MaFe. Smiles.

Hope it can be to some inspiration, even to go into nature.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
 
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