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#1 ·
Wall / Portable Tool Rack

I seem to have a lot of SU drawings that I do that may or may not ever be built. Either way, I thought others might benefit from them.

This first one is a paged tool rack similar to ones I'm sure you've seen in several publications. Some I like, some I see blatant flaws in. This style reminds me of the days way back when I would go to the Dept. Store and look at the blacklight posters.

Door Rectangle Art Facade Gas


A couple of changes I've made include being able to quickly and easily remove it from the wall mount and work with it on the bench. For less used tools, they could just as easilly be stored on a shelf or slid into a purpose-built cubby hole.

Azure Rectangle Wood Art Paint


I also designed this with single 3/8" plexiglass panels to more easilly find the tool you are looking for. Plywood can easilly be used in place of the plexiglass. I chose against the sometimes more popular peg board for a reason. For me, once I decide where I wanted to hang something on the wall, it pretty much didn't ever change. If it ever did, I didn't mind the holes it left behind in the cases where I just used plywood.

I designed these for square panels, making the frame pieces ALL the same length. This aleviates having Rails and Stiles that are manufactured differently, making it easier to build.

Here's the frame assembly. For the life of me, I cannot recall why I needed the gussets on all 4 corners. The two on the dowel side are mostly cosmetic to cover up the dowels, simply glued in place. It was expected that the holes for the dowels would be drilled after each rack was assembled.

Rectangle Line Triangle Font Material property


EDIT: More pictures:

Here's a better view of one of the Racks.

Rectangle Wood Outdoor furniture Art Font


And some details of the 2Ă—4's holding it to the wall. Lag bolts/washers holding it to the wall are not shown. The washers could be cut from a milk jug. In addition, a support block under the lower support might be in order.

Rectangle Automotive exterior Font Triangle Parallel


Lastly, a shot looking down the end of the upper support with the end face removed. Note the vertical holes on this support. Once drilled, carefully tilt the support about 10 degrees to 'waller out' the hole, but only forwards. This allows the upper dowel to be rotated the 9 degrees needed for removal of each of the racks.

Automotive design Cylinder Rectangle Engineering Parallel


Caveat: As with most of my projects and designs, I stand on the shoulders of those that have gone before me. It is infinitely easier to modify a good design someone else dreamed up than to come up with the whole thing on my own. All comments, suggestions, and criticisms are welcome. :)
 

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#2 ·
Wall / Portable Tool Rack

I seem to have a lot of SU drawings that I do that may or may not ever be built. Either way, I thought others might benefit from them.

This first one is a paged tool rack similar to ones I'm sure you've seen in several publications. Some I like, some I see blatant flaws in. This style reminds me of the days way back when I would go to the Dept. Store and look at the blacklight posters.

Door Rectangle Art Facade Gas


A couple of changes I've made include being able to quickly and easily remove it from the wall mount and work with it on the bench. For less used tools, they could just as easilly be stored on a shelf or slid into a purpose-built cubby hole.

Azure Rectangle Wood Art Paint


I also designed this with single 3/8" plexiglass panels to more easilly find the tool you are looking for. Plywood can easilly be used in place of the plexiglass. I chose against the sometimes more popular peg board for a reason. For me, once I decide where I wanted to hang something on the wall, it pretty much didn't ever change. If it ever did, I didn't mind the holes it left behind in the cases where I just used plywood.

I designed these for square panels, making the frame pieces ALL the same length. This aleviates having Rails and Stiles that are manufactured differently, making it easier to build.

Here's the frame assembly. For the life of me, I cannot recall why I needed the gussets on all 4 corners. The two on the dowel side are mostly cosmetic to cover up the dowels, simply glued in place. It was expected that the holes for the dowels would be drilled after each rack was assembled.

Rectangle Line Triangle Font Material property


EDIT: More pictures:

Here's a better view of one of the Racks.

Rectangle Wood Outdoor furniture Art Font


And some details of the 2Ă—4's holding it to the wall. Lag bolts/washers holding it to the wall are not shown. The washers could be cut from a milk jug. In addition, a support block under the lower support might be in order.

Rectangle Automotive exterior Font Triangle Parallel


Lastly, a shot looking down the end of the upper support with the end face removed. Note the vertical holes on this support. Once drilled, carefully tilt the support about 10 degrees to 'waller out' the hole, but only forwards. This allows the upper dowel to be rotated the 9 degrees needed for removal of each of the racks.

Automotive design Cylinder Rectangle Engineering Parallel


Caveat: As with most of my projects and designs, I stand on the shoulders of those that have gone before me. It is infinitely easier to modify a good design someone else dreamed up than to come up with the whole thing on my own. All comments, suggestions, and criticisms are welcome. :)
Cool drawing.

Lee
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Wall / Portable Tool Rack

I seem to have a lot of SU drawings that I do that may or may not ever be built. Either way, I thought others might benefit from them.

This first one is a paged tool rack similar to ones I'm sure you've seen in several publications. Some I like, some I see blatant flaws in. This style reminds me of the days way back when I would go to the Dept. Store and look at the blacklight posters.

Door Rectangle Art Facade Gas


A couple of changes I've made include being able to quickly and easily remove it from the wall mount and work with it on the bench. For less used tools, they could just as easilly be stored on a shelf or slid into a purpose-built cubby hole.

Azure Rectangle Wood Art Paint


I also designed this with single 3/8" plexiglass panels to more easilly find the tool you are looking for. Plywood can easilly be used in place of the plexiglass. I chose against the sometimes more popular peg board for a reason. For me, once I decide where I wanted to hang something on the wall, it pretty much didn't ever change. If it ever did, I didn't mind the holes it left behind in the cases where I just used plywood.

I designed these for square panels, making the frame pieces ALL the same length. This aleviates having Rails and Stiles that are manufactured differently, making it easier to build.

Here's the frame assembly. For the life of me, I cannot recall why I needed the gussets on all 4 corners. The two on the dowel side are mostly cosmetic to cover up the dowels, simply glued in place. It was expected that the holes for the dowels would be drilled after each rack was assembled.

Rectangle Line Triangle Font Material property


EDIT: More pictures:

Here's a better view of one of the Racks.

Rectangle Wood Outdoor furniture Art Font


And some details of the 2Ă—4's holding it to the wall. Lag bolts/washers holding it to the wall are not shown. The washers could be cut from a milk jug. In addition, a support block under the lower support might be in order.

Rectangle Automotive exterior Font Triangle Parallel


Lastly, a shot looking down the end of the upper support with the end face removed. Note the vertical holes on this support. Once drilled, carefully tilt the support about 10 degrees to 'waller out' the hole, but only forwards. This allows the upper dowel to be rotated the 9 degrees needed for removal of each of the racks.

Automotive design Cylinder Rectangle Engineering Parallel


Caveat: As with most of my projects and designs, I stand on the shoulders of those that have gone before me. It is infinitely easier to modify a good design someone else dreamed up than to come up with the whole thing on my own. All comments, suggestions, and criticisms are welcome. :)
I really like this idea… totally cool
 

Attachments

#4 ·
Wall / Portable Tool Rack

I seem to have a lot of SU drawings that I do that may or may not ever be built. Either way, I thought others might benefit from them.

This first one is a paged tool rack similar to ones I'm sure you've seen in several publications. Some I like, some I see blatant flaws in. This style reminds me of the days way back when I would go to the Dept. Store and look at the blacklight posters.

Door Rectangle Art Facade Gas


A couple of changes I've made include being able to quickly and easily remove it from the wall mount and work with it on the bench. For less used tools, they could just as easilly be stored on a shelf or slid into a purpose-built cubby hole.

Azure Rectangle Wood Art Paint


I also designed this with single 3/8" plexiglass panels to more easilly find the tool you are looking for. Plywood can easilly be used in place of the plexiglass. I chose against the sometimes more popular peg board for a reason. For me, once I decide where I wanted to hang something on the wall, it pretty much didn't ever change. If it ever did, I didn't mind the holes it left behind in the cases where I just used plywood.

I designed these for square panels, making the frame pieces ALL the same length. This aleviates having Rails and Stiles that are manufactured differently, making it easier to build.

Here's the frame assembly. For the life of me, I cannot recall why I needed the gussets on all 4 corners. The two on the dowel side are mostly cosmetic to cover up the dowels, simply glued in place. It was expected that the holes for the dowels would be drilled after each rack was assembled.

Rectangle Line Triangle Font Material property


EDIT: More pictures:

Here's a better view of one of the Racks.

Rectangle Wood Outdoor furniture Art Font


And some details of the 2Ă—4's holding it to the wall. Lag bolts/washers holding it to the wall are not shown. The washers could be cut from a milk jug. In addition, a support block under the lower support might be in order.

Rectangle Automotive exterior Font Triangle Parallel


Lastly, a shot looking down the end of the upper support with the end face removed. Note the vertical holes on this support. Once drilled, carefully tilt the support about 10 degrees to 'waller out' the hole, but only forwards. This allows the upper dowel to be rotated the 9 degrees needed for removal of each of the racks.

Automotive design Cylinder Rectangle Engineering Parallel


Caveat: As with most of my projects and designs, I stand on the shoulders of those that have gone before me. It is infinitely easier to modify a good design someone else dreamed up than to come up with the whole thing on my own. All comments, suggestions, and criticisms are welcome. :)
Very cool! I like it… Look fwd to seeing this come along!
 

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#5 ·
Workshop Expansion for a Friend

A friend of mine asked if I could help him with a SU drawing for his workshop expansion. He currently has a 16Ă—24 space that he is quickly outgrowing. He has done some woodworking in the past with carving and other things but recently got the bug to step it up a notch. He is planning on having the shell built by a contractor and he and I will finish the inside. Here's a profile view. You can see his existing shop at the rear.

Wheel Tire Land lot Line Urban design


Note: The Tractor, fence, and garden plots were obtained from Google 3D Warehouse. You have to be careful what you get from there. Many of the objects come with a pretty hefty cost with regard to file size. With a little careful planning, file size can be kept managable. Ya just have to think about it when you are building your objects.

Another view from the front:

Property Building Plant Window Terrestrial plant


And a view from the left side, which I left exposed for viewing. I just noticed we're missing a couple of studs. Hope the builder doesn't do the same. :)

Building Shade Rectangle Facade Tints and shades


Once it is finished, I'll try to get some pictures of the result. That'll be several weeks though.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Workshop Expansion for a Friend

A friend of mine asked if I could help him with a SU drawing for his workshop expansion. He currently has a 16Ă—24 space that he is quickly outgrowing. He has done some woodworking in the past with carving and other things but recently got the bug to step it up a notch. He is planning on having the shell built by a contractor and he and I will finish the inside. Here's a profile view. You can see his existing shop at the rear.

Wheel Tire Land lot Line Urban design


Note: The Tractor, fence, and garden plots were obtained from Google 3D Warehouse. You have to be careful what you get from there. Many of the objects come with a pretty hefty cost with regard to file size. With a little careful planning, file size can be kept managable. Ya just have to think about it when you are building your objects.

Another view from the front:

Property Building Plant Window Terrestrial plant


And a view from the left side, which I left exposed for viewing. I just noticed we're missing a couple of studs. Hope the builder doesn't do the same. :)

Building Shade Rectangle Facade Tints and shades


Once it is finished, I'll try to get some pictures of the result. That'll be several weeks though.
I did the same thing when I converted my 60 yr old single car garage to a shop and SU was such a great help. I was able to make, and correct, many of the mistakes while sitting in my easy chair. It was also invaluable when I purchased my materials. I still refer to the original model often. Really nice model that you did. Good luck with your project.
 

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#7 ·
Rolling Tool Cart

Musical instrument Rectangle Musical instrument accessory Wood Chair


I got the inspiration for this from Workbench Magazine . I deliberately did not look at their drawings for dimensions or scale.

Rectangle Wood Toy Shelving Building sets


This cart looked like a good design. As with many projects, it is infinitely easier to customize an existing design rather than come up with all original ideas. How many times do we stand on the shoulders of giants that have gone before us?

The inner structure:
Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood Parallel


I replaced the pegboard on theirs with 1/2" plywood thinking I would simply screw tool holders and such to the plywood. Then I though French Cleats might be better. This led me to thinking about the use of the cart. I could roll it around the shop, gathering up tools and such for a project. Then roll it over to my work area and create all the sawdust one would want. After that project was complete, then I could reconfigure it for another project.

Wood Wood stain Slope Rectangle Parallel


The thinking above sorta requires you 'buy into' the Whole-Shop French-Cleat mindset. It would make changes infinitely easier down the road.

I also wanted to add some clamp storage to the cart. By replacing their inner ply panel with two, then I could put clamps in that slot. Keep in mind this is not meant for "all the clamps in your shop", just the ones for a particular job. Or maybe a subset would always reside in this cart. Being the frugal person I am. I then changed those two inner panels to just plywood strips. These are more easilly obtained from my favorite sport "Dumpster Diving". :D Same rule applies to scraps you may have lying around.

Wood Font Art Carmine Event


Economy of lumber:
Plywood ends are 1/2.
Plywood bottom and shelves are 3/4.
All solid wood is sized to be easilly ripped from 2Ă—4 scraps.

I designed mine as 18Ă—36 at a height of 42. This just seemed about right. The front of the shelves have 1/4" strips fastened with glue to keep things from sliding off. This also adds a little stability to prevent sagging. (Maybe strips on the back of the shelves would be appropriate for the same reasons.) The shelves are screwed & glued to their support cleats on the ends. Those cleats are in turn dry screwed to the end support plywood which makes the shelf height relatively easy to adjust. This seemed to be preferable over shelf pins. I thought the shelves may inadvertantly be used as a handle to push it around and might tumble the shelves over if mere gravity was the only thing holding them in place.

A view with one end support removed:
Rectangle Wood Line Parallel Art


You could make something like this as plain or fancy as you wish. That's the fun thing about having your own workshop. I hope you enjoy this and it gives you ideas for your shop. All comments and/or constructive criticism is welcome.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Rolling Tool Cart

Musical instrument Rectangle Musical instrument accessory Wood Chair


I got the inspiration for this from Workbench Magazine . I deliberately did not look at their drawings for dimensions or scale.

Rectangle Wood Toy Shelving Building sets


This cart looked like a good design. As with many projects, it is infinitely easier to customize an existing design rather than come up with all original ideas. How many times do we stand on the shoulders of giants that have gone before us?

The inner structure:
Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood Parallel


I replaced the pegboard on theirs with 1/2" plywood thinking I would simply screw tool holders and such to the plywood. Then I though French Cleats might be better. This led me to thinking about the use of the cart. I could roll it around the shop, gathering up tools and such for a project. Then roll it over to my work area and create all the sawdust one would want. After that project was complete, then I could reconfigure it for another project.

Wood Wood stain Slope Rectangle Parallel


The thinking above sorta requires you 'buy into' the Whole-Shop French-Cleat mindset. It would make changes infinitely easier down the road.

I also wanted to add some clamp storage to the cart. By replacing their inner ply panel with two, then I could put clamps in that slot. Keep in mind this is not meant for "all the clamps in your shop", just the ones for a particular job. Or maybe a subset would always reside in this cart. Being the frugal person I am. I then changed those two inner panels to just plywood strips. These are more easilly obtained from my favorite sport "Dumpster Diving". :D Same rule applies to scraps you may have lying around.

Wood Font Art Carmine Event


Economy of lumber:
Plywood ends are 1/2.
Plywood bottom and shelves are 3/4.
All solid wood is sized to be easilly ripped from 2Ă—4 scraps.

I designed mine as 18Ă—36 at a height of 42. This just seemed about right. The front of the shelves have 1/4" strips fastened with glue to keep things from sliding off. This also adds a little stability to prevent sagging. (Maybe strips on the back of the shelves would be appropriate for the same reasons.) The shelves are screwed & glued to their support cleats on the ends. Those cleats are in turn dry screwed to the end support plywood which makes the shelf height relatively easy to adjust. This seemed to be preferable over shelf pins. I thought the shelves may inadvertantly be used as a handle to push it around and might tumble the shelves over if mere gravity was the only thing holding them in place.

A view with one end support removed:
Rectangle Wood Line Parallel Art


You could make something like this as plain or fancy as you wish. That's the fun thing about having your own workshop. I hope you enjoy this and it gives you ideas for your shop. All comments and/or constructive criticism is welcome.
Nice - you are a whiz with that SU.
 

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#11 ·
File Size (WATCH OUT!)

So many times I see a great SU drawing, but the author totally ignored the idea of file size economy. What am I talking about here? If you plan on sharing your file with someone else, it might be beneficial to both parties to stay cognizant of the size of the file you are creating.

Even though I am getting to the point in SU where it no longer impeeds my progress, I still watch SU tutorials from time to time. Just a few months ago, I came across one that went into a some detail about file size consideration. Unfortunately, for the life of me I cannot recall where I saw it and did not save the link. If you know of that(or another) tutorial that talks about file bloat, I would appreciate you sharing that link so I could review it for myself and pass it on to others.

When building objects, I make every separate piece of wood, a component. Why not a group? Well, when you copy a Group, you are copying each and every line and face that makes up that object. When you copy a component, you are essentially only copying a link to the definition of the object rather than a full copy of that object. The definition is stored in your SU file only once and each copy of that Component points back to the definition to understand how it is built. That 'pointer' takes up a whole lot smaller space than the actual definition does.

Another aspect of SU that often contributes to file bloat is curves. Curves are really only a series of straight lines. The default for drawing circles is to make them up with a series of 24 straight lines. You have the option to change that though. When you select the Circle tool, look at the lower right corner of your SU window. See the 24? You can just type 12 and press the Enter key. You have now changed the definition of a circle to only take up 12 line segments rather than the default of 24. Yes, you loose a little bit of resolution and 'realism', but how 'real' does a hidden hole really need to be in a drawing? Not often in most cases. Take the case below where we draw a caster. The one on the left takes 77kb to draw, whereas the one on the right reduces that to only 33kb:

Sleeve Font Symbol Drawing Graphics


Once you zoom out to see the whole project, you'll likely not even notice the resolution difference. To compound that, imagine a Sphere. By default, it is made up of many faces. 288 to be exact. By changing your default circle to just half(12), you reduce the number of faces to a mere 72:

White Line Material property Art Symmetry


I'm not suggesting that you ALWAYS reduce the resolution, but you can certainly reduce it when it is not needed. After all, the purpose for most of us woodworkers in using SU is to 1) get an idea of an object's shape and dimensional ratios before we go cutting up possibly expensive lumber, and 2) to have the drawing tell US what the exact dimension of a piece is that we've designed.

And as mentioned earlier, using Components rather than Groups, you can further reduce your file sizes. I hope this is helpful to some of you.
 

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#12 ·
File Size (WATCH OUT!)

So many times I see a great SU drawing, but the author totally ignored the idea of file size economy. What am I talking about here? If you plan on sharing your file with someone else, it might be beneficial to both parties to stay cognizant of the size of the file you are creating.

Even though I am getting to the point in SU where it no longer impeeds my progress, I still watch SU tutorials from time to time. Just a few months ago, I came across one that went into a some detail about file size consideration. Unfortunately, for the life of me I cannot recall where I saw it and did not save the link. If you know of that(or another) tutorial that talks about file bloat, I would appreciate you sharing that link so I could review it for myself and pass it on to others.

When building objects, I make every separate piece of wood, a component. Why not a group? Well, when you copy a Group, you are copying each and every line and face that makes up that object. When you copy a component, you are essentially only copying a link to the definition of the object rather than a full copy of that object. The definition is stored in your SU file only once and each copy of that Component points back to the definition to understand how it is built. That 'pointer' takes up a whole lot smaller space than the actual definition does.

Another aspect of SU that often contributes to file bloat is curves. Curves are really only a series of straight lines. The default for drawing circles is to make them up with a series of 24 straight lines. You have the option to change that though. When you select the Circle tool, look at the lower right corner of your SU window. See the 24? You can just type 12 and press the Enter key. You have now changed the definition of a circle to only take up 12 line segments rather than the default of 24. Yes, you loose a little bit of resolution and 'realism', but how 'real' does a hidden hole really need to be in a drawing? Not often in most cases. Take the case below where we draw a caster. The one on the left takes 77kb to draw, whereas the one on the right reduces that to only 33kb:

Sleeve Font Symbol Drawing Graphics


Once you zoom out to see the whole project, you'll likely not even notice the resolution difference. To compound that, imagine a Sphere. By default, it is made up of many faces. 288 to be exact. By changing your default circle to just half(12), you reduce the number of faces to a mere 72:

White Line Material property Art Symmetry


I'm not suggesting that you ALWAYS reduce the resolution, but you can certainly reduce it when it is not needed. After all, the purpose for most of us woodworkers in using SU is to 1) get an idea of an object's shape and dimensional ratios before we go cutting up possibly expensive lumber, and 2) to have the drawing tell US what the exact dimension of a piece is that we've designed.

And as mentioned earlier, using Components rather than Groups, you can further reduce your file sizes. I hope this is helpful to some of you.
excellent blog on su. why dont we have a on going thread on su. The length was just right. thank you,,,, phil ptweedy@yahoo.com
 

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#19 ·
Rolling Wood Storage Rack

I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:

Rectangle Parallel Drawing Illustration Plan


It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.

It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2Ă—4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.

Rectangle Table Engineering Triangle Facade


In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.

Font Building Parallel Basketball hoop Urban design


By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.

Property Wood Architecture Rectangle Material property


The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.

Naval architecture Facade Building Urban design Illustration


I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.

Rectangle Wood Material property Parallel Slope


You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.

Brown Rectangle Window Wood Fixture


As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.

Rectangle Table Triangle Parallel Engineering


Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.

Rectangle Triangle Parallel Wood Font


Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!
 

Attachments

#20 ·
Rolling Wood Storage Rack

I've seen several variations of these rolling wood storage units. Inspired by them, I came up with this one for a friend of mine:

Rectangle Parallel Drawing Illustration Plan


It incorporates storage for long lumber, sheet goods, and small turning blocks as well. About the only thing I might add would be dowel storage of some kind. Truth be told, I'd probably just put them in tubes and store them on one of the shelves.

It is a typical A-Frame design with half lapped joints. For economy, most of the stick material is 2Ă—4 lumber. The sheet goods are 1/4" Luan, largly because I have access to lots of it for free. Obviously you should substitute for what you have plentifully available. Note the Rope on the left to keep the sheet goods from tipping out too far when moving the cart or rifling through the sheets. It can be quicky detatched at the top from the eye hook.

Rectangle Table Engineering Triangle Facade


In the center are 4 shelves. As depicted, I might store turning blanks and such on the Top and Upper shelves. For the Lower and Bottom shelves, plastic bins might be used. I would adjust the width of the Lower shelf to fit the bins you plan on using. Same with shelf height. The bottom center could still be used to store traditional long lumber, but getting it out could be a problem in a smaller shop.

Font Building Parallel Basketball hoop Urban design


By simply laying a piece of paneling on that Upper shelf, this would make it easier to get access to the inner section by just sliding the panel out. No fancy rollers needed, just wax the panel before putting it in place.

Property Wood Architecture Rectangle Material property


The Middle and Lower inner shelves could contain bins for additional storage of smaller offcuts. Or the bins could be used to store projects away at the end of the day or until a back ordered part arrives. To access the inner bins, take one out of one end and shove it back in the opposite end.

Naval architecture Facade Building Urban design Illustration


I've designed one corner so it could be temporarilly tied to the wall. I would imagine that access to sheet goods would not be needed as often. By raising the short rod, the whole cart could be moved. FWIW, the handle on that rod must be screwed in place after the rod is slid in place.

Rectangle Wood Material property Parallel Slope


You could also go with non-swiveling casters but you'd need to mount them at a perpendicular angle to the pivot rod as shown here.

Brown Rectangle Window Wood Fixture


As an alternate, I might suggest moving the two outer supports(blue) for the top, to the next inner A-Frames. This might better balance the top and allow easier access for long pieces stored on that upper shelf.

Rectangle Table Triangle Parallel Engineering


Here you can see the design of the individual A-Frames.

Rectangle Triangle Parallel Wood Font


Many variations could be made here, smaller top, eliminating the shelves on the sheetgoods side, etc. I rarely build strictly by 'plans', and I'd expect you to 'make this your own' as well. All comments and suggestions are welcome. Enjoy!
looks pretty good. my only suggestion would be to go with the largest casters possible. i made a similar cart using 5" casters and it can be a bear getting it rolling, id imagine the weight of your cart would be somewhat more then the one i built fully loaded.
 

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#32 ·
3 Legged Workbench

So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.

How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.

So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench.
Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Outdoor furniture


It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.
Table Outdoor table Outdoor furniture Rectangle Chair


Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs.
Rectangle Font Art Parallel Electric blue


Parallel Slope Rectangle Diagram Balance


I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench.
Table Wood Rectangle Outdoor table Parallel


Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)
Rectangle Wood Font Art Parallel


Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better
Triangle Rectangle Wood Parallel Metal


Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Outdoor furniture


This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are.
Rectangle Wood Table Triangle Font


I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.

Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.

Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.

.

EDIT:

Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.

Rectangle Slope Triangle Wood Parallel


Furniture Table Rectangle Outdoor table Outdoor furniture


Triangle Parallel Rectangle Slope Wood


Rectangle Wood Triangle Wood stain Slope


Rectangle Slope Wood Font Triangle


Table Outdoor table Rectangle Wood Outdoor furniture


Rectangle Azure Aqua Material property Parallel
 

Attachments

#33 ·
3 Legged Workbench

So you've built this elaborate workbench, the 'Workbench of your Dreams'. With a Rock Maple top, Paduk edging and all the dog holes anyone could ever ask for (to go with the donuts). You have a difficult time positioning it because it weighs 400 lbs. THEN you realize, although you've taken every precaution to make sure all four legs are level and of equal length, the bench thinks its a Rock Star in its new home, your newly finished workshop. It ROCKS, but NOT in a good way.

How many times has this story become a realization? Well, Why not build a 3 legged workbench? I Googled around and the ones I could find were just 3 legged versions of the same ole rectangular benches. These seem to present a new problem with the bench tipping when you happen to be hand-planing in the wrong direction. Particularly working near, or on, the end with one leg.

So I present to you, the 'Triangle Workbench'. Actually 'A' Triangle Workbench.
Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Outdoor furniture


It looks weird. Mostly because we are not used to seeing them in the modern(or old) workshops. How about we dress it up with an old-school vise & bench dog holes.
Table Outdoor table Outdoor furniture Rectangle Chair


Yes, even though I don't profess to use many hand-tools, I believe it should have a certain draw from folks that do use them. True to form for many of those traditional benches, I've built it with the medium-length face even with the edge of the bench for clamping large items (such as a door) to the front two legs.
Rectangle Font Art Parallel Electric blue


Parallel Slope Rectangle Diagram Balance


I've also provided the longest edge with an overhang to aid in the clamping of workpieces to the top of the bench.
Table Wood Rectangle Outdoor table Parallel


Now on to some fun details. As part of the design of the front edge, I wanted to add some bracing for those two legs. Well, as it turns out, that bracing just so happens to make for a nice tool tray on the side. No, its not too traditional, but it could be useful. I've added a small lip to keep chisels from rolling out. (Leg and apron hidden for clarity)
Rectangle Wood Font Art Parallel


Here's a couple of views from above with the top removed. I temporarilly colored the legs charcoal gray so you could see them a little better
Triangle Rectangle Wood Parallel Metal


Table Furniture Rectangle Wood Outdoor furniture


This is another place where a drawing package can shine over just a napkin drawing. You can size and draw the known dimensions for most parts, then you can add an angled piece and have the application(in this case SketchUp) tell YOU what the angles or dimensions are.
Rectangle Wood Table Triangle Font


I've built this virtual one for your pondering. Maybe it will inspire someone to try one out for themselves. I've built this one with the 3-4-5 triangle in mind. You might also be interested in building two of them and placing them back to back with the long edges facing each other.

Feel free to build it up. shoot the idea down, or offer suggestions or alterations. That's just one of the neat things about building 'virtual' projects, whether in SU or your own 3D design tool. It gives you the chance to make all(well, many) of your mistakes on the computer screen rather than with possibly expensive materials.

Disclaimer: I'm positive there are folks that have broached this subject in the past, but they sure aren't very prevalent when I searched for them. If you find some, feel free to share the picture with others.

.

EDIT:

Per a new LJ's request, here are the dimensions for this bench as it was designed. I still believe it could use some improvement. Enjoy.

Rectangle Slope Triangle Wood Parallel


Furniture Table Rectangle Outdoor table Outdoor furniture


Triangle Parallel Rectangle Slope Wood


Rectangle Wood Triangle Wood stain Slope


Rectangle Slope Wood Font Triangle


Table Outdoor table Rectangle Wood Outdoor furniture


Rectangle Azure Aqua Material property Parallel
I like that table, it would fit my shop just about right. but I still need to get that small thing on top { just to keep my head dry } frist. Yall need to keep the great ideals up.
 

Attachments

#45 ·
Corner Splines Without a Tablesaw

I've seen questions here on LJ asking how to cut accurate splines with weapons other than a table saw. The obvious next choice might be a router. But what if you wanted them thinner than you could get with either of those?

I'm gonna suggest a good hand saw. Some can do them freehand with a hand saw. I'm not that good yet so my choice would be to build a Jig. (Or at least a SU drawing :).

First order of business would be saw selection. Although some of the larger saws might work, I'm gonna suggest a nice Dovetail Saw. If we are cutting corner splines on a nice mitered box, then we will be ripping. Therefore, we would prefer a saw with a rip tooth configuration. In actuallity, I'll bet a Tennon saw would work pretty well too. The main requirement for the saw would be that it have a spine. You might suggest that it would rule out the Japanese pull saws but I say they could be configured to work. Alls ya godda do is configure a spine for them. That shouldn't be too tough of a task for most folks. I'd say clamp the spine with the smallest of clamps to not increase the weight of the saw too much though.

On to the jig (my favorite part). Here's an initial design that I believe would fit the bill for most woodworkers. It is not too difficult to build and should accomodate most any appropriate saw.
Wood Rectangle Font Parallel Metal


Lets break this down a bit. The basic jig starts with a corner brace attached with a butt joint:
Rectangle Triangle Wood Beige Tent


Dimensions are not all that critical. Just use what you have available in the shop. Mine happen to be 4" x 8" x 3/4". As with most jigs, I would suggest either MDF or some Baltic Birch plywood.

Next are the saw blade guides(Refined):
Rectangle Wood Triangle Shade Wood stain

These are are a glue-up of a 1/2" strip and two 3" triangles. These are glued up separately, lightly planed, then installed. Note the grain direction for maximum strength if using solid wood.

Attach the Blade Guides. Draw a perpendicular line on the corner braces and attach the blade guides to the corner braces. You could glue the first one and wait till the glue dries or glue them both at the same time. Either way, you'll use your saw to accomodate for the gap between the two guides:
Triangle Material property Font Rectangle Wood


To accomodate for the set in the teeth on the saw, you can add strips of tape on the blade. What you are after is to have the two saw blade guides perfectly parallel. Use the saw alternataly on both slopes to set the width of the kerf gap. You'll want this snug. If it is too tight after gluing, you'll easilly be able to remove the tape on the saw and saw through to open it up properly.

Now for the fence. The fence determines how far from the top/bottom of the box that the saw kerf will be. I just used two 4" x 4" blocks fastened together:
Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades


This fence will be held in place with a small C-Clamp when using the jig:
Wood Sleeve Font Beige Rectangle

I suppose you could screw it in place as well. Actually, that's probably what I would end up doing.

Preparing the jig. First, you must place the saw between the saw guides and saw through the corner pieces that we began with. You can see from underneath where the saw has made its way through:
Wood Font Hardwood Tree Triangle

It wouldn't hurt to put a backer board in there to prevent any tearout. That is important because those corner boards will act as backer boards when you do the sawing on your actual boxes.

Now you can adjust the fence to where your saw kerf will be at the top of your corner spline and clamp or screw it in place. Then place your box in a vise with one corner facing up and place the jig on the box, making sure the fence rests up against your box and make your first cut:
Material property Wood Parallel Beige Font


Repeat this for all four corners. If you intende to have both lower and upper splines, turn the box over and cut those now as well. Now make a shim equal to the thickness of your desired corner spline minus the width of your saw kerf. So if your saw kerf is 1/32" and you want a 1/8" spline, then make your shim 3/32" thick. I've shown my shim here as 5" x 5" with the lower corner nipped off to accomodate the box being held in the vise:
Rectangle Wood Material property Parallel Font


Once the second kerf is cut, the waste would be removed using a narrow 1/8" chisel. You can undercut the waste removal to assure that the splines meet both edges when installed.

To accomodate a shallower kerf, simply add shims to the top of the saw blade guides.

This is but one way that this can be accomplished. There are many other ways that could work equally as well. I'm just presenting this one as it would probably be my first choice, given my skill level and available weapons. Feel free to provide any and all comments or constructive criticism. :)
 

Attachments

#46 ·
Corner Splines Without a Tablesaw

I've seen questions here on LJ asking how to cut accurate splines with weapons other than a table saw. The obvious next choice might be a router. But what if you wanted them thinner than you could get with either of those?

I'm gonna suggest a good hand saw. Some can do them freehand with a hand saw. I'm not that good yet so my choice would be to build a Jig. (Or at least a SU drawing :).

First order of business would be saw selection. Although some of the larger saws might work, I'm gonna suggest a nice Dovetail Saw. If we are cutting corner splines on a nice mitered box, then we will be ripping. Therefore, we would prefer a saw with a rip tooth configuration. In actuallity, I'll bet a Tennon saw would work pretty well too. The main requirement for the saw would be that it have a spine. You might suggest that it would rule out the Japanese pull saws but I say they could be configured to work. Alls ya godda do is configure a spine for them. That shouldn't be too tough of a task for most folks. I'd say clamp the spine with the smallest of clamps to not increase the weight of the saw too much though.

On to the jig (my favorite part). Here's an initial design that I believe would fit the bill for most woodworkers. It is not too difficult to build and should accomodate most any appropriate saw.
Wood Rectangle Font Parallel Metal


Lets break this down a bit. The basic jig starts with a corner brace attached with a butt joint:
Rectangle Triangle Wood Beige Tent


Dimensions are not all that critical. Just use what you have available in the shop. Mine happen to be 4" x 8" x 3/4". As with most jigs, I would suggest either MDF or some Baltic Birch plywood.

Next are the saw blade guides(Refined):
Rectangle Wood Triangle Shade Wood stain

These are are a glue-up of a 1/2" strip and two 3" triangles. These are glued up separately, lightly planed, then installed. Note the grain direction for maximum strength if using solid wood.

Attach the Blade Guides. Draw a perpendicular line on the corner braces and attach the blade guides to the corner braces. You could glue the first one and wait till the glue dries or glue them both at the same time. Either way, you'll use your saw to accomodate for the gap between the two guides:
Triangle Material property Font Rectangle Wood


To accomodate for the set in the teeth on the saw, you can add strips of tape on the blade. What you are after is to have the two saw blade guides perfectly parallel. Use the saw alternataly on both slopes to set the width of the kerf gap. You'll want this snug. If it is too tight after gluing, you'll easilly be able to remove the tape on the saw and saw through to open it up properly.

Now for the fence. The fence determines how far from the top/bottom of the box that the saw kerf will be. I just used two 4" x 4" blocks fastened together:
Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades


This fence will be held in place with a small C-Clamp when using the jig:
Wood Sleeve Font Beige Rectangle

I suppose you could screw it in place as well. Actually, that's probably what I would end up doing.

Preparing the jig. First, you must place the saw between the saw guides and saw through the corner pieces that we began with. You can see from underneath where the saw has made its way through:
Wood Font Hardwood Tree Triangle

It wouldn't hurt to put a backer board in there to prevent any tearout. That is important because those corner boards will act as backer boards when you do the sawing on your actual boxes.

Now you can adjust the fence to where your saw kerf will be at the top of your corner spline and clamp or screw it in place. Then place your box in a vise with one corner facing up and place the jig on the box, making sure the fence rests up against your box and make your first cut:
Material property Wood Parallel Beige Font


Repeat this for all four corners. If you intende to have both lower and upper splines, turn the box over and cut those now as well. Now make a shim equal to the thickness of your desired corner spline minus the width of your saw kerf. So if your saw kerf is 1/32" and you want a 1/8" spline, then make your shim 3/32" thick. I've shown my shim here as 5" x 5" with the lower corner nipped off to accomodate the box being held in the vise:
Rectangle Wood Material property Parallel Font


Once the second kerf is cut, the waste would be removed using a narrow 1/8" chisel. You can undercut the waste removal to assure that the splines meet both edges when installed.

To accomodate a shallower kerf, simply add shims to the top of the saw blade guides.

This is but one way that this can be accomplished. There are many other ways that could work equally as well. I'm just presenting this one as it would probably be my first choice, given my skill level and available weapons. Feel free to provide any and all comments or constructive criticism. :)
Nice Approach!

Sure beats a Table Saw when all you want to do is a small spline…
 

Attachments

#50 ·
The Inevitible Push Block

Rectangle Slope Automotive exterior Font Parallel


Of all of the jigs in the woodshop, the push block or push stick is usually one of the first that is built. I have qualifications that govern a utilitarian project like this. For one, I rarely purchase materials since scraps can often suffice. Other parameters are to make minimal cuts and processing since these are not that critical. I much prefer wooden push blocks over the plastic ones I've seeen. The plastic ones(besides having to be purchased) seem to not grip the wood as they need to in making a safe cut. I also prefer MDF over plywood.

When taking the time to make a push block, it makes sense to make multiples. I've purposefully shaped it to nest well when making multiples. A piece of 10" x 48" stock can easilly yield 8 blanks:
Azure Rectangle Cartoon Gesture Vehicle door

These can easilly be separated using a bandsaw to zig zag between the rows(shown in Red). Then follow with crosscutting the individual rough blocks.

One failure of most push blocks IMO is that the heel seems to get chewed up quicker than the base so I've incorporated a replacable heel. In this design, the the heel AND the block can both be 'refreshed' by simply trimming off 1/4" from the bottom. Anticipating this, I've included about 1.5" of solid material on the bottom of the base for just that purpose. The heel can also be replace as needed. It is retained using a 3/4" long brass screw. Brass is used in case of a blade strike so your saw blade won't be damaged. Here's a skeletal view so you can see how the heel fits in place:
Azure Rectangle Aqua Electric blue Font

Rectangle Gesture Font Line Material property


You can also quickly raise the heel in situations when you are ripping thin material. If the heel is touching the table, then the pushblock is not doing all it was intended to do. The heel should never prevent the bottom of the block from fully contacting the wood.

The build:
Begin with making the heel. It is simply a 1/2" square stock of pine or hardwood.
Slope Sleeve Rectangle Parallel Font


Next, prepare a 6" x 10" block of 3/4" MDF or plywood for the base. Make a slightly loose 1/2" x 1/2" kerf, 1/2" from the rear of the block.
Rectangle Parallel Triangle Drawing Line art

To get the width of this kerf perfect the first time, you can fit it to the heel using your favorite KerfMaker. I use my Disposable one. To achieve the slightly loose fit, when gauging the heel, add a shim of paper as a fudge factor.

Now laminate a 1/8" cover to the base. Be sure to not get glue inside the slot for the heel.
Rectangle Wood Font Parallel Beige


All that is left now is to add the handle and shape the outside. I start by drilling two holes for the handle. I use a 1.25" Forstner bit for the ends and then 'connect the dots' using a scrollsaw or jigsaw. You can go the extra mile of making a template for smoothing it up with a router and a flush cut bit.
Rectangle Wood Parallel Font Circle


Lastly, round over all the outer edges(except for the bottom) to make it more comfortable to use. Drill for and install the brass heel-retainer screw and "Bob's your uncle". :)

There is, however, one situation that this block is not well suited for and that is for ripping very thin stock. For those instances, I suggest making one of these completely out of the base 3/4" material with an integral heel. The reason is that for ripping very thin strips(1/8" or less), the heel should fit flush to the fence so that it can push the thin strip on past the blade. Of course there are other better ways for ripping thin stock which I'll be covering in a future episode.

For those situations, here's the solid version:

Rectangle Automotive exterior Auto part Beige Comfort


Edit: Actually, if you don't share a shop with others and you can manage your push blocks, if you keep 3 - 4 dedicated to particular width cuts, then they don't tend to get nearly as chewed up and you might do well with the solid version shown last.
 

Attachments

#51 ·
The Inevitible Push Block



Of all of the jigs in the woodshop, the push block or push stick is usually one of the first that is built. I have qualifications that govern a utilitarian project like this. For one, I rarely purchase materials since scraps can often suffice. Other parameters are to make minimal cuts and processing since these are not that critical. I much prefer wooden push blocks over the plastic ones I've seeen. The plastic ones(besides having to be purchased) seem to not grip the wood as they need to in making a safe cut. I also prefer MDF over plywood.

When taking the time to make a push block, it makes sense to make multiples. I've purposefully shaped it to nest well when making multiples. A piece of 10" x 48" stock can easilly yield 8 blanks:

These can easilly be separated using a bandsaw to zig zag between the rows(shown in Red). Then follow with crosscutting the individual rough blocks.

One failure of most push blocks IMO is that the heel seems to get chewed up quicker than the base so I've incorporated a replacable heel. In this design, the the heel AND the block can both be 'refreshed' by simply trimming off 1/4" from the bottom. Anticipating this, I've included about 1.5" of solid material on the bottom of the base for just that purpose. The heel can also be replace as needed. It is retained using a 3/4" long brass screw. Brass is used in case of a blade strike so your saw blade won't be damaged. Here's a skeletal view so you can see how the heel fits in place:



You can also quickly raise the heel in situations when you are ripping thin material. If the heel is touching the table, then the pushblock is not doing all it was intended to do. The heel should never prevent the bottom of the block from fully contacting the wood.

The build:
Begin with making the heel. It is simply a 1/2" square stock of pine or hardwood.


Next, prepare a 6" x 10" block of 3/4" MDF or plywood for the base. Make a slightly loose 1/2" x 1/2" kerf, 1/2" from the rear of the block.

To get the width of this kerf perfect the first time, you can fit it to the heel using your favorite KerfMaker. I use my Disposable one. To achieve the slightly loose fit, when gauging the heel, add a shim of paper as a fudge factor.

Now laminate a 1/8" cover to the base. Be sure to not get glue inside the slot for the heel.


All that is left now is to add the handle and shape the outside. I start by drilling two holes for the handle. I use a 1.25" Forstner bit for the ends and then 'connect the dots' using a scrollsaw or jigsaw. You can go the extra mile of making a template for smoothing it up with a router and a flush cut bit.


Lastly, round over all the outer edges(except for the bottom) to make it more comfortable to use. Drill for and install the brass heel-retainer screw and "Bob's your uncle". :)

There is, however, one situation that this block is not well suited for and that is for ripping very thin stock. For those instances, I suggest making one of these completely out of the base 3/4" material with an integral heel. The reason is that for ripping very thin strips(1/8" or less), the heel should fit flush to the fence so that it can push the thin strip on past the blade. Of course there are other better ways for ripping thin stock which I'll be covering in a future episode.

For those situations, here's the solid version:



Edit: Actually, if you don't share a shop with others and you can manage your push blocks, if you keep 3 - 4 dedicated to particular width cuts, then they don't tend to get nearly as chewed up and you might do well with the solid version shown last.
Now that is a work of art…
 

Attachments

#61 ·
Question on Wood Rack Installation

I'm installing a wood rack I built and would appreciate any input as to mounting. This is going in a dingy basement. In fact, it is going in the only room remaining that still has a dirt floor. The rack has been built and consists of 4 vertical supports as follows:

Font Rectangle Parallel Drawing Diagram


The room where it is going looks something like this:

Rectangle Wood Brick Wood stain Font


The rack will be mounted on the right-hand wall like this:

Rectangle Wood House Building Parallel


The vertical pieces will be supported by a simple 2Ă—4 lying flat on the floor. Verticals will be toe-nailed to it, or more likely screwed to it(toe-nail style). The upper ends will sit flat against the joist by the wall. My question has to with fastening the upper part securely. I'm considering a simple 2Ă—4 block(shown in gold) with the center cut out and installed as follows:

Wood Brick Rectangle Urban design Material property


I will be screwing into the left end of the block through the left-hand joist and toe-nailing it on the right end to that first joist. Connection will be entirely with the joists. No connection to the flooring above. Would you consider this sufficient or is more blocking needed? I've calculated a maximum load of about 150 lbs on each support. That is the maximum. I doubt they'll get more than 100 in actuallity.

Suggestions, comments?
 

Attachments

#62 ·
Question on Wood Rack Installation

I'm installing a wood rack I built and would appreciate any input as to mounting. This is going in a dingy basement. In fact, it is going in the only room remaining that still has a dirt floor. The rack has been built and consists of 4 vertical supports as follows:

Font Rectangle Parallel Drawing Diagram


The room where it is going looks something like this:

Rectangle Wood Brick Wood stain Font


The rack will be mounted on the right-hand wall like this:

Rectangle Wood House Building Parallel


The vertical pieces will be supported by a simple 2Ă—4 lying flat on the floor. Verticals will be toe-nailed to it, or more likely screwed to it(toe-nail style). The upper ends will sit flat against the joist by the wall. My question has to with fastening the upper part securely. I'm considering a simple 2Ă—4 block(shown in gold) with the center cut out and installed as follows:

Wood Brick Rectangle Urban design Material property


I will be screwing into the left end of the block through the left-hand joist and toe-nailing it on the right end to that first joist. Connection will be entirely with the joists. No connection to the flooring above. Would you consider this sufficient or is more blocking needed? I've calculated a maximum load of about 150 lbs on each support. That is the maximum. I doubt they'll get more than 100 in actuallity.

Suggestions, comments?
Those should work just fine! In fact, more than fine. At the top of a wood rack, it's all pull out force, very little down force on the fasteners as the weight is supported by the floor. So what you are doing is pinning the upright against the joist and using the adjacent joist to keep the top from tipping away from the wall.

The only thing that worries me is the dirt floor. If it shifts of compresses, then all your weight is hanging from your fasteners. You might consider using a concrete block or post pier buried in the floor beneath each vertical post to help carry the load.

I have a similar situation in my basement except it's a concrete floor and I am supporting shelf units. I have had over 2000 lbs. of stuff on those shelves and nothing has budged.
 

Attachments

#67 ·
TS Blade Holder

In pondering the best way to store my table saw blades, I came up with this design. I'm sure I've just borrowed bits & pieces from other designs and combined them here though. Isn't that the way it always happens? :)

Here's the assembled box with a few of my favorite Red, Silver, and my new Blue blades:
Rectangle Wood Font Wood stain Art
#1

My Design Criteria:
- Allow quick access to any blade without too much moving of other blades to get to the one I was after.
- Provide reasonable protection from banging the blades against each other and chipping the teeth.
- Allow a quick visual of inventory and selection.
- Hold a lot of blades without taking up a lot of space.
- Simple for anyone to build
- Oh, and lets not forget… made from cheap(or better yet, FREE) materials.

A close second was the Pizza storage system. I still believe a simple cubby hole system to hold Four or more 10" Pizza boxes would suit almost all of my requirements. Each pizza box could contain a) Rip, b) Crosscut, c) Specialty, and d) Needs Resharpened. Each box would sit on its own shelf and have a layer of cardboard to separate the blades in the box. Extra cardboard dividers would be stored under the bottom blade in each box:
Rectangle Font Material property Packaging and labeling Box
#2
Almost forgot to mention the French Cleats on the back. A wonderful idea, whoever came up with that one. The other box has FC's as well but must have been hidden when I took the snapshot.

FWIW: Did you know that you can easilly and accurately cut cardboard on your bandsaw and table saw? I've done this for years. Be a little extra cautious though. Remove all ragged edges(and staples) before attempting this. And of course, if you don't feel comfortable doing this, then don't. :)

Although I like the Pizza box design, I thought some folks would want a little bit classier holder.

I designed this at 9 1/4" deep so the blades would protrude for easy access. And at 13" x 17 1/4", it doesn't take up much wall space. Not bad for storing 20 blades and having instant access to every one. The carcase was designed at 1/2" thick with 3/32 Hardboard for the dividers.
Rectangle Font Office supplies Parallel Wood
#3
There's even storage for your favorite Dado set (or a nice Pizza).

The shelves do not go all the way to the back. This allows the inevitible sawdust accumulation to fall out the back.
Rectangle Wood Wood stain Tints and shades Font
#4
I realize that is probably overkill, but I included it here just to show how you can think ahead on your projects.

You can see from this cut-away how little riser blocks are added to every other slot to allow easier access when grasping a blade. You can also see how the shelf is slanted to keep your blades in place:
Rectangle Symmetry Electric blue Font Magenta
#5

Even the riser blocks allow for natural sawdust evacuation as they are chamfered at the back:
Rectangle Wood Line Material property Tints and shades
#6

The riser blocks are removable and could be shaped to allow for some of your 7 1/4" blades. Actually, if you're gonna do that, you might as well put the 7 1/4" blades on the bottom and all your 10" blades on the riser blocks.
Rectangle Wood World Art Font
#7

Get creative, and save some space. Any and all suggestions are welcome.

EDIT: The vertical hardboard dividers don't have to be glued in. They could be removable as well.
 

Attachments

#68 ·
TS Blade Holder

In pondering the best way to store my table saw blades, I came up with this design. I'm sure I've just borrowed bits & pieces from other designs and combined them here though. Isn't that the way it always happens? :)

Here's the assembled box with a few of my favorite Red, Silver, and my new Blue blades:
Rectangle Wood Font Wood stain Art
#1

My Design Criteria:
- Allow quick access to any blade without too much moving of other blades to get to the one I was after.
- Provide reasonable protection from banging the blades against each other and chipping the teeth.
- Allow a quick visual of inventory and selection.
- Hold a lot of blades without taking up a lot of space.
- Simple for anyone to build
- Oh, and lets not forget… made from cheap(or better yet, FREE) materials.

A close second was the Pizza storage system. I still believe a simple cubby hole system to hold Four or more 10" Pizza boxes would suit almost all of my requirements. Each pizza box could contain a) Rip, b) Crosscut, c) Specialty, and d) Needs Resharpened. Each box would sit on its own shelf and have a layer of cardboard to separate the blades in the box. Extra cardboard dividers would be stored under the bottom blade in each box:
Rectangle Font Material property Packaging and labeling Box
#2
Almost forgot to mention the French Cleats on the back. A wonderful idea, whoever came up with that one. The other box has FC's as well but must have been hidden when I took the snapshot.

FWIW: Did you know that you can easilly and accurately cut cardboard on your bandsaw and table saw? I've done this for years. Be a little extra cautious though. Remove all ragged edges(and staples) before attempting this. And of course, if you don't feel comfortable doing this, then don't. :)

Although I like the Pizza box design, I thought some folks would want a little bit classier holder.

I designed this at 9 1/4" deep so the blades would protrude for easy access. And at 13" x 17 1/4", it doesn't take up much wall space. Not bad for storing 20 blades and having instant access to every one. The carcase was designed at 1/2" thick with 3/32 Hardboard for the dividers.
Rectangle Font Office supplies Parallel Wood
#3
There's even storage for your favorite Dado set (or a nice Pizza).

The shelves do not go all the way to the back. This allows the inevitible sawdust accumulation to fall out the back.
Rectangle Wood Wood stain Tints and shades Font
#4
I realize that is probably overkill, but I included it here just to show how you can think ahead on your projects.

You can see from this cut-away how little riser blocks are added to every other slot to allow easier access when grasping a blade. You can also see how the shelf is slanted to keep your blades in place:
Rectangle Symmetry Electric blue Font Magenta
#5

Even the riser blocks allow for natural sawdust evacuation as they are chamfered at the back:
Rectangle Wood Line Material property Tints and shades
#6

The riser blocks are removable and could be shaped to allow for some of your 7 1/4" blades. Actually, if you're gonna do that, you might as well put the 7 1/4" blades on the bottom and all your 10" blades on the riser blocks.
Rectangle Wood World Art Font
#7

Get creative, and save some space. Any and all suggestions are welcome.

EDIT: The vertical hardboard dividers don't have to be glued in. They could be removable as well.
I like it. Very compact and easy to get the blades in and out. Good job on the sketches. Thanks for sharing.
 

Attachments

#75 ·
A 'Sheet Sled' (for your Truck)

This was spurred from David's thread in searching for a way to haul plywood in a small truck. I came up with a 'Bed Sled' and kept modifying it. I thought rather than taking over his thread, I'd offer it here.

Rectangle Shade Slope Parallel Tints and shades

Triangle Wood Rectangle Parallel Electric blue

Notice the Grocery Bag corrall up front.

The 'Z' system in the center is hinged and can be folded up and laid flat. When set up, it sits on top of and locks in place(with a half lap) over the rear support. The rear support sits on top of and locks in place(also with a half lap) with the rear cross beam. The cross beam keeps the 'Z' from sliding out of the back of the truck when you drag race home from the BORG.

2Ă—4's, a piece of ply, and some hinges.

No plans per-se. Building procedure:
  • Cut the length of the rear cross brace to fit snug side to side at the rear of the bed.
  • Build the 'Z' rails to a length to fit tight between the front of the bed and the rear cross support.
  • Build the rear center support the same height as the 'Z' unit and half lap it to the bottom of the plywood in the 'Z' and half lap on TOP of the rear cross support.

A closer view of the half lap arrangement.
Azure Building Triangle Parallel House

Also notice the addition of a center support block to prevent sagging.

You can also see here where a rope can be attached to the 'Z' to keep the sheetgoods from falling out.
Rectangle Slope Shade Tints and shades Parallel


Note: This was an earlier snapshot before I flipped the 'Z' around. Build it like in the first pic so your groceries will be on the driver's side up front. You want them on the rigid side, not the floppy side of the 'Z'. Also note that the rope should be tied to the left REAR, not the left FRONT.

On the way to the lumber yard.
Triangle Slope Rectangle Parallel Font


Diassembled.
Skyscraper Wood Rectangle Parallel Automotive exterior


Stacked for storing in the garage.
Rectangle Wood Slope Parallel Font
 

Attachments

#76 ·
A 'Sheet Sled' (for your Truck)

This was spurred from David's thread in searching for a way to haul plywood in a small truck. I came up with a 'Bed Sled' and kept modifying it. I thought rather than taking over his thread, I'd offer it here.

Rectangle Shade Slope Parallel Tints and shades

Triangle Wood Rectangle Parallel Electric blue

Notice the Grocery Bag corrall up front.

The 'Z' system in the center is hinged and can be folded up and laid flat. When set up, it sits on top of and locks in place(with a half lap) over the rear support. The rear support sits on top of and locks in place(also with a half lap) with the rear cross beam. The cross beam keeps the 'Z' from sliding out of the back of the truck when you drag race home from the BORG.

2Ă—4's, a piece of ply, and some hinges.

No plans per-se. Building procedure:
  • Cut the length of the rear cross brace to fit snug side to side at the rear of the bed.
  • Build the 'Z' rails to a length to fit tight between the front of the bed and the rear cross support.
  • Build the rear center support the same height as the 'Z' unit and half lap it to the bottom of the plywood in the 'Z' and half lap on TOP of the rear cross support.

A closer view of the half lap arrangement.
Azure Building Triangle Parallel House

Also notice the addition of a center support block to prevent sagging.

You can also see here where a rope can be attached to the 'Z' to keep the sheetgoods from falling out.
Rectangle Slope Shade Tints and shades Parallel


Note: This was an earlier snapshot before I flipped the 'Z' around. Build it like in the first pic so your groceries will be on the driver's side up front. You want them on the rigid side, not the floppy side of the 'Z'. Also note that the rope should be tied to the left REAR, not the left FRONT.

On the way to the lumber yard.
Triangle Slope Rectangle Parallel Font


Diassembled.
Skyscraper Wood Rectangle Parallel Automotive exterior


Stacked for storing in the garage.
Rectangle Wood Slope Parallel Font
Hmm… looks familiar
 

Attachments

#86 ·
Sanding Sheet Holder

When I make boxes, I typically tape down a full sheet of 150 grit sandpaper to the Table Saw to level the top and bottom of the boxes after they are glued up. The TS is one of the few dead flat surfaces in the shop where I teach. Being as this is a 'portable' situation, this is a pain because of having to tape and untape it each time. I want something to slap down on a bench and be able to quickly grab it to take it with me at the end of the day.

I've seen the ones using clip-board clips but the clips stick up too high for my liking. Here's what I came up with:
Wood Rectangle Electric blue Composite material Pattern


I can clip a full sheet of sandpaper to it along the edge with readilly available binder clips, giving me use of almost the entire sheet of paper. The 3/4" MDF board has a 1/2" rabbet all the way around to allow it to sit flat on the workbench without resting on the binder clips as shown here:
Brown Wood Rectangle Font Hardwood

In making this Rabbet, I've found that binder clips work best if they are opened up to almost their full capacity. You might gauge your rabbet to make this happen with the size of binder clips you plan on using.

By adding a 3/4" dowel to the center of the bottom, it holds itself in place on any bench with dog holes.
Brown Rectangle Wood Beige Font


Gluing some 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom might be a good addition to keep it from spinning. I think this will be just the ticket for my mobile needs.
 

Attachments

#87 ·
Sanding Sheet Holder

When I make boxes, I typically tape down a full sheet of 150 grit sandpaper to the Table Saw to level the top and bottom of the boxes after they are glued up. The TS is one of the few dead flat surfaces in the shop where I teach. Being as this is a 'portable' situation, this is a pain because of having to tape and untape it each time. I want something to slap down on a bench and be able to quickly grab it to take it with me at the end of the day.

I've seen the ones using clip-board clips but the clips stick up too high for my liking. Here's what I came up with:
Wood Rectangle Electric blue Composite material Pattern


I can clip a full sheet of sandpaper to it along the edge with readilly available binder clips, giving me use of almost the entire sheet of paper. The 3/4" MDF board has a 1/2" rabbet all the way around to allow it to sit flat on the workbench without resting on the binder clips as shown here:
Brown Wood Rectangle Font Hardwood

In making this Rabbet, I've found that binder clips work best if they are opened up to almost their full capacity. You might gauge your rabbet to make this happen with the size of binder clips you plan on using.

By adding a 3/4" dowel to the center of the bottom, it holds itself in place on any bench with dog holes.
Brown Rectangle Wood Beige Font


Gluing some 220 grit sandpaper to the bottom might be a good addition to keep it from spinning. I think this will be just the ticket for my mobile needs.
I have a cutout of granite from where a kitchen sink went. I tape sandpaper to this for the same purpose. Works great but it is heavy. I just put it in the corner when not using it.
 

Attachments

#95 ·
Simple Corner Spline Jig

Here's my final version that I came up with after doing the over-thought version. I began with one that had an adjustable stop and all that but I gave it away. I like this one the best. When building it, use only glue, no metal fasteners. Dowels work if you feel you need them. The bottom plywood is not really needed but I had already built it that way. The next one prob. won't have it. The backer board(bright blue) is just double-stick-taped in place. Square might work better and you could rotate it 3 times before replacement.

Rectangle Shipping box Package delivery Font Packaging and labeling


Key features:
  • Cheap (I'm talking about the jig, not me. Well, maybe me too.)
  • Easy to build(after you give away the last one)
  • Replacable backer board
  • Works on ANY table saw

I'm mostly done with the days of building a jig to fit only one saw. I don't always work in my own shop so I want something that is not tied to a specific saw. And if the jig gets too chewed up with having different locations cut, just make another one.

... Just keeping it as simple as I can.

Edit: The side plywood piece is not really transparent plywood. I used the regular(ie. dumpster diver) kind.
 

Attachments

#96 ·
Simple Corner Spline Jig

Here's my final version that I came up with after doing the over-thought version. I began with one that had an adjustable stop and all that but I gave it away. I like this one the best. When building it, use only glue, no metal fasteners. Dowels work if you feel you need them. The bottom plywood is not really needed but I had already built it that way. The next one prob. won't have it. The backer board(bright blue) is just double-stick-taped in place. Square might work better and you could rotate it 3 times before replacement.

Rectangle Shipping box Package delivery Font Packaging and labeling


Key features:
  • Cheap (I'm talking about the jig, not me. Well, maybe me too.)
  • Easy to build(after you give away the last one)
  • Replacable backer board
  • Works on ANY table saw

I'm mostly done with the days of building a jig to fit only one saw. I don't always work in my own shop so I want something that is not tied to a specific saw. And if the jig gets too chewed up with having different locations cut, just make another one.

... Just keeping it as simple as I can.

Edit: The side plywood piece is not really transparent plywood. I used the regular(ie. dumpster diver) kind.
Wile E Coyote strikes again!
 

Attachments

#98 ·
Clamp for cutting Dovetails

I ran across the "Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking.

The article suggests drilling holes in your bench to accomodate pipe clamps to hold down a guide board. I REALLY like the clamp idea but even though I revere a bench as a consumable, I'd rather not drill THAT big of holes in it.

I've come up with an alternate solution that does not require any new holes in your bench. This means it can also be used in whomever's workshop you might visit. This is a real plus for me since I often work in other's shops.

If you straddle this block across the corner of your bench, you can achieve the same effect but not have to drill holes in your bench. I also swung the head of the clamps outwards to give more room for your hands when holding the chisel.

Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood Outdoor furniture


I drilled a blind hole for the upper pad of the clamp to keep them oriented for easier setup. Without these shallow countersinks, the clamps could easily rotate around making the tightening process difficult.

Wood Rectangle Chair Wood stain Flooring


The added slat(shown transparent), spanning the lower part of the bars, corrals the lower part of the clamps. This should make it much easier to put in place until you get the clamps tightened down (and is required once you swivel the clamps outwards).

Rectangle Wood Outdoor furniture Line Font


You'll also note that I've incorporated the more commonly found bar clamps. A wide variety of clamps could be used for this though.

Credits: Again, this is not my idea. I just enhanced the "Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. I am(again) merely standing on the shoulders of others greater than I.
 

Attachments

#99 ·
Clamp for cutting Dovetails

I ran across the "Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking.

The article suggests drilling holes in your bench to accomodate pipe clamps to hold down a guide board. I REALLY like the clamp idea but even though I revere a bench as a consumable, I'd rather not drill THAT big of holes in it.

I've come up with an alternate solution that does not require any new holes in your bench. This means it can also be used in whomever's workshop you might visit. This is a real plus for me since I often work in other's shops.

If you straddle this block across the corner of your bench, you can achieve the same effect but not have to drill holes in your bench. I also swung the head of the clamps outwards to give more room for your hands when holding the chisel.

Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood Outdoor furniture


I drilled a blind hole for the upper pad of the clamp to keep them oriented for easier setup. Without these shallow countersinks, the clamps could easily rotate around making the tightening process difficult.

Wood Rectangle Chair Wood stain Flooring


The added slat(shown transparent), spanning the lower part of the bars, corrals the lower part of the clamps. This should make it much easier to put in place until you get the clamps tightened down (and is required once you swivel the clamps outwards).

Rectangle Wood Outdoor furniture Line Font


You'll also note that I've incorporated the more commonly found bar clamps. A wide variety of clamps could be used for this though.

Credits: Again, this is not my idea. I just enhanced the "Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails" article by Michael Pekovich from Fine Woodworking. I am(again) merely standing on the shoulders of others greater than I.
Can I use this idea in my show a couple weeks from now? I'm demonstrating some hand cut dovetails on the tool cabinet and I want to try this out. If it works like it looks like it will, I'll recommend it to the viewers. (I'll give credit to both you and Fine Woodworking)
 

Attachments

#108 ·
Dovetails ...with Curves

I got my weekly(or is it daily) email from Fine Woodworking(FWW) and they had an advertisement for the beginning of a Dovetail Techniques series by Stephen Hammer on several kinds of dovetails. I watched the preview and was so fascinated with the curved dovetail that I had to mock it up in SketchUp.

Furniture Cabinetry Table Rectangle Chest of drawers


A beautiful piece of art. They gave just a glimpse of him making them in the teaser. Just enough that I was able to draw it out. Some views of the Pin board:

Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Font


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


And the Tail board:

Brown Rectangle Wood Font Varnish


Furniture Table Wood Tree Rectangle


By breaking these down to their basic shapes, and with the use of some templates, and hand(and power) tools, they should not be that difficult to build for someone who has successfully cut dovetails by hand before.

Here's one more picture that might give you a better idea of how these work:

Wood Rectangle Font Wood stain Plank
 

Attachments

#109 ·
Dovetails ...with Curves

I got my weekly(or is it daily) email from Fine Woodworking(FWW) and they had an advertisement for the beginning of a Dovetail Techniques series by Stephen Hammer on several kinds of dovetails. I watched the preview and was so fascinated with the curved dovetail that I had to mock it up in SketchUp.

Furniture Cabinetry Table Rectangle Chest of drawers


A beautiful piece of art. They gave just a glimpse of him making them in the teaser. Just enough that I was able to draw it out. Some views of the Pin board:

Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Font


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


And the Tail board:

Brown Rectangle Wood Font Varnish


Furniture Table Wood Tree Rectangle


By breaking these down to their basic shapes, and with the use of some templates, and hand(and power) tools, they should not be that difficult to build for someone who has successfully cut dovetails by hand before.

Here's one more picture that might give you a better idea of how these work:

Wood Rectangle Font Wood stain Plank
COOL DT's!

COOL Sketchup work!
 

Attachments

#112 ·
X Puzzle

Someone came up with this puzzle a long time ago. I think it was Moses, or maybe Methusula. I first saw it Here on LJ.

Wood Rectangle Ruler Natural material Hardwood


I eventually drew it out in SU. So many folks have asked for the drawing I thought I'd post it here. It should be self-explanatory.

Rectangle Parallel Font Water Diagram


PS: Obviously you'll need to make two of these pieces.
 

Attachments

#113 ·
X Puzzle

Someone came up with this puzzle a long time ago. I think it was Moses, or maybe Methusula. I first saw it Here on LJ.

Wood Rectangle Ruler Natural material Hardwood


I eventually drew it out in SU. So many folks have asked for the drawing I thought I'd post it here. It should be self-explanatory.

Rectangle Parallel Font Water Diagram


PS: Obviously you'll need to make two of these pieces.
This is a great puzzle for kids to make or play with.

Rance has taught this several times at WC in the woodworking for Kids (WW4K) class.
 

Attachments

#114 ·
Illusionist's Heart Pendant

Seeing that many folks seem to be interested in the construction of the Heart Pendant that Daftehh built, I asked him if he was planning on posting further instruction. He said he wasn't, and gave me permission to step in.

Many of you know by now that SketchUp is my Go-To tool for design. I truely use it as one of my woodworking 'tools' to determine dimensions, angles, etc. By drawing the heart out as two individual halves, I began with the basic 'Pill' shape. I experimented with the location of the diagonal separation line, but not a lot. It is actually pretty easy to locate it. You just have to make sure it is symetrical.

Circle Drawing Font Metal Titanium


Another view shows it twisted to its heart shape. As for grain direction, you can choose your own to achieve your own desired look. I've also included one option of type and placement of hook for attachment to fit my needs.

Symmetry Font Heart Triangle Fashion accessory


I will not be providing actual dimensions for this blog as they are sorta irrelevant. I imagine what most folks have the most difficulty with is the connection between the two halves. What I want to convey here primarilly is how this pendant works and how to design your own.

For my purposes, there is no reason for me to draw this to the point of actual look. Given that, I can draw a blocked style of components.

Drawing Line art Rectangle Fashion accessory Font


Looking at the half(with the hook), lying it on its back and looking directly at the edge where it joins its mirrored half, you see a mere rectangle.

Cross Rectangle Parallel Font Symbol


Locate a crosshair in the exact center of that surface. This is where you will install your swivel of choice. From a view with one face removed, you can get a better idea of the construction.

Gas Circle Auto part Fashion accessory Nickel


Be sure to not drill all the way through to the 'show' edge. I do plan on actually building one of these. On mine, I plan on using micro Rare Earth magnets to keep it in place.

Product Gesture Material property Cylinder Gas


So what are the real 'tricks'. Start with the Pill, separate it with the diagonal line. Then simply center the pivot point in the exact center of the face that meets its mating piece. Lastly, the edges can be rounded and shaped as you see fit.
 

Attachments

#115 ·
Illusionist's Heart Pendant

Seeing that many folks seem to be interested in the construction of the Heart Pendant that Daftehh built, I asked him if he was planning on posting further instruction. He said he wasn't, and gave me permission to step in.

Many of you know by now that SketchUp is my Go-To tool for design. I truely use it as one of my woodworking 'tools' to determine dimensions, angles, etc. By drawing the heart out as two individual halves, I began with the basic 'Pill' shape. I experimented with the location of the diagonal separation line, but not a lot. It is actually pretty easy to locate it. You just have to make sure it is symetrical.

Circle Drawing Font Metal Titanium


Another view shows it twisted to its heart shape. As for grain direction, you can choose your own to achieve your own desired look. I've also included one option of type and placement of hook for attachment to fit my needs.

Symmetry Font Heart Triangle Fashion accessory


I will not be providing actual dimensions for this blog as they are sorta irrelevant. I imagine what most folks have the most difficulty with is the connection between the two halves. What I want to convey here primarilly is how this pendant works and how to design your own.

For my purposes, there is no reason for me to draw this to the point of actual look. Given that, I can draw a blocked style of components.

Drawing Line art Rectangle Fashion accessory Font


Looking at the half(with the hook), lying it on its back and looking directly at the edge where it joins its mirrored half, you see a mere rectangle.

Cross Rectangle Parallel Font Symbol


Locate a crosshair in the exact center of that surface. This is where you will install your swivel of choice. From a view with one face removed, you can get a better idea of the construction.

Gas Circle Auto part Fashion accessory Nickel


Be sure to not drill all the way through to the 'show' edge. I do plan on actually building one of these. On mine, I plan on using micro Rare Earth magnets to keep it in place.

Product Gesture Material property Cylinder Gas


So what are the real 'tricks'. Start with the Pill, separate it with the diagonal line. Then simply center the pivot point in the exact center of the face that meets its mating piece. Lastly, the edges can be rounded and shaped as you see fit.
Got me thinking. May have to try this.
 

Attachments

#117 ·
How to design a Gazebo Bird House

A fellow LJ member(Belg1960) was asking about designing an Octagon Birdhouse a while back. He recently contacted me and asked if I would show him how I would do it in SketchUp. I thought I would make this public for all to see. The method that Jim Jakosh provided was certainly a good one. Every woodworker would benefit from understanding math as much as Jim does. Me, I tend to lean more on SU to do my math.

The SU method I am presenting here is but one SU approach. There are other ways to do this in SU, but this is the first one and the easiest one that came to mind for me.

Let me say that my purpose with this scenario is to use SU to tell ME the dimensions and angles rather than me having to tell SU those values. This is most often the case with me when using SU during the design.

The constraints given to me to dimension the Gazebo Bird House(GBH) were as follows:
8" diameter base
7" base height
10" diameter roof line
6.7" roof height(derrived from Jim's scale)
1" hole at the top(for finial placement)
(arbitrarilly chosen on my part)

And YES, he requested a Hexagon, not an Octagon. :)

I begin by drawing a side view profile-triangle of the roof using the given constraints(I rounded the 6.7" to 6.75"):
Slope Triangle Rectangle Parallel Plot

Note the 1/2" line on the bottom left corner. This represents the radius from the center point to the inner edge on the top where the finial will go. I also make all of this a 'Component' so it doesn't STICK to the other parts I'll be drawing.

I then lay up the profile of a 3/4" board profile where it would lie against the roof profile-triangle:
Slope Rectangle Triangle Parallel Symmetry


Next, I rotate the bottom end out to the bottom edge of the roof profile-triangle:
SU tells ME that this is 28.4 degrees. Incidently, this is the cut angle for the top & bottom of the roof panels.
Rectangle Computer Personal computer Parallel Triangle

Note how it intersects with the triangle, thus keeping space for the hole in the center and not exceeding the roof diameter. It is not just a parallel fit to the triangle.

Now I convert this roof-panel profile into an actual 3D board by flattening the top & bottom, and pushing/pulling the front and rear faces to give it depth. The goal here is to extend it in both directions further than it needs to be. 5" ought to do it. These will be trimmed off in a later step.
Triangle Electric blue Font Parallel Rectangle

I've shown it transparent so you can see how it intersects the profile-triangle. The panel itself is also made into a 'Component'.

Next, I rotate to an arial view to do the real magic. I will be copying(in a circular fashion) that panel 5 more times at 60 degrees(360/6 sides[a hexagon] = 60 degrees). Note the point of rotation around the tip of that line sticking out to the left of the profile-triangle.
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Electric blue


And here's what you end up with:
Eye Azure Human body Toy Aqua

It actually looks to be a jumbled mess doesn't it.

Lets come down a bit from the arial view and hide 4 of the panels. I also added a wooden color to the panel we will be working on:
Azure Triangle Rectangle House Tints and shades

By the way, since these panels are 'Components', then any changes I do to one, gets replicated on ALL the other panels.

Now comes the math part, but with no math at all. I draw an intersecting line where the two panels cross, from the inside intersection to the outer intersection. This is done on the top AND bottom beveled edges of the panel.
Triangle Rectangle Font Parallel Electric blue


I now edit the wooden panel itself to connect the upper intersecting line to the lower. And then remove the excess just as if I had cut it off with a saw. I have no idea at this point what that bevel angle is that I just created. Later I'll just measure it using SU. And here's what I'm left with:
Wood Rectangle Slope Wood stain Beige

Note that I also hid that one remaining blue panel to help eliminate some confusion to the non-SU users.

I now repeat the beveling for the other edge using the adjacent panel on the opposite edge:
Wood Tree Parallel Slope Art

But what am I looking at? Because these panels are 'Components', any change I do to one, happens to them ALL. Even if I have them hidden.

I can simply copy that one beveled face(now shown in wood veneer for easy identification):
Slope Rectangle Parallel Plot Font


Then paste it onto my all-wood panel:
Rectangle Wood Font Plywood Triangle

BTW, I do this using one of the most unused, but most useful features of SU, 'Paste In Place'.

I finish up the panel by simply removing the excess on that other edge of the panel. And what I'm left with is a perfectly formed panel. In fact, if I unhide all the panels, they are all perfectly formed, and with precisely correct beveled edges:
Triangle Tent Shade Symmetry Electric blue


So now, how do we cut these panels? More accurately, how do we measure the bevels? I simply make a copy of one of the panels, lay it down on a flat surface and measure the angles using the Protractor Tool in SU. We already know that the top and bottom bevels are 28.4 degrees:
Slope Rectangle Wood Parallel Triangle


The side angles for the panels are 15.3 degrees:
Triangle Slope Rectangle Font Parallel


And the bevels themselves are 26.1 degrees:
Rectangle Slope Parallel Font Diagram


And all the other pertinent dimensions:
Rectangle Slope Shade Parallel Tree


OK, now for the base. We are looking for a 8" diameter base at a height of 7". So we do a similar procedure, but it is easier because we don't have to tilt the panels. I won't bore you with the details of this, other than the differences. For the base, I build it extra long, then raise it up into the roof until the top of the inner edge touches the roof panel. I then draw lines that can be used to bevel off the side panels. It is easier to do when having just one roof panel, and one side panel visible:
Rectangle Wood Triangle Parallel Shade


And with most panels in place:
Triangle House Rectangle Tree Pyramid


I drew a 7" vertical line from the base of the roof, downward. This gave me a general idea of how tall to make the actual sides. They need to stick down below the lower roof line 7", but they are actually taller since they go up into the roof where they attach.
Triangle Shade Building House Rectangle


Well that's about it. Any comments, criticisms, and suggestions are welcome. I hope this gives you some new ideas on how to use SU in your future projects.

Oh, and that bevel angle for the tops of the side panels, well that would be 90-(the bottom angle of the roof panel: 28.4 deg.), ie. 61.6 degrees, right? And the side bevels of any hexagonal box are 60 degrees.

And with the finish applied:
Wood Rectangle Triangle Lamp Hardwood
 

Attachments

#118 ·
How to design a Gazebo Bird House

A fellow LJ member(Belg1960) was asking about designing an Octagon Birdhouse a while back. He recently contacted me and asked if I would show him how I would do it in SketchUp. I thought I would make this public for all to see. The method that Jim Jakosh provided was certainly a good one. Every woodworker would benefit from understanding math as much as Jim does. Me, I tend to lean more on SU to do my math.

The SU method I am presenting here is but one SU approach. There are other ways to do this in SU, but this is the first one and the easiest one that came to mind for me.

Let me say that my purpose with this scenario is to use SU to tell ME the dimensions and angles rather than me having to tell SU those values. This is most often the case with me when using SU during the design.

The constraints given to me to dimension the Gazebo Bird House(GBH) were as follows:
8" diameter base
7" base height
10" diameter roof line
6.7" roof height(derrived from Jim's scale)
1" hole at the top(for finial placement)
(arbitrarilly chosen on my part)

And YES, he requested a Hexagon, not an Octagon. :)

I begin by drawing a side view profile-triangle of the roof using the given constraints(I rounded the 6.7" to 6.75"):
Slope Triangle Rectangle Parallel Plot

Note the 1/2" line on the bottom left corner. This represents the radius from the center point to the inner edge on the top where the finial will go. I also make all of this a 'Component' so it doesn't STICK to the other parts I'll be drawing.

I then lay up the profile of a 3/4" board profile where it would lie against the roof profile-triangle:
Slope Rectangle Triangle Parallel Symmetry


Next, I rotate the bottom end out to the bottom edge of the roof profile-triangle:
SU tells ME that this is 28.4 degrees. Incidently, this is the cut angle for the top & bottom of the roof panels.
Rectangle Computer Personal computer Parallel Triangle

Note how it intersects with the triangle, thus keeping space for the hole in the center and not exceeding the roof diameter. It is not just a parallel fit to the triangle.

Now I convert this roof-panel profile into an actual 3D board by flattening the top & bottom, and pushing/pulling the front and rear faces to give it depth. The goal here is to extend it in both directions further than it needs to be. 5" ought to do it. These will be trimmed off in a later step.
Triangle Electric blue Font Parallel Rectangle

I've shown it transparent so you can see how it intersects the profile-triangle. The panel itself is also made into a 'Component'.

Next, I rotate to an arial view to do the real magic. I will be copying(in a circular fashion) that panel 5 more times at 60 degrees(360/6 sides[a hexagon] = 60 degrees). Note the point of rotation around the tip of that line sticking out to the left of the profile-triangle.
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Electric blue


And here's what you end up with:
Eye Azure Human body Toy Aqua

It actually looks to be a jumbled mess doesn't it.

Lets come down a bit from the arial view and hide 4 of the panels. I also added a wooden color to the panel we will be working on:
Azure Triangle Rectangle House Tints and shades

By the way, since these panels are 'Components', then any changes I do to one, gets replicated on ALL the other panels.

Now comes the math part, but with no math at all. I draw an intersecting line where the two panels cross, from the inside intersection to the outer intersection. This is done on the top AND bottom beveled edges of the panel.
Triangle Rectangle Font Parallel Electric blue


I now edit the wooden panel itself to connect the upper intersecting line to the lower. And then remove the excess just as if I had cut it off with a saw. I have no idea at this point what that bevel angle is that I just created. Later I'll just measure it using SU. And here's what I'm left with:
Wood Rectangle Slope Wood stain Beige

Note that I also hid that one remaining blue panel to help eliminate some confusion to the non-SU users.

I now repeat the beveling for the other edge using the adjacent panel on the opposite edge:
Wood Tree Parallel Slope Art

But what am I looking at? Because these panels are 'Components', any change I do to one, happens to them ALL. Even if I have them hidden.

I can simply copy that one beveled face(now shown in wood veneer for easy identification):
Slope Rectangle Parallel Plot Font


Then paste it onto my all-wood panel:
Rectangle Wood Font Plywood Triangle

BTW, I do this using one of the most unused, but most useful features of SU, 'Paste In Place'.

I finish up the panel by simply removing the excess on that other edge of the panel. And what I'm left with is a perfectly formed panel. In fact, if I unhide all the panels, they are all perfectly formed, and with precisely correct beveled edges:
Triangle Tent Shade Symmetry Electric blue


So now, how do we cut these panels? More accurately, how do we measure the bevels? I simply make a copy of one of the panels, lay it down on a flat surface and measure the angles using the Protractor Tool in SU. We already know that the top and bottom bevels are 28.4 degrees:
Slope Rectangle Wood Parallel Triangle


The side angles for the panels are 15.3 degrees:
Triangle Slope Rectangle Font Parallel


And the bevels themselves are 26.1 degrees:
Rectangle Slope Parallel Font Diagram


And all the other pertinent dimensions:
Rectangle Slope Shade Parallel Tree


OK, now for the base. We are looking for a 8" diameter base at a height of 7". So we do a similar procedure, but it is easier because we don't have to tilt the panels. I won't bore you with the details of this, other than the differences. For the base, I build it extra long, then raise it up into the roof until the top of the inner edge touches the roof panel. I then draw lines that can be used to bevel off the side panels. It is easier to do when having just one roof panel, and one side panel visible:
Rectangle Wood Triangle Parallel Shade


And with most panels in place:
Triangle House Rectangle Tree Pyramid


I drew a 7" vertical line from the base of the roof, downward. This gave me a general idea of how tall to make the actual sides. They need to stick down below the lower roof line 7", but they are actually taller since they go up into the roof where they attach.
Triangle Shade Building House Rectangle


Well that's about it. Any comments, criticisms, and suggestions are welcome. I hope this gives you some new ideas on how to use SU in your future projects.

Oh, and that bevel angle for the tops of the side panels, well that would be 90-(the bottom angle of the roof panel: 28.4 deg.), ie. 61.6 degrees, right? And the side bevels of any hexagonal box are 60 degrees.

And with the finish applied:
Wood Rectangle Triangle Lamp Hardwood
Really great tutorial. Thanks for posting. I will have to try this soon to see if I can duplicate your results.

I just discovered your design series. Many thought provoking designs.
 

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