Wall / Portable Tool Rack
I seem to have a lot of SU drawings that I do that may or may not ever be built. Either way, I thought others might benefit from them.
This first one is a paged tool rack similar to ones I'm sure you've seen in several publications. Some I like, some I see blatant flaws in. This style reminds me of the days way back when I would go to the Dept. Store and look at the blacklight posters.
A couple of changes I've made include being able to quickly and easily remove it from the wall mount and work with it on the bench. For less used tools, they could just as easilly be stored on a shelf or slid into a purpose-built cubby hole.
I also designed this with single 3/8" plexiglass panels to more easilly find the tool you are looking for. Plywood can easilly be used in place of the plexiglass. I chose against the sometimes more popular peg board for a reason. For me, once I decide where I wanted to hang something on the wall, it pretty much didn't ever change. If it ever did, I didn't mind the holes it left behind in the cases where I just used plywood.
I designed these for square panels, making the frame pieces ALL the same length. This aleviates having Rails and Stiles that are manufactured differently, making it easier to build.
Here's the frame assembly. For the life of me, I cannot recall why I needed the gussets on all 4 corners. The two on the dowel side are mostly cosmetic to cover up the dowels, simply glued in place. It was expected that the holes for the dowels would be drilled after each rack was assembled.
EDIT: More pictures:
Here's a better view of one of the Racks.
And some details of the 2Ă—4's holding it to the wall. Lag bolts/washers holding it to the wall are not shown. The washers could be cut from a milk jug. In addition, a support block under the lower support might be in order.
Lastly, a shot looking down the end of the upper support with the end face removed. Note the vertical holes on this support. Once drilled, carefully tilt the support about 10 degrees to 'waller out' the hole, but only forwards. This allows the upper dowel to be rotated the 9 degrees needed for removal of each of the racks.
Caveat: As with most of my projects and designs, I stand on the shoulders of those that have gone before me. It is infinitely easier to modify a good design someone else dreamed up than to come up with the whole thing on my own. All comments, suggestions, and criticisms are welcome.
I seem to have a lot of SU drawings that I do that may or may not ever be built. Either way, I thought others might benefit from them.
This first one is a paged tool rack similar to ones I'm sure you've seen in several publications. Some I like, some I see blatant flaws in. This style reminds me of the days way back when I would go to the Dept. Store and look at the blacklight posters.
A couple of changes I've made include being able to quickly and easily remove it from the wall mount and work with it on the bench. For less used tools, they could just as easilly be stored on a shelf or slid into a purpose-built cubby hole.
I also designed this with single 3/8" plexiglass panels to more easilly find the tool you are looking for. Plywood can easilly be used in place of the plexiglass. I chose against the sometimes more popular peg board for a reason. For me, once I decide where I wanted to hang something on the wall, it pretty much didn't ever change. If it ever did, I didn't mind the holes it left behind in the cases where I just used plywood.
I designed these for square panels, making the frame pieces ALL the same length. This aleviates having Rails and Stiles that are manufactured differently, making it easier to build.
Here's the frame assembly. For the life of me, I cannot recall why I needed the gussets on all 4 corners. The two on the dowel side are mostly cosmetic to cover up the dowels, simply glued in place. It was expected that the holes for the dowels would be drilled after each rack was assembled.
EDIT: More pictures:
Here's a better view of one of the Racks.
And some details of the 2Ă—4's holding it to the wall. Lag bolts/washers holding it to the wall are not shown. The washers could be cut from a milk jug. In addition, a support block under the lower support might be in order.
Lastly, a shot looking down the end of the upper support with the end face removed. Note the vertical holes on this support. Once drilled, carefully tilt the support about 10 degrees to 'waller out' the hole, but only forwards. This allows the upper dowel to be rotated the 9 degrees needed for removal of each of the racks.
Caveat: As with most of my projects and designs, I stand on the shoulders of those that have gone before me. It is infinitely easier to modify a good design someone else dreamed up than to come up with the whole thing on my own. All comments, suggestions, and criticisms are welcome.