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Modern Sawboard #2: Version 2.0

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Blog entry by chopnhack posted 04-02-2012 03:55 AM 3609 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 1: Brainstorming for ideas... Part 2 of Modern Sawboard series no next part

And the brainstorming continues:

After much thought, the necessary thickness to recess the t-track would make the jig too thick to allow for use with the router, there simply would not be enough depth left to work with. Why build just a sawboard?

On to version 2.0:

This sawboard would double as a routerboard on the left side. Base made up of 2 lengths of 3/16” hardboard glued together. Guide on top would be 1”x2” aluminum rect. tube with a groove cut out for 4 feet, same on base in that area such that a 1/4” bolt could pass through. The top would still have a t piece across to register one side of the ply to be cut. The bolt would attach to a block below and then be tighten from above allowing a fairly quick adjusting jig. Maybe not as quick as the toggle but not too bad. Wondering if there will be too much play/angle splay to keep the piece restrained – any thoughts would be appreciated. I will call tomorrow to source the tube for pricing. Maybe even smaller like 1/2”x1” or even channel if its cheaper.

-- Sneaking up on the line....



3 comments so far

View jumbojack's profile

jumbojack

1203 posts in 1346 days


#1 posted 04-02-2012 05:48 AM

I have built a bunch of these. I just use MDF with a center piece of the same MDF. I bang em beat em leave them on jobs, the back of trucks, run over em cut the wrong way on em (that ruins em too). I would not go to too much trouble making one they take too much of a beating but nice design.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View FirehouseWoodworking's profile

FirehouseWoodworking

632 posts in 1995 days


#2 posted 04-02-2012 04:47 PM

Like Jumbojack, I make mine all out of MDF.

I found (through experience) that using 1” tubing for the fence will restrict full depth cuts with the circular saw because the motor housing hangs over the fence. Unless you’re using a wormdrive saw, I found this annoying and scrapped the tubing.

I also found the T-fence problematic. You should probably make it wider than the jig or you will find that over an 8 foot jig, your cuts won’t be square.

Like you, I make mine two-sided and use the router on the other side. Be sure to mark the jig with what router (if you own more than one) and which router bit you use.

Another consideration is to make multiple jigs of various lengths. I also made a 5 foot jig for crosscutting plywood and a 2 foot jig that I use for shelving, etc. The come in real handy.

I’m sure you will love using these. Very handy to use and they remove so much of the frustration of trying to cut straight lines!

Cheers!

-- Dave; Lansing, Kansas

View chopnhack's profile

chopnhack

368 posts in 1117 days


#3 posted 04-03-2012 04:42 AM

Thanks fellas. I am glad that you brought that up Dave! The motor will overhang the fence and I didn’t even give that a second thought because the current sawboard is just 1/2” ply with a ply fence. It was a simple jig I made years ago but it has been worth its weight in gold!! I just ordered myself a replacement circular saw as my old one has a wobble that makes the kerf nearly 3/16” :-( but the old sawboard seemed to help keep that under some control.

What was the problem with the t-fence? I was primarily using it as a stop because the underside would have that sliding stop that would tighten from the top.

-- Sneaking up on the line....

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