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developing my trim business and capabiities #1: Bosck ra1200 router table, not really

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Blog entry by cbfodalo posted 03-03-2014 03:39 AM 933 reads 0 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of developing my trim business and capabiities series Part 2: Extension wings for dwx732 »

So I have been working on a pretty large trim project, 100 ls window, 40 or so doors, milled 1.125” x 3.5” milled cypress casing, 5/4 rosetts and plints, 8 ” milled baseboard, some arches, pretty straightforward trim job, but for fixing all the mistakes from the framer and drywaller… its sad how little pride some tradesmen have in their work today.
at any rate, I usually try to expand my equipment a little during each project.
I had to route out a 1/2” x 3/16” dado out of the back off all the cypress casing. now that I am almost done job, I just picked up a load of new tools from craigslist;

- Bosch RA1200 Deluxe Folding router table. $80, funny think, I knew something looked off about the size of the table and fence set up, it has the kreg table top with the original Bosch fence. Its ok, but the Bosch table was 42 or 44 inches long, the kreg is only 33” so I am a little disappointed, but for $100, I got a really nice, stable folding and hence portable jobsite router table. $59 for the kreg router plate and I am good to go.

so I also picked up an older Bosch 1617evs 11 amp, soft start variable speed plunge router. it needs a little cleaning, but $25 seams like a good deal. same sale, I picked up a Makita 3612br, 14amp plunge router, no plate, $15. this sounds better then the bosch and is probable going in table, but here is a question, which router in the table, the soft starting variable 11amp Bosch, or the 14amp Makita, I also have a pretty new fixed based Bosch 1604a 11 amp single speed, my original plan was to put the 1604 in the table, but now I am leaning towards the Makita…. it is missing base plate anyway, and most of my work will be on table,I mostly set up a production line on trim, so free hand routing will be rare. so what do you think, ehich router for table. I am probable goin to add the krek bump switch for $35, it has two oulets, 1 for router and 1 for shop vac,

-- Healthy Homes, NJ LLC



6 comments so far

View GrandpaLen's profile

GrandpaLen

1562 posts in 959 days


#1 posted 03-03-2014 11:31 AM

cb,

All things being equal as far as the condition of the routers, I would go with the higher amp/h.p. ”Makita 3612br, 14amp plunge router, no plate” and you can order the Kreg Router plate for that specific Brand Router so it will be ‘plug and go’.

You scored a very nice ‘tool gloat’ from CL.

Work Safely and have Fun. – Grandpa Len.

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

View cbfodalo's profile

cbfodalo

20 posts in 234 days


#2 posted 03-03-2014 11:40 AM

I order the undrilled Kreg from amazon for $59, I did not see one specific to the Makita, but drilling the four holes should be easy enough. I agree, I am going to put the Makita under the table. I have been pretty fortunate with Craigslist, before I buy anything over $50, I check with CL first. Now I have to figure out weather to keep the Bosch 1617 11amp variable speed plunge, it needs just a little cleaning and oiling, but I have worked for over a year with 1 router, now I have 4…. the old Ryobi is just junk, so I will post it for $25, the Bosch is probable worth at least $80 to $100, so now, here is the nex decision, I have a really nice Bosch 1604a, 11 amp, with both collets, wrenches, manual and a nice metal box, I paid $75 for it. it is newer and in a little better shape then the 1617evsr, but obviously the plunge is a little more versatile. Perhaps I will post them both and see what sels first, keep the other…..

-- Healthy Homes, NJ LLC

View cbfodalo's profile

cbfodalo

20 posts in 234 days


#3 posted 03-03-2014 11:56 PM

built a new, very light work bench for my contractor saw today, used sme left over 5/4 poplar and a sheets of 1/2” azek. designed table top to be light weight and sits on a set of saw horses, the saw expands to rip up to 24, so I already had a router plate built for that, now they both sit up at 36” or whatever height I want, my horses adjust to 38”, I built table around table saw with 12” accros back to act as outfeed. now I have a very light, yet sturdy table saw platform that’s 58” wide by 35” deep, with the router table built in. I am going to build a new router insert out of azek and mount the bosch 1617evs under it. My goal is to have a complete, mobile wood shop for my trim jobs. So now my Miter saw, a Hitachi 12’ dual bevel compound miter saw with laser mounted on a dewalt 745 miter stand, my new jobsite table saw router combo and my big 4’x8’ work table are all the same height. my new bosch router table is 36” H as well, so I shold be able to move material around all the tools easily. I tel you what though, as heavy as the c10fl is, it cuts soo much better then the jobsite saw, I will be tempted to load that beast up on the road too….. I also have an old Makita 10” side mide saw, it works, and is nice to have the aility to cut wide boards, but its kinda rough shape. I want to fin a 8” hitachi dual compound slide, that next, but I need to lock down my next trim job first…..

-- Healthy Homes, NJ LLC

View cbfodalo's profile

cbfodalo

20 posts in 234 days


#4 posted 03-04-2014 12:08 AM

Bosch 1604a router, I picked this up or $80 on cl. used it for first time today, I am going to keep it as my freehand go to router with the 14am Makita 3612br in the bosch / kreg router table, and the Bosch 1616esv mounted in my jobsite table saw work bench.

-- Healthy Homes, NJ LLC

View cbfodalo's profile

cbfodalo

20 posts in 234 days


#5 posted 03-04-2014 12:12 AM

Makita 3.5” planner, I bought this planner and use it quite a bit, but was thinking of a bench top planner,,,, I run into situations where I need to remove material from the back of a board, but leave say a 1/2 wide, x 1/4” of the inside edge, so wahts the best way to remove the 3/16: from 3” out of the 3,5” board. I currently run it through router table and use a 1/2” startight cut bit to dado out a 3/16” grove, then stand the back side on on table saw to 3” h and rip out the rest. time consuming two step process.. any ideas?

-- Healthy Homes, NJ LLC

View cbfodalo's profile

cbfodalo

20 posts in 234 days


#6 posted 03-08-2014 10:51 PM

just an fyi, 1/2” azek is too soft for router table it flexes, I am going to build thr table insert out of cab 1/2” plywood I have left over.

-- Healthy Homes, NJ LLC

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