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Jayne's Rowboat Rocker #4: Capping the rails

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Blog entry by captkerk posted 1302 days ago 1115 reads 0 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 3: Basic Shape Complete Part 4 of Jayne's Rowboat Rocker series Part 5: Unscrewed »

Now that the sides are on the boat, today was about getting some cap rails installed to hide the plywood edging of the sides and give the boat a more finished look. Easier said than done since this is a compound curve. I started by creating templates out of 1/4” hardboard by clamping it in place and tracing the shape of the sides to it.

Then I cut out the outside line, sanded to the line and drew in the inside dimension 2” from the outside line. Then I had to make one for the other side since they aren’t exactly the same. They fit onto some 1×6x4’ boards that I would later resaw to 1/4” thick so I could bend them. The resulting cap is 1/2”.

After lots of clamping the templates into position to get references for installation, I finally put the right side cap on with glue and two screws per rib.



I’m actually fairly disappointed that I had to use screws through the top cap. I would have preferred to keep it clean and fastener-free, but I couldn’t think of a better way to keep it on securely. I originally thought about pocket screws running up from the ribs to the caps, but the cap material isn’t very thick and besides, I hadn’t drilled the pocket screws before installing the ribs to the bottom, so there is not access for that anymore.

The other side will go on tomorrow and then there will be significant work to be done to fit the bow cap so it matches up with the sides. We’ll see how it goes…



8 comments so far

View ND2ELK's profile

ND2ELK

13495 posts in 2359 days


#1 posted 1302 days ago

I know it is too late now but could you have doweled it? You are doing a very nice job on this piece. Looking forward to next step. Thanks for sharing.

God Bless
tom

-- Mc Bridge Cabinets, Iowa

View captkerk's profile

captkerk

169 posts in 1826 days


#2 posted 1302 days ago

Interesting idea, Tom. I hadn’t thought of that. Part of my dilemma is that I am bending the cap boards into shape right in position, so there is a decent amount of spring to them. I wonder if glue between the dowel running through the cap would be enough to hold them down against the force of the boards wanting to return to flat. If it is, I would be willing to go back and replace every screw with a dowel to achieve the cleaner look.

I thought about bending the wood ahead of time but didn’t want to try to duplicate the same compound curve on some other jig structure. That’s why I just bent it in place.

Thanks for the idea. Always interested in constructive criticism.

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captkerk

169 posts in 1826 days


#3 posted 1302 days ago

Ok. I’ve decided to take Tom’s advice and go dowels. Only I’m going to try a wedged dowel in an elongated, tapered hole to act as a mechanical means to better hold the caps in place. Now I just need to see if I can actually make it happen and meet my deadline!

View ND2ELK's profile

ND2ELK

13495 posts in 2359 days


#4 posted 1302 days ago

Clamp and glue the cap rails in places to the ribs. Drill the holes thru the top caps into the ribs. ROLL your dowels in glue and drive them in. Take a scrap piece of wood about 4 X 4, line your dowels up that you need for each cap piece you are working on. Squirt glue over them and take a scrap piece of wood 1 1/2” X 3 and roll the dowels back and forth with egde of this piece. Do not just put glue in the holes like a lot of people do. Rolled dowels make a stronger dowel joint. Let the dowels dry before removing clamps. It would look like the dowel joint you used in your ribs. I would use 3/8” X 2”- 2 1/2” dowels if your cap rails are 3/4” thick. I do not think you need to make wedged dowels in an elongated hole.

-- Mc Bridge Cabinets, Iowa

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captkerk

169 posts in 1826 days


#5 posted 1302 days ago

The cap rails are only 1/2” thick, glued up from two 1/4” thick pieces so I could bend them in place. The thinness of the cap rails is part of why I was thinking of having some form of mechanical holding instead of just glue, since there isn’t a whole lot of surface area. Do you think just the glue would still hold ok against the springing effect of the rails wanting to return to flat, or am I not giving enough credit to the glue in both the dowel joint and the glue used when attaching the two 1/4” thick rails to each other?

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ND2ELK

13495 posts in 2359 days


#6 posted 1301 days ago

Yes, I think the glue would hold it in place if you let it dry. You could go to 1/2” dowels which would give you a little more surface but do not know if it would make that much difference other than appearance.

-- Mc Bridge Cabinets, Iowa

View Chip's profile

Chip

1904 posts in 2678 days


#7 posted 1301 days ago

Very exciting piece Kerk. I’m glad you decided to try the dowel wedges. Purer look IMHO. Looking forward to seeing more…

-- Better to say nothing and be thought the fool... then to speak and erase all doubt!

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captkerk

169 posts in 1826 days


#8 posted 1301 days ago

Thanks for the input. Time to get to work.

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