After taking the fence and router table off, I had to get set-up for ts calibration and set-up. I also fixed an issue with the left miter slot (miter issue). I had already checked the blade 90 to the table – so that is already good to go.
3. Dial Calipers (didn’t use, though)
4. 36” Straight Edge
5. Allen Wrenches
6. Saw Blade (ATB)
8. Rubber Mallet
I then performed the following steps:
1. Installed blade and marked a tooth pointing toward the right miter slot.
2. Adjusted superbar in the miter slot for a snug but smooth fit.
3. Set the superbar to 0 at the front, against the tooth, making sure the tooth was at the middle of the superbar.
4. Rotated blade to rear and measured the same tooth.
——At this point, the blade is non-parralel by 20 thou——
5. Loosened 3 cap screws on the trunnion fully and one barely as the pivot point. Loosening the cap screws required a few taps of a hammer on the allen wrench, but they loosened up.
6. I then used the tap, tap, tap method with a rubber mallet on the trunnion for slight movement. I watched the superbar measurements as I tapped. I would take measurements front and back on the same tooth and tapped accordingly until I was satisfied. Once I tightened the cap screws, it would throw off alignment by several thou, so I went through a trial and error period until I realized that I could just use hand pressure on the trunnion to adjust while tightening the cap screws. I was able to make precise adjustments while tightening.
——At this point I am less than a thou off at the rear——
7. I then turned my attention to the left wing and got the seam with the main table to nothing. I used the stright edge for verification of flatness across the width, and it all looks and feels great. Very satisfied. Since the main table rises toward its center, I also had to use the straight edge to the left of the left miter slot.
What I still have to do to verify blade parralelism:
1. Perform a cross-cut from both sides of the blade.
This process goes as follows for both sides:
1a. Cut the piece at the front of the blade and run it to the rear of the blade.
1b. Hold the piece at the rear of the blade and listen for more cutting.
1c. Shut down the saw and listen for more cutting during shutdown runout.
1d. Check the wood for burning and check for square and flatness.
1e. Make adjustments as necessary after both sides have been tested.
What I have taken away from having to tear it down and set it up again: Don’t rush into a hobby that will be lifelong. Do it right and reap the benefits for years to come. The wife even agreed to that – phew, I was beginning to think that she thought I was wasting my time out there. I will start making saw dust when everything is dialed in. I still have the fence and router table to reattach, but that should go much smoother as well.
If I am missing something or a tip can be provided – let me know. I use ‘em.
-- "Determine never to be idle. No person will have occasion to complain of the want of time who never loses any. It is wonderful how much may be done if we are always doing." - Thomas Jefferson