This project started out based on the plans from New Yankee Workshop but morphed into a little more as I went along. The base and shelf are made of pine and plywood to save on money. I doubled up on most pine dimensions specified to add extra solidity. Then I added a 1 3/4” edge grain ash work top on top of 3/4” ply, then trimmed it out with 3/4” x 5” ash. I went with 3/4” round dog holes as it was easiest to install in this type of top and I could purchase inexpensive bench dogs in heavy duty plastic. I bought the front vise and the shoulder end screw from Leigh Valley as they received good reviews and were affordable. I also added the front vise which was not included in the original plans. In addition, I needed drawer space so I added drawers below the shelf. The trim and drawer fronts are ash. Finally, I used simple Tung oil for the finish. I was too lazy to do the BLO, beeswax and turpentine mixture also the smell kind of scared me off. I know it isn’t as pretty as some of the Roubo workbenches featured by other members, but it does what I need it to and for less than $200.

The wood is quarter-sawn white oak stained with a Medium Brown analine dye and finished with 3 coats of satin polyurethane. The time piece is powered by a single AA battery accessed through a back panel. The movement chimes every quarter hour.
The dimensions are: 16 3/8”h x 12 1/2”w x 5 3/4”d

This piece is made of select white oak and stained with a golden oak hue. This finish is buffed tung oil.
The overall dimensions are: 13” wide x 5 3/4” deep x 11” high
The clock face is 7 1/2” wide x 7” tall.
I must thank Tootles and Patron for their help in teaching me the techniques for tapering the sides (see my forum topic)

These are all variations of the “Peg” clock I posted a few months ago. All are made of quarter sawn white oak. Pictures 1,3 and 4 are finished with satin poly, whereas picture 2 is finished with 2 coats of tung oil. Pic 2 includes a tile made by my sister and pic 4 includes some mosaic tiles we were going to put on a backsplash.

Adjustable floor lamp made of quarter-sawn white oak.
Dimensions:
Height: Adjustable from 55 3/4” to 67 3/4” to top of lamp shade
Base: 18” x 18”
Shaft: 3 1/2” x 3 1/2” (at collar)
Lamp Shade: Top – 7” diameter; Bottom – 18” diameter; Side – 12”

This piece is an original design based upon classic Arts and Crafts design elements such as repeated slats and gentle arches. The wood is quarter-sawn white oak stained with a Medium Brown analine dye and finished with 3 coats of satin polyurethane. The time piece is powered by a single AA battery accessed through a back panel.
The dimensions are: Overall – 22 ¼”h x 12”w x 7”d Clock face – 8” x 8”

My first clock was made with white oak and a pre-made clock insert. I used a medium mission brown analine dye and 2 coats of polyurethane.

This is my newest project – an Arts and Crafts lamp with in internal light in the base. I also made the shade which was quite a project in and of itself. The lamp is made of quarter-sawn white oak. The translucent panels in the base are plexiglass painted with an off white spray paint. The panels in the shade are also plexiglass but they are covered in a cotton fabric on the outside and can be removed and replaced with something else if desired. This was a fun project.

This version of the Morris Chair is based on the New Yankee Workshop plans with some modifications. First, I reduced the size of the slats on the sides to make it similar to the coffee table I built a few months ago. Second, I slightly reduced the dimensions of the legs by 1/4” each side to make it less heavy looking. Ther are a ton of mortises and tenons to make in this version but thankfully I have a mortising machine to help with that! The chair is made entirely of white ash with two coats of Minwax English Chestnut and two coats of polyurethane. The cushions are leather and boy is it comfortable! I will probably make an ottoman some time in the future, but I’ll have to wait until my other upcoming projects are completed.

My sister is a potter and does these decorative tiles. She asked me to frame them so I chose to use quarter sawn white oak stained with a Mission Brown analine dye I got from Woodcraft and sealed them with one coat of satin poly. The frames are beveled from 1” at the outside to 3/4” at the tile.

This is my most recent project that I have made out of white ash. The plan came from Woodsmith Magazine and the only changes were to eliminate the cove edging on the headboard and footboard sub-cap and to replace a 1/4” roundover of the top plates with a light sanding/softening of the edges with my palm sander. I built the full size version since it replaces the full size bed in our guest room and I didn’t want to have to buy a new box springs and mattress set. I finished it with two coats of Minwax “Cherry” stain and two coats of Minwax Satin Polyurethane finish.

This is my el cheapo miter saw station that I made from 1 sheet of 3/4” particle board and some remnants around the shop including some old door hinges I had laying around. I did buy some casters so I can roll it out of the way. I used to have the saw mounted on my Black and Decker metal miter saw stand, but found that it took up way too much room in my modest sized shop. I plan on adding t-tracks on the wings along with measuring tapes (both l-r and r-l) so I can fix stops when needed. Not as sophisticated as some others, but it fits the bill for me and was less than $50!

I obtained the basic plan for this piece from PlansNow.com and made a few alterations. First, I made the legs taper toward the bottom instead of getting thicker toward the bottom. Second, I made the top out of 5 boards glued up and joined with biscuits. I then beveled the underside of the top to show a 1/2” edge instead of a 3/4” edge. I also used solid wood on the side and back panels instead of plywood. The chest is made of white ash except for the drawer bottom which is 3/16” birch ply and the bottom lining of the chest which is 1/4” cedar tongue-in-groove 3 1/2”wide pieces. The finish is 2 coats of Minwax English Chestnut stain with 2 coats of Minwax Satin Polyurethane.

I made this router station from the New Yankee Workshop plans and changed almost nothing except for using glue and screws to attach the cabinet back instead of all of the biscuits called for in the plans. Not sure why he spent all that time on biscuits to preserve the look of the back of a tool that will never be seen. Anyway, I love it and it works exceptionally well. I’m not sure I’ll ever fill up all the bit storage holes! My wife hopes not, I’m sure!

This was my overly ambitious first project! It came out ok but I learned a lot on the way. It is made from the Woodsmith Shop Display/Gun Cabinet plan with some minor modifications to the detail moldings, making them simpler and more up to date. The sides, tops and bottoms of each cabinet are made of glued up panels instead of the plywood called for in the plans. In addition, I added to side glass panes to allow for more light and make the antique guns it is meant to hold more visible. It is made of ash except for the oak ply for the backs of the upper and lower cabinets. This was meant to be nice but not high end.

I made this from the Woodsmith Shop plans but extended it to be 48” long. It is made of ash except for the legs which are red oak. I chose ash because I had a free supply. I actually like working with ash and even if I had to pay for it, the prices are very reasonable. The finish is very UN-sophisticated: three coats of Minwax English Chestnut and four coats of Minwax Satin polyurethane. I know, I know – sounds crude and it probably is but it was easy and this is only my second piece of furniture. I’ve bought “Understanding Wood Finishing” by Bob Flexner and Jeff Jewitt’s “Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing” and have learned a lot already.