A cradle for changing router bits on a Triton router
I got tired of chasing my big router around the bench when changing bits or setting depth of cut so today I grabbed a piece of 1×4" and a chunk of 1/4" mdf and made a cradle.
I traced around the router and cut the MDF out in a rough pattern on the bandsaw then tuned it a bit with the spindle sander.
Nice jig but I have to wonder why you need to "reef" on your wrench(s) Doesn't the collet hold properly without over tightening the nut ? Does that model have a spindle lock or two wrenches ?
Dusty,
After scoring a few bits ( particularly the 1/4" and 8mm sizes I take tightening very seriously.
The collet uses a spindle lock on this models which mean I have to use the router body as the other wrench.
I was chasing it around the bench on occasion when there was not enough room.
This gets me back to getting ample torque without the arm wrestle.
p.s. I do keep the collet slots aligned.
I have two routers with spindle locks and honestly I'd rather use two wrenches . I always wonder if the collet is tight enough or if I'm going to break the lock first…..It's like walking a tightrope ! LOL….I use my Porter Cable routers the most (2 wrenches) I have 3 of those ,1 in a router table and 1 set up for special operations , the 3rd one does everything else . 1 little old Sears R2D2 model 5/8HP, 1 VS Bosch in a router table and the 1hp Bosch Colt EVS and also my son bought me a Dremel tool with all of the attachments and bits. So far I haven't broken anything or had any bits loosen up on me… just lucky I guess . Is that a homemade wrench in the picture ? I had to "customize" some wrenches back in the day when I used to be a mechanic . Have a great weekend .
I can just push the collet detent in with on hand and tighten with the wrench through the top.
It fits under the wings on the 12MV and saved me cutting them off for the table mount.
Great job , Bob ! I knew it looked familiar ! LOL I just might try to find some of my "creations" but it might be tough as I did them back in the 1980's : ) Like they say , Necessity is the Mother of Invention !
I've been struggling with fitting brass hinges into softer woods that I seem to work with today against my better judgment.
By the time I have the mortise cut for the hinge I find that usually a portion of the mortise has either fallen away, been crushed by my chisels, or a combination of both leaving an unsightly gash into which I have to place my hinge.
I've been looking at this jig as outlined in ShopNotes volume #12 No. 74.
The principle of this jig relies upon your router having a square base with exact sides. In my case I am waiting for a new router and used my roto zip that happens to have a 4 inch base attached from a previous job.
The first thing you need to do is determine where you need your hinge to sit in the wood. I laid a couple of hinges up as shown and marked their positions with a sharp pencil.
Once the frame is lined up with the dimensions of the hinge the depth of cut is set for the router bit to match the thickness of the brass hinge being used. I actually made the mortise inset slightly deeper than the hinge so I could lightly sand away the milled edges giving me a cleaner mortise .
The last picture pretty much speaks for itself.
As shown, a 2 1/4 inch mortise on the left and the three-quarter inch mortise on the right and both are more than acceptable by my standards.
Nice hinge jig. You're a man after my own heart. I have a very similar jig but mine will only do 3 1/2" regular door hinges. But it is the same principle and I use a 6" base router. I love mine! I just used it when installing a door at my daughter's house. I went down there and measured the old door hinge locations. I was recycling a door from our house so I had to plug the old hinge mortices and cut new ones to the dimensions I took. That bugger fit right in there like it came with the frame.
Thanks for sharing your fixture. I'll bet a lot of guys will make one now!
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