A Challenging Situation Cutting small pieces of trim or moulding accurately on the compound miter saw can be challenging and a bit dangerous. The compound miter saw (known as the chopsaw in the trades and hereafter) has a large opening in the table for the blade and, most often, the plastic insert in the table drops down slightly from the level of the surrounding table. This is characteristic on my Hitachi, DeWalt, and Makita chopsaws. (I am a contractor so I sport 3 chopsaws.) Thi...
Another Table Saw UpgradeA quality cross cut sled has been on my to-do list for some time. I have seen many plans in the magazines over the years but have never built one. Now that I have finished my first cross cut sled, I don’t know how I got along without it. Desired Cross Cut Sled Features 1) I wanted a sled that would handle 24” wide panels.2) needs a dedicated easy to adjust stop block for repeat cuts.3) needs to accommodate zero-clearance on both the bottom and front fence to pr...
This has been on the list for awhile now. I’ve built ZCI’s in the past from Oak and Masonite but overtime they have issues. I got my hands on a Leecraft ZCI for my Craftsman 113 TS and was blown away at how nice it was. So all the design credit here goes to Leecraft, here’s a picture: The Leecraft doesn’t use the front hold down screw that comes standard on this saw, rather, they use 2 horizontal screws (one in front and one on the right side). You tweak...
So This is my first in what i’m sure will be a long line of upgrades to my Delta 36-725 table saw. A zero clearance insert. I decide to make this out of 3/4” King StarBoard® HDPE (though I could have used 1/2” in retrospect). A few reasons for this. First of all, I live in South Florida, keep my saw in an un-air conditioned garage, and it gets humid down here. So I wanted something that will be impervious to humidity. This stuff is naturally slippery, and can really take ...
So I have a cheap, older, table saw. Skilsaw brand. With no intention of upgrading due to space and of course budget.I had made a zero clearance insert for it awhile back… out of plexi-glass which was maybe not the best choice.This insert that I made worked very well but it was a pain to make. During a recent incident in the shop that had to do with a push stick, ripping some thin stock, and a little kickback I no longer have my homemade insert (I always wear my safety goggles). I we...
Its been a somewhat busy week for me and I had to install the fence over a 4-5 day period. All said, I’d estimate the total install time at 4-5 hours. And the results were not 100% perfect. The front of the fence sat a nice, cozy 1/16 off the table, while the rear was about 1/8 (maybe even 3/16)( See 2nd pic below). I suppose I should happy it wasn’t worse seeing as how I drilled the rear portion of the table and the rail with a hand drill. I could have removed the rear rail, enla...
I made a zero clearance insert for my Ridgid 10” sliding compound miter saw and I thought some others might be interested in it. I pulled the orange factory insert out and it was 0.250” thick. I started looking around for something close and then found a 5-gallon paint stirrer from HD was the right thickness. I glued three of them together and cut it to fit. Below are the pictures. Here is more information.
I finally made myself a zero clearance insert for my table saw. This happened today only because I spent 4 hours in the emergency room yesterday to have my left palm stitched up. Yup, I have officially joined the ranks of the injured woodworkers; bitten by my own table saw. Like many, I removed the splitter to make dado cuts and did not replace it. Yesterday I ran some hard maple through the saw and noticed it was pinching on the back of the blade. Stupid thinks to herself, as she has many ti...
Right hand sideLeft hand sideThe underside I not certain that this qualifies for a “project” but it’s been raining here for the last two days (on vacation not withstanding!) so I had to do something. The base started from a 12×12 blank of 1/8” hardboard and trimmed down to final size of 12×11-1/16. I made the base a lot wider on the left hand side so that I can use the saw with my good hand (left hand). The way is was before, the motor would hit the c...
<div></div> I’d like to detail exactly what I did so if anyone wants to recreate this for their saw they would have some exact guidance. Firstly I noticed that the power switch was on the left… I felt this was dangerous. I knew that the adjustment for the saw blade angle was on the right, but I felt it was also necessary to move the power switch to the right. I notice that the angle iron which supports the rail on my saw had two predrilled and counter sunk holes on t...
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