The original plans said to build this after building the carcass, but I am not one to follow every direction. So it was up first. Design was completed and away I go. Even though I decided to make the UTS out of plywood, I made the torsion box out of MDF to take advantage of the its dead-flatness. I shrank the dimensions a bit so the plywood face would be flush with the rest of the carcass. I also moved around the rails so the casters would line up with the hardwood inside supports. ...
NOTE:I originally posted this as a Project and not a Blog entry. So I’ve moved it over here and will build upon it. I can not figure out how to delete the project, so my mistake will continue to live on, like most of my mistakes. ====================================================== After moving tables bought from auctions and using sawhorses and 2×4s as a miter saw base, I decided I needed a proper workbench. I spent a few months scouring the internet and magazines to find ...
Well after restoring the Clearcut chisels I figured they and the rest of my chisels should have a special place to call home. I took one of the drawers under my workbench and made it my chisel drawer. Check out this little video I titled THE PERFECT FIT. View on YouTube Thank you.
The other day i found what looked a lot similar to a Milkmans Workbench on a local used-items-site for sale for about 20€. The lady that had it for sale knew nothing at all about its origin but wrote her immediately and had it mailed to me. Having seen a lot of these built here on LJ i thought that I would share my findings and how it was brougt back to life. Hope it is usefull. A few days back it arrived and, i must admit, looking a bit beat up. But it turned out to be an actual Milkma...
I was cleaning up my bench this week after doing a bit of sharpening of my chisels and a plane iron or two, and I decided to do a sort of a “post-mortem” on my workbench project. Costs: 11 2×8 12’ boards – $100Two used vices, from Craigslist – $50Various nuts, bolts, barrel nuts, and screws – $15Wood pulls for the doors – $8Plywood for the cabinet in the base – $25 Total Cost – $198 Time required to complete the bench: ~25...
Time to get on with the part I was dreading the most, chopping mortise for the legs in the benchtop. I was dreading this because they were so big, 1”W x 4”L x 2”D to be exact. I roughed out the tenons on my tablesaw with a dado stack so nothing really to see there, then I finished them with my router plane. Next came the chop chop. These were the first mortises I’ve ever tried to cut completely with hand tools. I’ve done several where I drilled out most of the wa...
Step 1, now we’re really starting on our journey into woodworking. This is when I go, “Oh man. Power tools are super expensive, I think I’ll just stick to hand tools. Plus, that sounds incredibly fun and like a good opportunity to truly challenge myself.” Can you tell that I’m a newbie? What did I even get myself into. Well that was a comforting thought UNTIL I looked at the price of quality hand tools and the true difference between shoddy ones and good ones....
I thought this might be fun to document building a new bench that I’ve been wanting to do for about a year now. My current bench is made out of about 2 sheets of 3/4” plywood and has a sheet of MDF laminated to plywood for the top. It was a good starter bench but I moved to a new house about 2 years ago and now my workshop is in the basement and it’s just too big. I don’t know what style you’d call this new bench exactly but if I had to be pinned down I’d s...
Warning: pic heavy Just posting a bunch of progress. Leg vise continued. Cutting the bridal joint. Lignum vitae pin for the guide. This stuff strong. Trying to incorporate this as a pin holder but haven’t come across an idea that I can pull off with what I have on hand. So it’s on the back burner for now. Hammered a poplar dowel and drilled a center so I could bore it with a forstner. Didn’t work out so well. Stuck a roll pin...
I milled the leg and spacers/support block out of the same chunk of oak. The screw and nut are the remnants of what I bought for my end vise. A cove cut on the table saw and an 3/8” round over gave me the basic profile. I smoothed it out of with a whatever rasp and file I had on hand. Then marked and mortised for the nut. I’ll probably put a dab of epoxy on final assembly of the nut to make sure to hold it captive. It’s damn good fit if I say so myself. ...
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