Well, I discovered I didn’t take any pictures of fitting the tenons to the mortises. Probably because it was kind of tedious and a little bit boring. The first step was to cut the tenons. For the side stretchers, I cut them the same way I cut the large tenons on the legs – with the table saw. Shoulders first, then stand the piece up and cut the cheeks. Then I squared up each mortise and used a router plane, a rasp and/or a float to fit each tenon in turn. Three of the 8 teno...
got 1.5 hours to work in the shop tonight to enjoy the last of our 45+ temps. I think I’ll be bringing the rest of the bench in to assemble in the basement but we’ll see how this goes. So I worked on getting the leg with the vise in it put together. I had it screwed together but it wasn’t squared. Frustrated, I took all the screws out and started from square one and layer one. Since part F starts the one side, I shimmed the other pieces up level and start putting the first ...
Hi folks.Well first post here. Found out about this site from Pintrest pins leading to it and found it extremely helpful. Figured I’d chronicle my not-so-little project here via these blogs. So here we go. [WARNING: This entry is going to be highly text heavy] Short history lesson first. Started my own business in June of this year (2014). Was currently living in a house that I was renting for various reasons but had every intent of buying a house shortly. Prior to that lived in a Co...
Before I mortised the legs, I decided to inset the nut for the leg vise. Easier to do it now than later. (Thank you, Sylvain and tsangell!) This gives me another 1 1/4” of vise travel. If I need more, I will invert the nut. That can be easily accomplished later. The process was to lay out crosshairs on a piece of scrap and mark the center: The layout lines are needed to line up the template with the center of where the nut goes. Then drill out a hole with the big Forstner bit &...
If figured it would be better to work on the vise install on the leg before the bench was assembled. Heeding my own advise, I read and re-read the install instructions again before I started. First thing I realized was that the leg vise install is as much about the chop as it is about the leg. Makes sense – a vise isn’t much with just one surface :-) So I glued up a board to use as the chop: The chop needs to be at least 2 1/2” thick and I all have is 8/4” board...
To cut the mortises for the leg tenons, I went back to the masking tape. Laid some strips down, and lined up the first leg to be flush with the front of the bench. This leg will ultimately be the leg vise. I had deliberated left some extra space between two of the dog holes to ensure the leg would fit. It was easy to knife the outer faces of the tenons, but the inner faces are a bit harder. Because I know the tenons are dead straight, I simply knifed about 1” in on both ends. Afte...
To join the legs to the top, I’m going to use blind tenons. I didn’t quite have enough lumber to do the full through dovetail tenons – my leg blanks are about 1” short! C’est la vie. I’d glued up the blanks months ago and left them rough. So I start by foursquaring them. Joint two adjoining faces, plane the other two. Kept at the planer until all four legs were surfaced on all sides, resulting in them being 5 11/16” square. Next step was to trim...
First, for Terry - Step 1: Step 2: Step 3: Step 4: Kinda like eating an elephant. A little bit at a time… ——- You know how it is when you head into the shop at 9 a.m. thinking you’ve got a fairly simple task to do, should take about an hour and you can move on to the next part of the project? And then you realize you need to take care of a detail before you can do that one thing? But before you take care of the detail you need to take care of somet...
This is what I was thinking of to go up against the field stone walls around the dungeon walls. http://www.familyhandyman.com/workshop/workbench/wood-work-bench/print The tall back ends would have to be screwed (bolted?) to the overhead beams for support since there isn’t any way to actually attach to the field stone. Maybe I will need to add short, sturdy feet extending out onto the floor space for additional support. Thick mil. plastic sheets between the wood and wall would ...
The process for truing up the tongue and mortising the end cap for the non-vise end was the same as for the vise end, so I’ll avoid repeating myself. Once I had the end cap fit, I needed to cut the condor tails. I carefully laid out the front board and got a back shoulder cut precisely. Important, because the tails on the front board have to fit into sockets on both ends. And those sockets are at fixed locations. Once I got that right, I proceeded to cut the tails on the band saw, cl...
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