The to-do list—never final, as I’m learning—now consists of: - Drilling the dog holes (awaiting the arrival of the 3/4”, 17” long Bosch auger bit)- Installing the face vise- Framing the front, back, and sides with 3/4” hardwood (thanks, Steve !)- Deciding whether or not I want to hit it with Danish Oil But … it’s dead flat, roughly 36” working surface (seems perfect for me), and …. will probably come in right around that $175 m...
I think I underestimated the number of hours this workbench would take me, even though the article pegged it at about 30. So … I’ve been overdoing it a bit on shop time. Sue me ;-) Anyway, the workbench base—also made entirely out of 2×8 boards of Home Depot Douglas Fir—is complete. The legs are glue-ups. The end assemblies are glued. The end assemblies are bolted to the frame rails. It’s square. It’s solid. It’s stable. Lef...
There’s an article, by the well-known Christopher Schwarz, that tells how to make a workbench for about $175.00. I like that idea ;-) He raves about SYP, but … not much of that in my neighborhood, so …. I went with the dimensional Doug Fir, from the Depot. I’m working on the base, right now, but … here’s the top … before being trimmed to length: Got his recommended vise, bench dogs, and Wonder Dog, from Lee Valley. The top will dress ...
A lot’s happened lately! I pegged the long stretchers. Funny story. In my mind, the pegs in Schwarz’s Roubo were 5/8”. I didn’t have a 5/8” bit, but I had a very nice 3/4” one, so I used that and made 3/4” pegs. I figure, maybe they’re a touch bigger than the ones Chris used, but hey, no biggie. Just the other day I realized: Chris used 3/8” pegs!!! Haha, oh well, the Schwarz has said that you can’t overbuild a workbench, right? ...
I have been in the process (for a few months now) of building a general purpose workbench.I work on the computer and usually “play” on the computer so I have hard time prying myself off it and getting anything done. Well, the cooler weather here in Phoenix is helping. I based my design on the workbench featured in Wood Magazines Best-Ever Workshop Jigs, Tips, and Ideas 2010 pg. 86 – 88. In retrospect, I wish I had followed their plan exactly and used a solid core door ...
There’s a new post on the Little Good Pieces blog: “T-time”. It’s my way of dealing with vise racking. Check it out! http://littlegoodpieces.wordpress.com/2010/11/01/t-time/
I don’t know what is making me procrastinate on this bench. I think maybe it was the hand planing that was a part of this next step. Well anyway, it wasn’t that hard – I just had to make the tenons on the long stretchers a bit narrower so they’d fit nice and snug in the mortises. Not too hard. Next step – whittling some pegs for drawboring the stretchers, and at the same time getting a start on laminating the benchtop!
Now that the end assemblies are finished, it’s time to see about getting the stretchers rigged up. They use a home-made bed bolt system that consists of a bolt that goes through the leg and into the stretcher where you make a mortise to receive a nut. In retrospect I should have just ordered bed bolts from Highland Woodworking. For more info on bed bolt joints, see this Fine Woodworking article. Here you can see the mortises and the nuts that went into them. I used a forstner bit...
Well work picked up for a while so I haven’t had time to post any progress till now. In this post I will show what I had to do to get the Veritas Twin-Screw vise mounted. I originally was planning on using the Lie-Nielsen Twin-Screw vise but had to change when I realized the dog holes would interfere with the chain. The biggest issue with the change was that the instructions for the Veritas vise said you needed to have 1-1/2” of clearance from the bottom of the top for the receive...
Before I put the end assemblies together I wanted to rig up the levelers. To level the bench I am using Hockey pucks with 1/2” bolts epoxied in them. I am then epoxying nuts into the legs of the assemblies. The Levelers: Testing the fit of a nut after I drilled a hole in the bottom of a leg using my drill press and a forstner bit. Once the levelers were done it was time to look into finishing up the ends. I went ahead and used a 3/8” forstner bit to drill holes...
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