I just got back from a woodworking tool estate sale. There were many good buys. I would of purchase a lot more but ran out of money. I spotted this woodworking vise and noticed that it is a quick release. I already got an old vice for the workbench that I am currently building, but it is not a quick release. I thought I would give it a go. I am taking a chance in buying a vise that wouldn’t turn. For $25.00, I don’t think it is much of a gamble. Here’s what I have foun...
I wanted to make the bench’s stretchers as proportionately beefy as the top and legs. Since my legs are 5” square, I figured it would work well, and look good, to make the stretchers about 3 1/2” high, and about 2 1/2” thick. So I had to AGAIN joint, plane, glue, clamp and wait some more. I’ve been getting kind of bored of doing glue-ups, so I’m glad this was the last laminating I’ll have to do on this project. I want to integrate 3/4” thick...
Now that the top is done, it’s time to start the legs and stretchers. I wanted real thick and sturdy legs, so I’m going for 5” square. Prior to starting this project, I had never done any real lamination work. I’ve glued boards together before, end-to-end, to make wider planks. But that material was only 1/2” thick. I never did anything this big before, but this whole lamination thing seemed pretty easy in concept. Sure enough, it wasn’t too bad. Now...
I had previously finished laminating the two halves that would make up the top. I made two 12” wide sections, ran each through the planer to smooth and true up the tops and bottoms, and ran each mating edge across the jointer. And as I wrote in the previous blog entry, one of the halves already has the finished wagon vise built into it. The two halves were now all done and ready to be glued. It was tricky maneuvering the two parts in the final glue up, as each section was heav...
Since last time I’ve been working on the base. I used 4/4 red oak, so there was lots of milling and gluing up of stock. It was a bit tedious, but I think I’m finally getting the hang of using the jointer efficiently. From the beginning I had planned to make this bench knock down in case I need to move it in the future. The original PWW bench was also knockdown, where the short and long stretchers were bolted on. I decided instead to make the two ends solid assemblies and bo...
I haven’t had much time to work on the bench since I did the glue up of the top, but tonight I finished tuning up my jointer plane which still needed the bottom lapped and the back of the blade lapped and sharpened. Then I tuned up my ugliest #5 which will now be reserved for fore plane duty with it’s sharpened 8” radius camber blade that I did tonight. Then I went work flattening the bottom. It’s not 100% perfect, but it’s 99% which is good enough for me for the...
My friend and I are in the planning stages of doing a joint, side-by-side build of some new workbenches. This will start with the logs and hiring a guy with a woodmizer to mill the timber in to boards. It looks like we are going to be using red oak, as we are able to get more than enough at the going price of fire/cord wood, then paying $.30/bd ft. to have it rough sawn. So, this won’t begin till next winter after it dries. Here are a couple sketches. No secrets here on the des...
I know everyone posts their workbench build, but I wanted to post mine too. Haha! I had a day off today so I milled my Douglas fir 4×4s as square on all four sides as I could. I was originally going to use a bunch of white oak flooring that we had taken up from a job but I realized that was going to be a lot of work to only end up with a 2” thick top. After milling the 4×4’s they are roughly 3 1/4” thick. Much better. I stacked them end on end to see how they would...
I bought this old solid beech school woodwork bench on ebay for £60. ($95)Heres the start of bringing it back to life back view front view top viewThe kids have knocked nails in to the top and repaetedly sawed into the edges.Nails were punched below the surace at least 3/8 inch and plugged with mahogany dowl.Holes were enlarged to solid wood and filled with glued in tapered dowlsSaw cuts recut with wider kerf sawblade and strips of hardwood gluedin end view holes holes f...
Now that I know what the actual width of the top will be (23 1/2 inches by the way) I was able to cut the short stretchers that connect the front and back legs: I decided to try to drawbore the legs with 3/8” pegs since the short stretchers will be attached permanently. I had already drilled the holes in the legs so all that was left to do was to mark the location on the tenon so the holes could be drilled. I couldn’t get the stretcher all the way into the mortise for som...
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