Scandinavian workbench restoreOne legged dead man walking… Ok some awful undertones in that name…Actually it is just a simple dead man for the new old workbench. Just a long piece of wood, not sure but think teak. Marking the center line. Drilling holes for every two inch or five cm. And a little dowel that fits the holes with a cross dowel that makes it easy to pull out. Use the end vice to hold it. Get the idea? Now it is just to use it.I udsed it for pla...
So I decided I needed to finally build a real woodworking bench for my new workspace. I got all the books by Chris Schwarz, checked all the back issues of woodworking mags and browsed the internet in preparation. Then the first thing I did was break one of Chris Schwarz rules. I decided to design my own rather then duplicate a historical bench. I think I had valid reasons. My workspace is small. I could not fit a long bench. A short bench means planning forces have a bigger impact, so I d...
I am a woodworker, an engineer, a maker, and a tinkerer. I built myself a workbench that height adjustable and completely solid that will last for generations. The full project description is here. But if your like me, you will find that a project, though completed, is never really done. I started this blog to document my starting point for any modifications and upgrades I do to the bench. See a video of the project by clicking here if you don't have flash or watch below:
Now that I have my base built, it is time to start on the top of the workbench. To do so, I decided to go with a glue-up of 2×4s cut in half. In the end my top should be 48” long and about 30” wide. Here are some initial pieces to show you the scale: To build the pieces, I cut a douglas fir 2×4 in half, then hand-planed it to remove the rounded corners. I used my number 5 jack plane to remove material and my number 6 to smooth it out. I occasi...
I left off with some cypress jointed and planed for the stretchers with a loose idea of what I wanted to do. I was originally hoping to do a “loopy” sort of deal (like the loopy infill), but I’d need to invest in a router guide bushing set and make or buy some templates and bits. In the end, I just did this Which translates to this. After milling the stretchers and the dados in the legs, I went ahead and glued the legs in first. Then the stretchers. Then a little purpleheart...
The original plans said to build this after building the carcass, but I am not one to follow every direction. So it was up first. Design was completed and away I go. Even though I decided to make the UTS out of plywood, I made the torsion box out of MDF to take advantage of the its dead-flatness. I shrank the dimensions a bit so the plywood face would be flush with the rest of the carcass. I also moved around the rails so the casters would line up with the hardwood inside supports. ...
I have known that I wanted to build a Roubo bench for a long while now. A few months ago, more than I want to try and figure out, I purchased enough 2×10x12’ hem-fir to build a bench 24” x 60” with 3” square legs and a 3” thick top. I brought the unwieldy 12’ long boards home and cut them all in half on my back deck then brought them down to the basement and stacked them temporarily (read improperly). It was at this point I undertook a wedding gift ...
Here goes…. Traditional work benches (roubo for example) are out dated. I know, heresy. But it’s true The reason they made those crazy over sized legs and joints was because they didnt have sheetgoods back then and they needed to over build them to deal with the lateral and horizontal force they experienced. It is my opinion that pine 2×6’s and 3/4 ply MORE than cover any of the structural needs of a work bench. So the next big argument FOR traditional w...
Now that the end assemblies are finished, it’s time to see about getting the stretchers rigged up. They use a home-made bed bolt system that consists of a bolt that goes through the leg and into the stretcher where you make a mortise to receive a nut. In retrospect I should have just ordered bed bolts from Highland Woodworking. For more info on bed bolt joints, see this Fine Woodworking article. Here you can see the mortises and the nuts that went into them. I used a forstner bit...
I milled the leg and spacers/support block out of the same chunk of oak. The screw and nut are the remnants of what I bought for my end vise. A cove cut on the table saw and an 3/8” round over gave me the basic profile. I smoothed it out of with a whatever rasp and file I had on hand. Then marked and mortised for the nut. I’ll probably put a dab of epoxy on final assembly of the nut to make sure to hold it captive. It’s damn good fit if I say so myself. ...
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