The timber is still moist to the touch and heavy, probably about 28% moisture, but it will be easier to cut in this condition and will dry quickly with a smaller cross-section. It is time to rough-cut the components. You may remember that I have already selected and prepared pieces for the main members – the back legs. All this hand-work makes you think of efficiency in a way that you may never have thought of it before. If you have ever cycled around the countryside and taken a wrong t...
Toymaker Amber Dusick aka woodmouse her wood shop in her garage in downtown LA. After the birth of her son, this one time farm girl from Wisconsin became nostalgic for the toys from her past: simple, natural toys that would inspire creativity and imaginative play, made from materials that wouldn’t stick around in a landfill for thousands of years. After years of silver smithing, throwing pottery and drawing with pen and ink, Amber finally found her medium in wood. Using sustainab...
My dad, Ralph Kent, Disney’s keeper of the mouse, passed last year. He was an artist, a designer of uncountable products, a lover of games, a terrible punster, and a collector of mammoth proportion. His chess set collection alone took up an entire spare bedroom. I mean stacked floor to ceiling with squeezeways to access them. He only could display maybe twenty or thirty at a time. They, along with his collections of other games (some dating to the fifteenth century), Disney memorabil...
Okay, so I’m in the market for a plane that will help me clean up my tenons and maybe do some other tricks too. I’ve narrowed it down to a Stanley #78 rabbet plane and one of those skinny wooden shoulder planes that are so common on eBay (in fact, I just saw one listed for $9.99 that ended with no bids). It seems that these two planes do mostly the same kind of thing, and that they would both work for tenons and rabbet joints. Right? But the Stanley #78 has the bullnose feature...
I’m starting a new series with this post, figuring that I’ll want to talk more about old and new tools in the future. I was in a random hardware store today when I saw a couple of these little guys sitting on the shelf. I thought, for $9, why not? Rosewood body, with a small brass wear strip on the bottom. The blade is 7/8” wide, and seems to be positioned well in the mouth. It’s probably a crappy blade, but I’m decent at sharpening, so that should be surm...
About 3 years ago my wife and I were on vacation in Arkansas. I appropriated a slab of Sassafras from a woodworker that I had befriended. We were actually in a State Park that had huts set up with demonstrations of the way things were done a century ago – very interesting. Anyway, I got this slab, which is about 2 feet in diameter and about 5” thick. I carried it onto the tour bus that was taking us back to our hotel – people thought that I was crazy, my wife was way ah...
I present to you… a tiny little division of Lumberjocks.com — but mighty. I account myself as a member.
Just playing around in the shop and came accross these planes. I made them a couple years ago, and really enjoyed it. Nothing too fancy, and the basic plans came from a book on making hand planes. They are a pleasure to use as the shavings come peeling through the throat opening. That nice whoosh sound that only planes make, and shavings thin enough to read through! And a polished surface that’s left behind. So much satisfaction in using them, knowing you made them. ...
One thing nice about not being allowed to use glue, No glue clean up and you can pre-finish all of the parts before assembly. On my finishing blog I wrote about using Pumice and Rottenstone as a wood filler, I thought I’d try something different on this cabinet. I used my private blend Danish Oil (1/3 Boiled Linseed Oil BLO, 1/3 varnish, and 1/3 Mineral Spirits). I squirted it on the boards and used a 120 grit Random Orbital Sander (ROS) to sand the oil and sanding dust. In doing that I wa...
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