More details about the Guide nut – where you see the red, that is where I had to trim out part of the thread that prevents the screw from fully advancing as the thread is being cut. If you do this, then you’re creating the wood screw will be so much quicker than mine. Only thing you may have to fight is the depth of your router bit. If too deep, then the freshly screw will be loose in the guide nut. If not deep enough, the advancement of the screw will get nearly if not imposs...
If you use the router method, you might have to put up with the fact that you might have some “burn” marks on the threads. Think of it this way – do those burn marks affect how the screw works/operates? NOPE – not one bit. It might be possible getting a crank on the end of the screw to help you keep the dowel/screw advancing and avoid the burn marks. It’s up to you, for me, I can live with it – somewhat. The nut – in a previous post I mentioned the guide nut wasn’t very clean when I ran...
Now the dowel I used to make the wood screw was not the prettiest – as it had some knots and almost some bark within it – I figured most likely I would be using it for a testing and not an actual screw for the bench. I took the guild block/nut with the router bolted on top, clamped it to my current bench (hollow core door) and got ready to do my first test. I turned on the router, put my dowel in and started away. NOTE: I had about 3”-4” from my old dowel to use for ...
I decided that I didn’t need to re-create the tap guide, as the one I had from version 2 sould work just fine. Here you can see the tap inserted into the soon-to-be guide nut. However, prior to this, I found my hole wasn’t quite 90 degrees, so I put that to the side and created a new blank for a nut. I took my burnisher for scraper, loaded that up in the drill press and checked to see if the table is set right – it wasn’t so I spent the next 15-20 minutes looking for...
After having version 2 fail, I kept on the idea that I could do this and figure it out. After the second version, I thought I’d better use my hard maple to make the next version. So I cut out a piece from my 8/4 board and took my hand plane (yes, that one I built :-) – I was kind of not wanting to use this hard maple with that nice looking edge grain. But since I had not other boards to use, I went ahead and used it. I glued it up and made a new 2” dowel to become...
I don’t have any pics of the process, but the aftermath. In this picture you can see my attempt on the screw. A couple of things I learned. My incorrect thought process would be that the dowels used to hold the guild block/nut together would be enough when creating the screw. Well, I was wrong and that ended up getting pushed out and caused the grove in dowel. The whole upper part of the dowel was my first attempt that I took off on the lathe – the second part you can somewhat...
Time to get the router in place. I found a popular board that I planed down to 1/4” thick and mounted to my router base. It has been a while since I did this, but if I recall correctly, I put the wood onto the router base, put the V bit into the router and put it in, slowly advance the router down till it barely poked through, OR I did it on the side you see in the picture with the pencil lines. Either way, you need to have lines to help you line it up with the guide block/nut. You ...
After making the nut, I decided to go the route of using a router to create the threads on the screw. Which meant I needed to get the starting of a thread at the very top of the guide nut. This way the router can be set on top. If one would take some time, make the spacing correct when creating the nut, this step could be avoided, but really, the time to figure all that out isn’t worth the time, just run it through the thickness planner and get that thread at the top. NOTE: If you...
The process of creating the nut that will become the guide for the screw. I’ve got my nice long tap already into the guide, which gets pulled through the “nut”. I’ve got clamps to hold the nut block to the guide block, which is clamped down on my 1/2 of my glued up bench top. To start, you have the blade barely sticking out and start cranking it in, making sure that any of the scrapings fall off before you reverse it back. Once out, you advance the blade just a bit...
All the pieces of my version 2 of the building my wooden screw. In front is the finished tap, notice the grove in the middle (assuming the picture isn’t “scrunched”) – this lets all the scrapings of the nut fall into that grove. In the back of the grove is the mortise for the blade that is right behind the tap. The block on the right is the guide for the tap that is used to create the nut. On the left side is going to become the nut that guides the screw as threads a...
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