A short blog today as its bloody freezing in my workshop. The original state of play with the box was this. with part of the hinge broken out. The next thing to do is clear out a space for the main body of the new hinge. The body of the new hinge is 13 mm wide 6 mm deep. I marked up the area around the old hinge to be removed. Cross hatched in white. I am keeping the pin of the hinge in the same relative position, level with the top of the internal lipping on the bottom of the ...
A busy day and that’s just making the hinge. First thing to do is cut up the material into four pieces. then mark up the pieces, including where the slot is to be routed. The next thing to do is route the pin slot. The pin is to be enclosed (not visible at the ends of the hinge). The hinge is 125 mm long, allowing 6 mm of un-routed material at each end, leaves a 113 mm long slot. To set the router table up for this I installed a 45 degree router bit, marked up one piece of...
We all make mistakes. Yes even me. I’ve been working on the design and build of a box for the best part of a month and a half now. You know I don’t like chunky boxes, the sort with way too thick walls. This box is about 125 mm square x 75 mm high. So I’ve made the wall thickness 6 mm, slightly on the thin side but not a problem for a shell or drop on lid box. Except this one has a wooden clam shell hinge (see first part of blog). This was a mistake as the consternate...
The hardest challenge in this series is to make the WOODEN HINGE for a cylinder side. The difficulty of the curve fitting and the alignment of the pin to cater the correct pivot. LID PART . The lid being the one that is on top will take the whole arc that will be close to the outermost part and length will just be enough to hold the post on each end. This must be tangent to the circumference and must be at right angle (at first only so as to route the slot that will hold the pin). You ...
This is going a lot quicker than the last version. The pin groove went well as did the rounding and bottom groove not a lot to show really. So. So long and thanks for all the fish. The project will be posted shortly Be seeing you.
Hello again. First thing to do today is mark out all the hinge fingers on L,R and T. Pretty much like this The cutting regime is shown here on T. Left to right. Marked out, Sycamore layer removed, Sapele layer removed When all three fingers are removed the Walnut piece is hinged to this piece with masking tape. Walnut layer lowermost. The knife is used to transfer the outlines to this layer. The Sapele/Sycamore layer is hinged off of this to reveal the outline markings...
This blog details how I made the hinges for my latest project, ‘56’ (also now used in ‘42’). In this blog I will be making one hinge, 56mm x 76mm x 6mm. I am using dissimilar woods for contrast. These are, in this case, sycamore and walnut. I work in millimetres. For those of you using inches there are 25.4 mm to the inch. There is a calculator in the pc you are using to read this blog, its not rocket science. I cut four blanks 56mm x 42mm x 3mm, two of sycamore and...
I recently posted a project of a box with a wooden hinge where I said ”I wouldn’t do it the same way again”. The best way to explain why is to explain how I did it. Yes, I know there are a lot of other ways of doing this, but I did it this way regardless – call it an experiment if you like. I made my box in a workshop that is part of the local education system. One of the odd constraints that put on me is that I was not allowed to use the table saw – the person in...
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