Hi fellow LJs. I must say that in my first couple of months here, I have learned a lot. This place is a wealth of knowledge and good ideas, and maybe some not too good ideas. But hey, we are all adults here, and we share our triumphs and defeats, good ideas and bad(if there really is such a thing), as well as good deals, trade secrets, and all other things woodworking. So I found a steal of a deal on the hardwood rough sawn lumber over the weekend. My excitement poured over on the insid...
In the following drawing the book “The Marquetry Manual” by William A. Lincoln tells you the window method is done by starting with the farthest piece in the background. This would be #1 in the top drawing. Instead of following the lines in the drawing drawing when you come to an adjoining piece you over cut (dotted lines) into the adjoining piece. Put glue all the way around it, with a tooth pic, I put my glue in aplastic coffee can lid. Wait for the glue to dry then draw or t...
I had never done a basketweave before so this is the process I came up with. At first it was one of those trial and error things, I’m sure we have all done this. I covered the inside and outside so I had to have 10 panels. A time consuming process, but I would do it again. In this picture I am shading both ends of the pieces. I do enough to make 2 or 3 rows. I put 5 or 6 pieces in and by the time I get the last one in the sand the first one is ready to be turned or taken o...
About a year and a half ago I got a picture in my head of a box with basketweave, white roses and a tiger swallowtail. After a few days sketching and different ideas I came up with a design. This blog will show how I did the marquetry for this box. I did not take pictures while building the box, the marquetry was my main priority. I wanted it to look like something that was made to be used, not fancy, utilitarian, etc. The white oak for the box frame came out of a 100+ year old barn co...
[Legebla en Esperanto] [Above] Now take one of the 3 inch pieces and put it on the bar in front of the clamp head that you recently glued onto the bar. Mark the height of one of the side members of the head on the 3 inch piece. N.B. in this position the area above the head is going to be the fingers. [Above] Using the other 3 inch piece, place it in the ‘finger’ area of the one you just marked. Center it from side to side and mark where it sits. [Abov...
[Legebla en Esperanto] [Above] Take the 2 inch piece and measure 1 inch from one end. That end is henceforth the bottom. Mark the center between the sides and put a dimple in that spot. I used a convenient nail here. [Above] Now, using a 5/8 in. bit (or better, one just big enough for the nut,) drill a hole just deep enough for the 3/8 in. nut. You can see my hole is a little large. [Above] In the center of the shallow hole you just drilled, now drill a 3/...
[Legebla en Esperanto] I recently built two more of my wooden bar clamps. I decided to take photos along the way to show how they are made. These are made of 1×2 pine. Most of my bar clamps are of a very similar design. I’ve used them. They haven’t broken and they hold wood together during glue-ups. Using a stronger wood would make the clamp… well, stronger. N.B. I made these with basic hand tools. Using better tools will yield a more professional looking proje...
I vowed to myself that if a certain dresser were still on the curb on the morning of trash collection that I’d grab the drawers for myself. If I had a pickup truck, I might have grabbed the carcass as well. The tops are often of use. As I began breaking the drawers down, I noticed on one drawer front that someone had put the holes for the drawer pulls in the wrong spot and had filled them in. Oops. The drawer fronts have a veneer, but the core looks to be solid popla...
Hey Lumber Jocks. It’s been a while since we’ve been on here.. We just incorporated some custom iron in our woodworking! Check it out! http://www.woodboardsandbeams.com
I’ve received the brass hardware back from blasting and polishing. Now I can start cutting and laying out pieces for the carriage! I’ve spoken to several retired navy sailors and found out that people would take spent shells and or parts from decommission ships and cast them into other parts. So WM.C. Capehart was probably the person that made the cast pattern and the U.S.S. Vulcan was a repair ship that served beginning in the 1940’s and was scrapped in 2006. Here is the Wi...
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