This is where we left things last time…-----I built the small single drawer with half blind dovetails at all four corners. -----I installed a 9” full extension undermount drawer slide. I use a hardwood shim between the drawer bottom and the slide. I plane the shim to fine tune the fit of the drawer in its opening. -----Drawer installed.-----The drawer bottom is aromatic cedar.-----Here you can see the blocking that was added to receive the drawer slide, and the figure 8 fasten...
Here is my cherry refreshment table which will feature a single drawer and breadboard ends.-----I started by making breadboard mortises at the router table. The mortises are 1-1/4” deep and cut in multiple shallow passes. -----I used a 1/4” spiral bit to center a 3/8” groove in the breadboard ends. I made an initial pass in the standard right to left direction. Then I flipped the board end for end and made a pass from left to right to avoid a climb cut.-----I set up my t...
With the desk frame finished, I move on to installing the drawers.-----Since I am using single undermount slides for the drawers, I installed glide tacks to keep the drawer from tipping. I use wire cutters to trim the tack to about 1/4” long, which makes them easier to install. -----I centered the slide in the drawer opening , and secured it with mounting screws. -----To adjust the drawer height properly, I add a hardwood strip between the drawer bottom and the slide. The hardwood s...
In part 4 of this series I pre-raised the grain, and applied the initial coloring with Transtint Brown Mohogany Dye. When the dye is wet it looks amazing, but quickly dries to a lifeless sheen. -----The drawer fronts were stained before assembly. After the glueup dried overnight, the drawers were lacquered. -----The desk was stained with Varathane Dark Walnut oil based stain. When wet the stain looked great, but it too dried to a grayish cast. Not to worry though, once the lacquer was a...
With the corbels installed, we can move on to the drawers. -----Here my son sands the drawer parts. -----I made the drawer parts 3-1/4” (the exact width of the drawer opening) to accommodate my dovetail jig. After the dovetails were milled I edge planed them to final size, being careful to remove an equal amount from both edges. -----The dado creates two sections to each drawer.-----The 3/4 extension undermount slides will only display the front drawer compartment. Releasing the fr...
This is where we left things last time…-----The desk is quite strong, however it looks pretty plain at this stage. The next step is to add 8 inside corbels, so I made a template routing jig. I like to use toggle clamps, because they double as handles when routing. Carpet tape also works, but for workpieces this small I prefer toggle clamps to keep my hands clear of the bit. -----After cutting the rough shape at the bandsaw, I trim the corbels to size at the router table. Notice how...
With the legs complete, I milled up some stock for the rails. All joints are deep mortise and tenons, except for the top drawer rail which is a lapped dovetail. -----Test fitting the lower drawer rail.-----The lower side stretchers feature through tenons. -----The upper drawer rail features lapped dovetail joints. With the same dado blade setup used for the other long rails, I cut the dovetail to 1/2” thick, and established the side shoulders. -----After laying out the lines for t...
Well after taking second place at the Portland Woodworking Show with the last project, a cherry trundle bed, it was time to start the next project. -----The current project is a small library desk for my son’s room. He helped in the design phase, choosing corbels over spindles for the sides of the desk. We also have a special white oak board with a bullet lodged in it. Caden decided he wanted to incorporate it into the desk. -----I am fortunate to have a stack of 400 b.f. of white...
Here is the cherry trundle bed I am working on.-----The trundle box is built like a giant drawer, with dovetailed corners and a 3/4” plywood base. -----Since the base is 3/4” plywood, the dado cannot be concealed behind the dovetail.-----I filled the dado with some dovetail test cuts. The slides will conceal this area once installed. -----Here the trundle box has been coated with clear shellac, which adds almost no color to the poplar frame.-----Six casters are added to the b...
Here is the trundle bed I am working on.-----I marked the location for both the 1-3/8” face hole, and the 3/8” end grain hole before drilling. This bed bolt kit is from Rockler and it is quite a slick system. It provides an extremely strong and stable joint, with no visible fasteners. -----After both holes have been drilled, I insert 3/8” dowel centers. Then I reassemble the bed to dimple the location of the threaded inserts in the leg posts. -----The threaded insert ...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1448 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 93 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1472 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 394 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- mafe - 234 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 197 entries
- shipwright - 194 entries
- Rustic - 186 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- stefang - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 169 entries
- PurpLev - 163 entries