With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back. -----Once you get the armrests fit, everything else seems to come pretty easy on this project. -----Here is a look at the beveled through tenons in the armrest.-----A 1/4” dowel secures the mortise and tenon joint. This is a fairly deep hole, and is best drilled with a brad point bit. Test the fit of your dowel stock in a scrap board, as a snug fit is key here. Hopefully you have glued the armr...
I make some benches to be used with our kitchen table.A fun project that is not all that difficult. The benches turned out very sturdy and look great! Please watch and comment. Would love to hear what you all think. Thank you! http://youtu.be/nRKWt6uyClM Chris
This is the Morris Chair I am building.-----Well it’s time to make the corbels so I cut a tongue on some 1-1/8” thick stock. The tongue is 3/4” wide to fit snugly in the leg dado. -----Once the tongue is cut, I place the corbel blanks in a jig to trace the curved shape. -----Here the shape of the corbel has been transferred to the blanks.-----I rough cut the corbels at the bandsaw, cutting as close to the line as possible.-----Next I pattern rout the corbels to final sha...
This is how the Morris chair looks at this stage.-----I wanted to drill all the 5/8” holes for the backrest assembly before the glueup. It seems like this step would be easy to forget, so I’ll take care of it now. -----There are a lot of odds and ends to take care of before glueup, including easing edges of the parts at the router table. -----Now the side assembly can be dry fit. -----Note that the angled top side rails are 1/4” taller than the shoulders of the leg tenon...
Here is where the project is at currently.-----Before I angle the top side rails, I mark the height of the small tenon.-----Then I trim away the excess tenon at the bandsaw. -----Fitting the small tenon into the back leg mortises. -----The joint looks a little peculiar at this point because the top rails have not been angled yet. -----With the frame dry fit I can measure the height of the side slats. -----With the repeater set up on my miter saw, I cut the 10 slats to the same length. --...
Here is the project at hand, a slant arm Morris Chair. I am working off plans from the Popular Woodworking April 2011 issue, which I recommend you buy. The Author is Robert Lang. He posted a free diagram to Sketchup, but with this detailed of a project, you will want to order the back issue. My techniques differ from Robert’s methods significantly, so I will try to elaborate along the way. -----I like to start by laminating the legs for quartersawn figure on all four sides. ...
With the desk frame finished, I move on to installing the drawers.-----Since I am using single undermount slides for the drawers, I installed glide tacks to keep the drawer from tipping. -----I centered the slide in the drawer opening , and secured it with mounting screws. -----To adjust the drawer height properly, I add a hardwood strip between the drawer bottom and the slide. The hardwood strip can be planed to exactly the right thickness, and is glued in place. -----I then use some fel...
In part 4 of this series I pre-raised the grain, and applied the initial coloring with Transtint Brown Mohogany Dye. When the dye is wet it looks amazing, but quickly dries to a lifeless sheen. -----The drawer fronts were stained before assembly. After the glueup dried overnight, the drawers were lacquered. -----The desk was stained with Varathane Dark Walnut oil based stain. When wet the stain looked great, but it too dried to a grayish cast. Not to worry though, once the lacquer was a...
With the corbels installed, we can move on to the drawers. -----Here my son sands the drawer parts. -----I made the drawer parts 3-1/4” (the exact width of the drawer opening) to accommodate my dovetail jig. After the dovetails were milled I edge planed them to final size, being careful to remove an equal amount from both edges. -----The dado creates two sections to each drawer.-----The 3/4 extension undermount slides will only display the front drawer compartment. Releasing the fr...
This is where we left things last time…-----The desk is quite strong, however it looks pretty plain at this stage. The next step is to add 8 inside corbels, so I made a template routing jig. I like to use toggle clamps, because they double as handles when routing. Carpet tape also works, but for workpieces this small I prefer toggle clamps to keep my hands clear of the bit. -----After cutting the rough shape at the bandsaw, I trim the corbels to size at the router table. Notice how...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1264 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 95 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 88 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Just for Fun... - 82 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 75 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1286 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 388 entries
- dbhost - 370 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 311 entries
- Karson - 301 entries
- Martin Sojka - 297 entries
- William - 257 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- mafe - 216 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 187 entries
- Rustic - 184 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- shipwright - 168 entries
- PurpLev - 163 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 161 entries
- stefang - 148 entries