Its about time to give you guys an update. I have finished the rotor head. It has almost all the same parts as the real ones, and moves in all directions (both collective and cyclic movement). I also cut the size of the main rotor blades, which are wenge. At first, the rotor head could not take the weight of the blades, so extra supports were added. The rotor head is maple and the dish on top is cherry. I also began working on the seats. I have the middle row done. They are cherry, padauk...
The handle.I did not like how the handle was looking, it appeared to lack any of the swirling grain that the top inset panel has. That happens sometimes after shaping, the good stuff ends up on the floor. Also… if you look close, you will notice in the picture below that I sanded too deep into the right corner of the handle and exposed the spline! Oops! So I made a new one from Black Palm Wood, a first time for me. The black color ties in with the Wenge corner splines, plus I love ...
My Dad and I made a trip to the Black Forest Company today and picked up the supplies for the helicopter project. The body will be out of cherry, the main rotors will be wenge and other details will be other exotic woods such as padauk and yellowheart. This evening I laminated the sheets of cherry into a 7” by 7” by 27” (length) blank. Tomorrow the new bandsaw is going to get quite the work out cutting this baby out. Hopefully all goes well.
After glueing in the medallion, I went ahead and sanded it flush with the lid. I did this to be sure it looked ok. I was worried about chipped out areas below the rim showing up after the sanding and it would be much easier to replace the panel at this stage before the entire box was shaped. It would make aligning the jig for recutting the recess less of a nightmare. But it looked fine. The handle is a piece of cut off from the Maple medallion. I simply slotted a mortise in it and the lid ...
This shows the medallion getting glued in place. I decided to do a loose fit between the medallion and lid on this one due to the fact that I just couldn keep the bloodwood from chipping out even with a new cutter and climb cutting. I have done this before, filling the gap with black epoxy for a shadow line effect. I am using spacers to even out the gap. Before fitting the medallion I had ran a router around the inside of the box and cut a 3/8” x 3/8” rabbit for the lid to ...
I cut the lid a little oversize and made a jig to route out for the maple center panel (medallion). And after. I always make a test piece to size the real insert to. And here is the maple insert prior to rounding the corners which I do by eye on a disc sander and final fit with a sanding block a little at a time. Stay tuned
I carefully laid out the compartments on a sheet of plywood to be sure it would give the customer the room required. I then marked my cuts out for the body on the only piece of bloodwood I had left. I cut the board to the width of all four sides and slotted a kerf for the bottom. Here is a test piece of 1/4” ply. I mitered the sides and then cut slots for splines to add strength and dress it up a little. I used maple and wenge for the splines. This is how the spline...
This blog will show progress on an ArtBox I am building for a client. In September I received an email from a gentleman named Sean asking if I was interested in making a custom box to display his wrist watch collection. I said I typically dont do commission work for several reasons, but if he wanted to send me details I would look it over before deciding.We worked out the bugs and I agreed to make a box to hold eight watches. The color of the wood and the grain were important as well as...
Sometimes it can be difficult to recall the steps on takes and where I start and stop on this blog. I also tend to switch steps around sometimes depending on how the project is going. My next step after the first coat of poly on the lids and sides was to flip the box, put 2 coats of poly on, sanding with 400 grit paper in between coats and applying my label. I haven’t invested in a branding iron yet so my solution is to use double sided carpet tape and a business card. I will find...
After my previous post here, I got numerous feedback and great ideas from professionals on this site on how to optimize the cutlist diagram to make it useful for professional wood workers. This lead me to develop “Carpenter Cut” app for iPad/iPhone devices. It goes like this: Start with a sheet of plywood (e.g. 48×96), tell it the dimensions and quantity of each part you want to cut from it. Specify the kerf (size for your saw blade (0.125 is the default)), and indicate gr...
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