Restoring a Littlestown Harware & Foundry No. 750 vise. It has smooth jaws and perfect for smaller benches. It had been painted black, but everything was removed and started from the bottom. Subscribe for more videos!
Hi all! I’ve recently made myself a set of jaws for my engineering vice to make it more usable for woodworking. These jaws increase the surface area contacting the workpiece and adds pieces of leather for extra grip. I’m very happy with how they turned out and would love to know what you think of them! View on YouTube
See more photos on my project page [link] A bow vise is used to hold a violin bow while replacing the horse hair that vibrates the strings. I started by looking up such a thing and finding photos of (mostly) the commercially available models. Then I printed out a few screen shots for the details. I didn’t absolutely duplicate the commercial model, but I got something that will work. The wood is oak throughout. A few bibs and bobs of the hardware will be replaced with brass once I ge...
Hand planning can be frustrating if you don’t have the correct setup. This is a great step towards the right direction when thickness planning a board. Use this in combination with a holdfast and bench dog and you have the perfect setup. Check it out and subscribe to my channel for more woodworking!
More details about the Guide nut – where you see the red, that is where I had to trim out part of the thread that prevents the screw from fully advancing as the thread is being cut. If you do this, then you’re creating the wood screw will be so much quicker than mine. Only thing you may have to fight is the depth of your router bit. If too deep, then the freshly screw will be loose in the guide nut. If not deep enough, the advancement of the screw will get nearly if not imposs...
If you use the router method, you might have to put up with the fact that you might have some “burn” marks on the threads. Think of it this way – do those burn marks affect how the screw works/operates? NOPE – not one bit. It might be possible getting a crank on the end of the screw to help you keep the dowel/screw advancing and avoid the burn marks. It’s up to you, for me, I can live with it – somewhat. The nut – in a previous post I mentioned the guide nut wasn’t very clean when I ran...
Now the dowel I used to make the wood screw was not the prettiest – as it had some knots and almost some bark within it – I figured most likely I would be using it for a testing and not an actual screw for the bench. I took the guild block/nut with the router bolted on top, clamped it to my current bench (hollow core door) and got ready to do my first test. I turned on the router, put my dowel in and started away. NOTE: I had about 3”-4” from my old dowel to use for ...
I decided that I didn’t need to re-create the tap guide, as the one I had from version 2 sould work just fine. Here you can see the tap inserted into the soon-to-be guide nut. However, prior to this, I found my hole wasn’t quite 90 degrees, so I put that to the side and created a new blank for a nut. I took my burnisher for scraper, loaded that up in the drill press and checked to see if the table is set right – it wasn’t so I spent the next 15-20 minutes looking for...
After having version 2 fail, I kept on the idea that I could do this and figure it out. After the second version, I thought I’d better use my hard maple to make the next version. So I cut out a piece from my 8/4 board and took my hand plane (yes, that one I built :-) – I was kind of not wanting to use this hard maple with that nice looking edge grain. But since I had not other boards to use, I went ahead and used it. I glued it up and made a new 2” dowel to become...
I don’t have any pics of the process, but the aftermath. In this picture you can see my attempt on the screw. A couple of things I learned. My incorrect thought process would be that the dowels used to hold the guild block/nut together would be enough when creating the screw. Well, I was wrong and that ended up getting pushed out and caused the grove in dowel. The whole upper part of the dowel was my first attempt that I took off on the lathe – the second part you can somewhat...
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