Gluing veneer to hardwood can actually be a good thing. As long as the hardwood has the proper moisture content, which is between 6 to 8 percent. Also, the smaller the piece of hardwood the better. Wood only expands and contracts, the width of your board. Also I like to veneer both sides, to balance the hardwood. In the old days when furniture reached a zenith in Europe, between 1700-1900. Most of the highest quality pieces of furniture had veneer glued to the legs & aprons, which were...
Here’s how to make a Laminated block for my Turned S&P Mills, Ice Cream Scoop & wine bottle stopper 1= Cut lamination strips “Any Thickness you want, see diagram” by the width and length you need to make the size block you need for your project. Example 1/8”x2”x12” ,1/4”x2”x12” and so on!(It Does take some thought how you want to organize the laminates as the outer laminates will be glued together & the th...
After many comments and questions about the veneer ironing method, I made some time to do a blog on how I use this technique. The items needed are the same as used in the regular method of veneering; a straight edge, sharp knife (I use a scalpel), veneer tape, sandpaper, glue, distilled water, measuring cup, and a paint brush. Additionally, you’ll need an iron. Pick out your veneer and substrate, I usually use mdf. First, I match up any pieces that I need to make a large enough pi...
First off I wanted to do some marquertry but shelling out $400 plus for a slow speed scroll saw was too steep. I tried to find a used one locally, but after a couple of months it wasn’t happening. Then I was going through some old issues of “Woodwork” magazine and found an article on building your own foot powered scroll saw. If you can find it, they are no longer around, it was the October 2006 edition. Anyway the guy who made it was Brian Condran (email@example.com) and...
Hi all; Recently I needed to cut some wenge veneer to inlay into a Demilune table. The table is part of a private veneer course I’m teaching, and will be included in either an e-book, or a printed book. The fellow is writting it as I’m teaching, taking pictures as we go. One of the projects in the book has an wenge inlay. If you’ve ever worked with wenge, you know it’s a bit of a nasty wood to work with. Cutting it with a knife is difficult, as the wood tends to ...
“Necessity is the Mother of Invention” Plato….Ancient Greek Philosopher…(428 BC-348 BC) This short video shows the beauty and simplicity of the Band Saw Rip Fence. The L-shaped fence in the video was made from scrap MDF in 10 minutes and was available for use immediately thereafter. You will notice a protective strip of oak that was glued and pin nailed to the rip side of the fence. This will allow the fence to be used for a long time. The first time you use it y...
VACUUM PRESS BAG STORAGE CONTAINERI recently was inspired to start veneering using the vacuum press by Neil Lamens at Furnitology Productions. If you haven’t had a chance to check out his website and video blog, it is really worthwhile to pay a visit sometime. He is currently finishing a contemporary veneered ash lingerie chest. I have been fascinated by this series. He has really focused on design elements and shop efficiency. His two episodes ( Episode 6 - Part 1 and Episode 6 - Part ...
In the last session I finished the 10 drawers. Now it is time start on the door. In this session, I: 1. Veneered the door panel2. Cut the rails and styles for the door3. Used loose mortise and tenon joinery for doors4. Cut the tombstone arch5. Assemble door6. Cut mortise for hinges I started with the main body done. Session ended with a completed door. First step was to create the veneered door panel. I used 1/4” maple ply with amboyna burl on the front and mahogany...
. I have this desk all ready to get lacquered and man o’ man how I love the smell of lacquer. I get all ready to start my process and begin to shoot the desk. I do this this way most of the time. I shoot a coat of lacquer sealer let it rest an hour or so and then sand with 600 grit paper. I then start my top coat, I do this step pretty much the same as the sealer. When I go back to check my work about 1/2 hour later the top has all of these bubbles in it. What the @#*^ is this??? ...
This weekend was more like chemistry class than shop time. I have been experimenting with finishes for the rotary cut bubinga (kevazinga) panels. If I could get a clear coat that did not change the raw wood color, I would be happy. But so far most of my choices have darkened up the raw wood. I am really looking for a clear wood finish that enhances the grain without darkening it. Or a decent coloring that keeps the contrast against the mahogany border without obscuring the grain. ...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1597 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 96 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1622 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 279 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- shipwright - 218 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 198 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 187 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 176 entries