Hello all, things have been deathly quiet on the first installment of this blog, which I started due to interest on the project I posted here. Having started, I should go on, so in this post I’ll show how the remaining veneered panels for the table aprons and the legs came together. Here is the substrate for one of the small side apron panels being planed up, with the thick re-sawn veneer that would be stuck to it. The substrate is a piece of Primavera and I did not back it with a ...
Hello all, I had a couple of peeps interested in seeing the process shots of the Cocobolo and Leopardwood table with drawer that I posted, so I thought I’ll blog it here split into a few parts so nobody has to scroll through it all in one go… You can see the finished project here. I don’t have a shot of the small Cocobolo board I was given that inspired this table before I started cutting it up but it was a couple of board feet. There was a lovely rich heartwood section d...
So after being so careful with my first humidor only to screw it up on the hinge install, I tried a few different techniques on some scrap for installing the hinges than decided to build another box. This time I decided I would do mitered corners with veneer splines for strength, since I didn’t want to mess around with edging. I had a beautiful piece of quarter sawn Bubinga that had been sitting on my rack for a few months now, begging to be turned into something. I decided it wanted...
In continuation with my previous post, I began this experience with a trip to Windsor Plywood to source the necessary materials. I ended up finding a nice piece of quarter sawn Spanish Cedar which was 4/4 by 6” – 8’ long, finished on 2 faces; a nice piece of quarter sawn Red Oak which was 4/4 by 6” – 6’ long, finished on all sides; A full sheet of birch plywood and a roll of Walnut veneer. I took a trip over to Lee Valley to get some quadrant hinges and als...
Time to plan out the design for my first Humidor. This will be a very basic box built to minimize cuts, make efficient use of lumber and hopefully hold a regular humidity. I started with a simple dimension that I wanted, I figured an internal box dimension of 12” by 8” would be a nice size to fit a beginners collection of cigars and cigar paraphernalia. I knew I wanted to have a depth of about 6” simply because I wanted to use the approx. factory width of the lumber I get...
In this video, I cut the three pieces that make up the top that totals 8’ when fully expanded. I also show how to install the butterfly hinges for the folding extension.Then I cut corners off and prepare the lumber for the solid wood frame along with making a solid “inlay” detail around the entire top. As always, I welcome your questions and comments! To get updates of this build as I go along, please follow me on Instagram – https://instagram.com/guyswoodshop...
More veneering. I actually have two veneer layers on the drawer fronts. This is not by design, rather by necessity. For various reasons the initial veneering was just not to the quality I wanted and there was some other visible damage. So the only option I could see was simply add another layer. But the question was how to do it? Many many chapters ago I showed how I veneered the inside and outside of the curved fronts using a combination of vacuum bags and clamps over a bending form ...
This time I’m starting to make the top for the table. Since it’s going to have a solid wood frame around it, I need to use veneered panels. I show how to make shop sawn veneer and get it ready for veneering. Then I show how I glue it to the substrate, and how to use the vacuum bag to press it to the substrate. I had a lot of fun doing this as it is a new process for me. If you would like to learn more about the vacuum bag veneering process, I recommend going to Andy Pitts’...
The curled bits of inlay were carefully removed from the table and put aside. Then I used some water and a steam iron to heat the vacant areas and remove the old glue from the plywood base. I also used the same technique to remove the old glue from the removed inlay pieces. Then I used the steam iron again to steam the individual pieces of inlay an pressed them between two pieces of plywood to get them flat again. This worked quite well. Some of the inlay was so bad I had to replace it s...
Once I had the basic concept sketched out I needed to see the thing in the actual space. The height of the table is important for ease of use, aesthetic proportions, and to provide enough clearance along the sides to reach the chair controls. The angle of the table is important to set the angle of the chairs so they fit in the room. Yes, I actually set the chairs and divined the angle. Also important was the arc of the front of the drawers. So after making many real size 2D drawings I ...
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