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Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'veneering'

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View threehands's profile

Boat building #1: In need of spiritual applicant with free plans

09-27-2009 06:08 PM by threehands | 2 comments »

Hello all. I am in need. A need to fill the void. The void is an empty spot. The empty spot in an area of the shop I haven’t seen in years. There actually is a floor under all that “junk” as the bride would say. (I say golden treasures.) But, what I need now is spiritual help and a set of free plans for a drift boat or dory. I know I can build one, just need the plans. Have looked and downloaded several but cant find ones concerning a Montana style. Those guys craft some s...

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View Dennis Zongker's profile

Gluing Veneer To Radius Box Parts, "Made Easy"

08-31-2009 04:48 PM by Dennis Zongker | 31 comments »

Gluing veneer to hardwood can actually be a good thing. As long as the hardwood has the proper moisture content, which is between 6 to 8 percent. Also, the smaller the piece of hardwood the better. Wood only expands and contracts, the width of your board. Also I like to veneer both sides, to balance the hardwood. In the old days when furniture reached a zenith in Europe, between 1700-1900. Most of the highest quality pieces of furniture had veneer glued to the legs & aprons, which were...

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View Scarcraig01's profile

Barrister Book Case Tutorial #1: Maple Barister

08-29-2009 12:04 AM by Scarcraig01 | 4 comments »

Here is the completed quartersawn solid white oak barrister with frame and panel sides that I recently completed. (Terrible pic, taken in a narrow hallway with bad light!) I have completed 5 out of the 7 total that I plan to build in this style. I will return to building the remaining two after I complete the Maple Plywood ones that I’m blogging about now. I have decided to put these on hold to build the maple ones for my sister as a Christmas present. When I finish her maple...

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View Ozan Gulec's profile

Re-sawing Quartered Rift White oak

08-28-2009 10:42 PM by Ozan Gulec | 10 comments »

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View Tom8021's profile

foot powered Scroll saw #6: Spring my foot

07-18-2009 05:48 PM by Tom8021 | 1 comment »

I bought a package of four springs at Home Depot. You can put a spring at the back or at the front. I tried the different sizes in different places and picked the 4” one near the front. I put it on by gluing short pieces of dowels, one to the base and the other to the bottom arm, and slipping it on. The next thing to do is drill a hole in the end of the bottom arm. I failed to mention that the hole for the blade holder is 1” in from the front end of both arms. Also, I cut ab...

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View Tom8021's profile

foot powered Scroll saw #5: Table and trundle

07-18-2009 02:12 AM by Tom8021 | 2 comments »

Some scroll work requires you to tilt the table. I accomplish this by allowing the table to pivot on the tower end and created a trundle on the opposite end. The thing to remember is the top of the table is 5” off the base. With the table width at 12” I created a curve so that the radius is 4 1/2” . The trundle is 2” wide 1/2” ply with a 3/4” slot in the middle. The slot can be smaller it just needs to be able to pass the lag bolt through it. The su...

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foot powered Scroll saw #4: The Tower

07-17-2009 07:33 PM by Tom8021 | 1 comment »

The tower needs to be beefy. I had some 7/8 ASH laying around so I used it. Everything hinges on the tower so don’t be shy adding a few bolts. The lower part ( 2 1/2×15 1/2) is just bolted to the base with three lag bolts. I drilled the base so the bolt heads sat flush with the bottom. There are dados for the vertical pieces. I wanted to make sure I could minimize any movement and I think this works with the triangle supports. By the way the dimension of 13” on the to...

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View Tom8021's profile

foot powered Scroll saw #3: tension adjusting and blade mechanizium

07-17-2009 12:49 AM by Tom8021 | 6 comments »

To make it so you can adjust the tension on the blade I took a 12” threaded screw and put it through oversize holes in the back end of the arms. I put a nut on the bottom and a adjustable knob on the top. The other end was a bit harder to figure out. I kept browsing over all of the fasteners at Home Depot, thinking there has to be a way to make a solid connection between the arms and the blades. Then it hit me and I think it is simple and strong. I took a threaded rod coup...

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View Tom8021's profile

foot powered Scroll saw #2: foot powered Scroll saw #2:

07-16-2009 09:01 PM by Tom8021 | 1 comment »

Let’s go over what my dimensions are: I used scraps I had around the shop, Base 32×16 x 3/4 melaminetable 36×12 x 3/4 melamine Arms 36×3/4×5/8 oakarm support (rides on top of the arm) 30×5/8×1 1/2tower 2 1/2×7/8×13 from the base You can see the arm top and arm are glued together perpendicular to each other for strength. The arms are attached about 4” in from end with the lower arm 3” off the base and the upper 8”...

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View Tom8021's profile

foot powered Scroll saw #1: foot powered Scroll saw #1:

07-16-2009 12:32 AM by Tom8021 | 6 comments »

First off I wanted to do some marquertry but shelling out $400 plus for a slow speed scroll saw was too steep. I tried to find a used one locally, but after a couple of months it wasn’t happening. Then I was going through some old issues of “Woodwork” magazine and found an article on building your own foot powered scroll saw. If you can find it, they are no longer around, it was the October 2006 edition. Anyway the guy who made it was Brian Condran (briancondran@aol.com) and...

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