LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'veneering'

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View Tom8021's profile

foot powered Scroll saw #3: tension adjusting and blade mechanizium

1870 days ago by Tom8021 | 6 comments »

To make it so you can adjust the tension on the blade I took a 12” threaded screw and put it through oversize holes in the back end of the arms. I put a nut on the bottom and a adjustable knob on the top. The other end was a bit harder to figure out. I kept browsing over all of the fasteners at Home Depot, thinking there has to be a way to make a solid connection between the arms and the blades. Then it hit me and I think it is simple and strong. I took a threaded rod coup...

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View Tom8021's profile

foot powered Scroll saw #2: foot powered Scroll saw #2:

1870 days ago by Tom8021 | 1 comment »

Let’s go over what my dimensions are: I used scraps I had around the shop, Base 32×16 x 3/4 melaminetable 36×12 x 3/4 melamine Arms 36×3/4×5/8 oakarm support (rides on top of the arm) 30×5/8×1 1/2tower 2 1/2×7/8×13 from the base You can see the arm top and arm are glued together perpendicular to each other for strength. The arms are attached about 4” in from end with the lower arm 3” off the base and the upper 8”...

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View Tom8021's profile

foot powered Scroll saw #1: foot powered Scroll saw #1:

1871 days ago by Tom8021 | 6 comments »

First off I wanted to do some marquertry but shelling out $400 plus for a slow speed scroll saw was too steep. I tried to find a used one locally, but after a couple of months it wasn’t happening. Then I was going through some old issues of “Woodwork” magazine and found an article on building your own foot powered scroll saw. If you can find it, they are no longer around, it was the October 2006 edition. Anyway the guy who made it was Brian Condran (briancondran@aol.com) and...

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View John Gray's profile

Edge Banding Particle Board with Solid Hardwood

1885 days ago by John Gray | 9 comments »

I’m building an 18” V-Drum Sander from http://www.stockroomsupply.com/V_Drum_Sander.php Stockroom Supply. I was given a Particle Board piece to use as a top it’s laminated with a thin slick veneer top and bottom. I’d like to band the edges with Oak that I already cut and mitered. The question is how to attach the Oak to the Particle Board edges? I’m read plenty of horror stories about splitting the Particle Board when using screws and/or nails to attach it. ...

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View cylis007's profile

Holtzapffel Workbench #3: Bench top and base come together forever

1888 days ago by cylis007 | 5 comments »

It has been some time since I have updated my blog on my progress. The bench is coming along nicely. I began working on the table top and am learning a lot as I progress. The top requires a lot of work. I don’t see myself building another bench for a long time. I am glad that I thought about what I would need before ever beginning. Since I started my bench, I have seen other’s benches on this site that look great. It has made me think about a wish list for the next bench,...

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View cabinetmaster's profile

Eye Brow Windows #3: Building the Windows

1896 days ago by cabinetmaster | 5 comments »

Ok, now for the actual building of the eyebrow windows. This is where we left off. Remember that the side pieces are 3/8” plywood 43” tall, 1 1/2” at the bottom tapered to 33” at the top. After attaching the side pieces, I was able to measure around the circumference of the arch and determine the length of the top pieces. I used 3/8” bendy board (flex-core) and cut a slight angle on each end where it attaches to the plywood on the sides. The bendy board go...

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View cabinetmaster's profile

Eye Brow Windows #1: The existing windows to be replaced

1897 days ago by cabinetmaster | 5 comments »

Well I finally got all 7 of these eybrow windows done and sent to the site for install. As you can see from these pictures, whoever did the job the first time did not get the veneer on right and it bubbled. The owners did not give the people a chance to fix it. They told us that they were very happy with all the cabinets and woodwork that we were doing and they wanted us to do it right. I think the main problem was that there was very little substructure behind the veneer. I ...

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View mreagleeyes's profile

Filing Cabinet #1: Filing Cabinet

1906 days ago by mreagleeyes | 3 comments »

So the brief was that they wanted a place to store all the paper work in the house. Passports, house insurance, car related stuff and all the other paper trails that we must keep hold off.I’ve checked out the room that they want the piece to go into, and they have a rather ugly looking Mahogany table with the computer on it, they have asked if I would try and match this piece. I’ve looked over it so many times and still the piece says to me “Ugly”. So I’m going t...

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View John8059's profile

That was the mistake! - Inlay Banding

1924 days ago by John8059 | 13 comments »

I am finally working on this project again and ran into another problem. You can find out how I got this far from blogs I posted earlier. Last time I showed how I set up guides to cutting the inlay banding grooves. I eventually got all the inlay banding installed, but when I went to sand it flush with the veneer I found I could feel that the resulting surface was uneven. If I could feel it, imagine how bad it was going to look finished! (Keep in mind my hands are trained to feel irregula...

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View tenontim's profile

Ironing Veneer

1926 days ago by tenontim | 8 comments »

After many comments and questions about the veneer ironing method, I made some time to do a blog on how I use this technique. The items needed are the same as used in the regular method of veneering; a straight edge, sharp knife (I use a scalpel), veneer tape, sandpaper, glue, distilled water, measuring cup, and a paint brush. Additionally, you’ll need an iron. Pick out your veneer and substrate, I usually use mdf. First, I match up any pieces that I need to make a large enough pi...

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