I have started a full sized chess board made out of veneer. The squares are made from Nigerian Satinwood, Curly Maple, and edged with Mozambique. I used a dyed black veneer on it’s side for banding between the squares, and a pre-made banding for the outer trim. The board was made with most likely the most common method of cutting strips, and glueing them into a stripe pattern. Then cutting equal strips the other direction and glueing into the checker pattern. I added very thi...
Let me make a disclaimer here. Some people requested a procedural series on this and I threw this together in 17 minutes! There are mistakes and this thing is ROUGH at best, but it will give you an idea on how to get started…Think of it as an outline, not an exhaustive tutorial…..Off we go…. You’ll need these items….Veneer, a craft knife with a new xacto blade (don’t use cheap off brands, the good ones are less frustrating and they don’t cost that ...
I just posted some images of my shop made vacuum system in the project gallery. It was suggested I start a blog on its construction – so here we go. I followed the online directions provided at JowWoodworker.com I bought 2 rebuilt Thomas pumps and the Mac valve, regulator, relay kit that Joe sells. FYI – I am in no way affiliated or associated with JoeWoodworker I’m just letting you know where I got the info to make my system. With the 2 pumps and the reservoir syst...
Hi Everyone; I just got the go ahead to build a 17 foot dining room table. This going to be challenging, as it has three pedestal bases, which are heavily carved, have some japanning and gold leaf, in addition to veneering. The top will be veneered, include some marquetry, have a couple leaves, which will be stored in table structure. I have to admit, I’m wondering what I got myself into this time, but being the president of the imaginary; ”If It Ain’t Impossible, W...
Well I’ve still been busy building additional cabinets. I’m working on the lower cabinets, because the upper cabinets need to match placement of the lower cabinets and I’m now working myself into a corner. That’s the sink corner. Old picture. It’s just to the right of the range. So what I’ve accomplished is building the cabinets to the left of the range. The range is being moved about 18” to the left so the cabinets that I’m building...
This very large, commissioned credenza was designed as an entertainment center to sit below a big, wall mounted, plasma TV. It is 76” wide 24-1/2” deep, and 34” tall. The cabinet and base are all solid walnut and the doors are bookmatched walnut burl veneers both inside and out. But first I want to thank everyone who visited and responded to my last blog; A glass top table with opposing arches And as always, I welcome your comments AND critiques on this latest project. The mai...
I call this the “Opposing Arches” table. This commissioned glass top display table, or buffet, is 50” wide at the base, 14” deep and 29” tall. It supports a piece of glass that is ¾” thick by 18” by 66”. The construction is shop sawn zebrawood veneers, laminated on two layers of 1/8” poplar bending ply, on a curved torsion box inner core. The curved members are then framed in sold quarter sawn sapelli. The divider box is shop sawn veneer, cut from a very fine grained piece of Macassar...
Last month, I posted about my adventures in hand-cut veneer. I was pretty proud of myself for how well it turned out; I felt a bit like David fighting Goliath (Goliath being the giant hurdle of working without power tools) and cutting off his big fat head. I got several very positive comments both here and over on my personal blog. The comments made me feel like even though I am still brand new in the craft, that there are already some things I can do well. One comment in particular (from ...
So I don’t have access to store-bought veneer (no stores) and I don’t have a bandsaw, so it looks like I’m on my own for veneer. And since I needed it for this box lid, why not start now? I was feeling pretty confident going into this endeavor with my new ryoba. And it didn’t let me down. I didn’t measure or mark anything. A fellow LumberJock told me it should be 1/16” or thinner. So I just put the saw a smidge away from the edge of the board and tried t...
• My marquetry guidelines: There’s nothing to it,... really just get a nice and strait ruler, a sharp normal utility-knife, scotch-tape , patience and a small hard sandingblock with 150 and 180 grain and start cutting, thats how I learned it….. Guidelines: - I generally use MDF as a work-surface because it has no grain and therefore the knife won’t try to ‘wonder off’. - Never try to cut the veneer in one go, always make multiple lite strokes dependin...
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