Interestingly, after application of two coats of shellac sealer, then sanding them down, and then a coat of Original Waterlox, the grain of the cherry box top looks really smooth, flowing and with a nice glow. Like here: With Waterlox alone, the grain is almost lost, because the cherry, even though not blotchy, appears covered with dark and light speckles obscuring the natural look. Like this: The birch bottom of the box is blotchy under just Waterlox. Shellac under oil varni...
Ok, ready for cutting the top off this box. Fingers crossed… The maple sides have some figure in them, so I have been looking for a finish to maximize the shift in luster depending on the angle of view, a.k.a. 3D effect, a.k.a. chatoyancy. Just wanted to share my findings from the internet here… It turned out that maximizing chatoyancy and making the figure more visible are two different things achieved by different means. I guess, the former is sometimes also cal...
Actually, Marc Spagnuolo, aka The Wood Whisperer, and I got together in May to do some work in his shop. I was in the Phoenix area for my mom’s birthday and took some time to meet Marc and visit his place. Take a look at the Jewelry Box we put together. It was fun work. Jewelry Box If you’re coming to Portland, learn about 3 Simple Finishes with me next week at the Studio, 7/24-26. The Northwest Woodworking Studio
I have sanded one of the halves of the top; the squeeze out cleans up very easily without softening or gumming up the sander. As far as finishing goes, I have been thinking about Watelox Original as suggested in numerous posts on walnut tops here on LJ. Mineral oil/beeswax mixture is not an option for sure. Waterlox is durable and forms moisture-, stain- and heat-resistant film; scratches can be repaired easily by applying locally a new layer of the finish. Walnut is an extremely porous...
Well, I decided to use epoxy after all, and it seems like it’s going to give the desired effect. I put a quart of epoxy on it for the first coat because I didn’t want it all to just run off the sides. After it dries I will put another quart on. It was surprisingly easy to work with, and had a pretty lengthy drying time. I used a flat block of wood to spread an even coat, and a foam brush to do the side parts. I ran a propane torch over the surface to take out the bubbles, which...
Charlene painted the boat this week. Today it was hotter than the hinges of Hades, but I went out and tried to put a couple of coats of varnish on the inside. I’m going to have to wait a while for it to cure hard so I can sand it down and try again, that first coat was soaking in and drying super fast, so looks like crap, but… I got to the “okay, gonna try to test rig this thing” stage, and I think we’ve got enough of the hardware set and enough water sealed tha...
Well, it’s taken nine months, but the project is finally complete! In my last post I had just finished cutting the dovetails for the carcass sides and top. From there I moved on to cutting the dado’s for the interior panels: With the joinery all cut for the interior I was ready for a trial fit: From there I went to work on the doors and the beaded face frame. The bead was milled separately and applied to the inside of the face-frame. The doors are cope ...
Oil-based finishes are typically the first type of finish we confront as woodworkers, be it straight oil or a can polyurethane. Although they are all derived from oil, these finishes can vary widely in terms of application method, durability, and maintenance. The key to understanding these finishes is to understand their ingredients. With that foundation in your tool belt, you can start looking at ingredients lists instead of brand names and labels, and you’ll know exactly what to ex...
Recently, I asked Guild members to help me select a finish for my new wall-hanging tool chest. We had the standard options including water-based poly, shellac, lacquer, oil-based poly, and oil & wax. Although water-based poly won with 27% of the votes, there was a very vocal minority (you know who you are lol) who wanted to see the oil & wax finish. So this resulted in a number of discussions about oil & wax and what kind of value this finish has to a woodworker. Personally, I...
An important aspect of building furniture that many new woodworkers overlook, is the importance of finishing BEFORE the project is completely glued together. That’s the primary focus of this part of the series. A few of the topics covered in this part: How to deal with color differences between plywood and solid wood trim. Raising the grain and applying water-based dyes. Theory and application of wiping varnish. Creating shelf pin holes for adjustable shelving. Applying ang...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1524 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 94 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1549 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 394 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- mafe - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- shipwright - 211 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 187 entries
- Rustic - 186 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 181 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 166 entries