LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'tutorial'

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View wdwrkr631's profile

New YouTube Channel

01-10-2015 12:31 AM by wdwrkr631 | 5 comments »

Hello all. Started a YouTube channel a week ago. I have posted five videos so far. Check them out and let me know how you like them. If you like the videos please subscribe to my channel. By subscribing you will be notified when ever a new video is posted. Thanks in advance for your support. Here is a link to my channel woodworker 631. www.youtube.com/channel/UC7UhNmNfkcCZQxuOuKU9PJg

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View pjones46's profile

Finishing Info for the Woodworker #1: What are the differences between stains and dyes

01-09-2015 09:41 PM by pjones46 | 2 comments »

What are the differences between stains and dyes? Very simply put: With stains, the pigment tends to remain on the surface of the wood and lodge in the pores, while dyes penetrate deeply and color the wood from within. Dyes Dyes are colorants that are usually mixed in a carrier vehicle (solvents) such as mineral spirits, water or alcohol. The dyes used in woodworking are characterized as transparent, as they bring about color changes in wood without obscuring the figure. The molecul...

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View pjones46's profile

Finishing Process of Interest #1: Chemical Ebonizing

01-07-2015 01:36 PM by pjones46 | 4 comments »

A while back, I put together a set of links of random finishing topics which I posted in my blog, called Finishing Tips #5: Finishing tips #5. One of the links listed coved the topic of Chemical-Ebonizing as I saw an interest from some concerning the procedure, so this is the time to single out that process. This process does not use dye, ink or paint, and can be carried out quite easily. As a matter of formality follow proper safety precautions such as wearing safety glasses, hand prot...

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View pjones46's profile

Finishing Info for the Woodworker #3: Finishes and their Compatibility

01-07-2015 04:38 AM by pjones46 | 0 comments »

Almost any finishing product can be applied over any other as long as the “other finish” is dry and the product you’re brushing doesn’t dissolve and smudge the existing. For example: Let’s for arguments sake you are not using spray equipment and that you have made up and applied a water based PVA blotch controller as describe in my previous article Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat 1 to a cherry surface. You then apply a water-soluble dye for color and let it dry completely. At ...

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View haskins's profile

birdsmouth router bits

01-07-2015 12:35 AM by haskins | 5 comments »

I recently discovered on YouTube these bits that are called birds mouth router bits. They make 6,8,12 sided boxes by cutting a notch of a certain angle in the board down its length. Once routed, the board is cut to length dependent on the shapes diameter. The interlock makes glueing and clamping incredibly easy. I got a set of three for $40

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View WoodAndShop's profile

The Portable Moravian Workbench at The Woodwright’s School

01-06-2015 01:57 PM by WoodAndShop | 7 comments »

[See this original blog post here] I regularly get asked “Joshua, can you recommend a workbench that is affordable, sturdy, portable, and easy to build?” I used to laugh at the requests. But I recently discovered a historical 18th century workbench that was resurrected from the past by Will Myers, an instructor at Roy Underhill’s The Woodwright’s School in Pittsboro, North Carolina. The old Workbench is part of the Moravian collection at Old Salem, in Winston-Salem, North Carolina. ...

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View pjones46's profile

Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat #2: Waterbourne Finish Coatings

01-06-2015 04:15 AM by pjones46 | 1 comment »

As previously mentioned in Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat #1, most any standard finish can be used as a wash coat. These are Lacquer (both waterborne and solvent type/nitrocellulose), polyurethane (both waterborne and oil based), Oil-based Varnish, and Shellac. The above being said, lets talk Waterbourne. It really makes no difference which you use waterborne lacquer, waterborne shellac or waterborne polyurethane since they all are simply water-borne acrylics—none are really lacque...

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View Patricelejeune's profile

Treasure Box - Series #2 - Post #16: Finished with the marquetry panels

01-05-2015 09:05 PM by Patricelejeune | 7 comments »

With those and of year year festivities, I still have been able to advance a bit this project, between making macarons with my wife for the end of the year gifts for our friends And also, after a snow fall due to a cold front coming from Canada, a little bit of playing in the snow in the mountains with my wife, like any San Diegan. I finished to put together the marquetry panels. The bone where finally dyed I inserted those last pieces in the top and sides ...

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View Dave Rutan's profile

Dave's Videos #3: The Slit Drum

01-05-2015 02:45 PM by Dave Rutan | 2 comments »

View on YouTube This is an older project, but I finally edited the video. [Spektebla ankaŭ en Esperanto] Slit Drum A slit drum is a musical instrument in the percussion family. It is usually made from bamboo or wood in the form of a box with one or more slits in the top. The majority of slit drums have only one slit, but some have two or three slits in the form of the letter “H”. If the tongues have different lengths or thicknesses, the drum will produce two different tones.T...

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View pjones46's profile

Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat #1: Finishing with Wash Coats

01-04-2015 03:10 AM by pjones46 | 2 comments »

I am starting to put together an article covering finishing and this will be part of the coverage but not just limited to preventing blotching as a wash coat will aid in a more consistent staining color. This will be updated as my thoughts are organized. This is only a small portion: A wash coat is a coat of thinned finish that’s applied to bare wood to partially seal the surface before a stain is applied. It reduces the amount of stain from soaking into the wood and causing blotching. ...

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