I rough cut the oak barn beams, jointed, planed the four legs and let them sit overnight. After marking out for stretcher mortise, beveling the edges, and turning the pads on the bottom of the leg I headed to the mortiser. I don’t have a 7/8” mortise chisel, and I also wanted a very clean mortise as the tenon is a through tenon. What I did was to use a 3/8” chisel and stayed away from the scribe line. I then went back and cleaned up the mortise by hand with a chisel. ...
Fine Woodworking Magazine published an article many years ago of a table that Sydney Barnsley built in the 1920’s.The table is now in a museum in Cheltenham England. The article had original drawings that I redrew in Sketchup.I traveled to England last year to see the original and I have just procured some old white oak barn beams that I am going to use for the undercarriage. The table fascinates me and will require a lot of hand work and chip carving.It may take a while, but I wi...
The other day I was working from home, I was bummed out because I had been to busy to do much woodworking lately, so I said “Hey, standing desks are supposed to be good for your, and my “joinery bench” is about the right height, why not put my laptop on the bench?!” If I cant woodwork, I can at least be around my tools. One thing leads to another and while on a conference call I get the bug in me to reshape this plane tote. I’ve always disliked the shape of...
Hello All, I began a Youtube account to show the stages in making windsor style chairs – starting from a tree. I invite you all to come have a look. I have about 40 minutes of footage, and will add videos as my progress with the chair goes. Enjoy! https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLjcQyPlmR1Lx2mnX0Upkm8E-QruOXv2gC
So far I have covered the basic case construction. Next we need to add the back panel and make the dust frame (or web frame) for the drawer. This will also serve as the installation point for the upper knife hinge. So, I started by gluing up a 1/4” panel of Sapele for the back, using the router bit as a guide for the final thickness. Next, we can cut the groove in the case pieces to accept the panel. I am using a 1/4” straight bit and cutting 3/16” deep. We don’t...
Alright, lets get started. The goal today was to get the case dry fit, and that means cutting the mitered edge dovetails. here is what the goal is: The point of this joint is to get a nice through dovetail, without the butt joint in the front. I want the nightstand to be mitered on both the front and back of the case, so we have 16 miters to cut. We’ll start with our panels glued up, flattened and cut to final size: Now, with a marking gauge set for the panel thickness...
Ok Jocks, this blog series will cover a nightstand I am building based on a Krenov display cabinet (for the inside) and Nkashima’s “Rose's Night Stand”. The design is mostly in my head, so I dont have any formal drawings or a sketchup file, but the overall dimensions will be 14”D x 16”W x 27”H. Here is a picture of the inspiration.. And the inside of the Nightstand will have a shelf and 3 drawers. The case will be made with mitered edge dovetails, an...
I’ve been searching for powerful CAD/CAM software that is affordable/free. I finally found it in Fusion 360 from Autodesk. They offer a full featured parametric 3D modeling software with integrated CAM. The integrated CAM makes the CAM parametric to the geometry as well. Currently, there is only a single product in the family which is free for personal/hobby use (yes legally). The full featured version is $300/year now. Come November 8, 2014, they will be offering a standard version ...
I have been waiting for parts to actually do the hanging, but over the last couple weeks, I got the frame ready and had time to get the video update put together. Check it out:
Some of you might remember when I made a drawer pull using the drill press. I got the idea from an article by Fine Woodoworking Magazine. I thought that it might be possible to extend the idea to rasp handles, but the added length could present a few problems. Because the rasp handle is considerably longer than a drawer pull and would add to the force exerted by the rasp, I thought that this would need to be circumvented. I came up with the idea of using a sharpened threaded rod as a drive ce...
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