Well I enrolled in a 10 week furniture making course here in Mississauga. It is offered through the Living Arts Center by Matthew Agostinis. The first class is on April 22nd and will run until June. I will post the progress I make on the yet to be determine project I will be working on. I would like to hear from anyone who has taken this the course or heard of Matthew his link is attached ”:http://mafurniture.com/
Well it has been a while since my last posting on this project. As promised I will show my way of doing marquetry and carvings. Remember that these are my techniques, and yours may vary. There are a ton of ways of doing things and I’m sure there’s a lot of ways easier then mine. For instance many of you may prefer to use a router to route out a majority of the material, then use chisels to cut to the line. I use chisels simply because I do the work on my dining room table. I...
This article discusses the visual, but not decorative, aspects of mat design. There are many books written about this subject, so this is far from a complete treatise. Generally, the total width of the mats (between the image edge and the frame sight edge) should be wider than the width of the frame. The purpose is to provide a visual break between the frame and the image so the image becomes the center of attention instead of having to compete visually with the frame. Of course, this...
For best viewing, the center of the framed image should be approximately 63” above the floor. Any picture frame larger than 8” X 10” should be hung using two hooks. This reduces the torque on the frame and also prevents movement of the picture on the wall. If the wire on the frame is too tight to use two hooks then the frame should be re-wired. When wiring a frame, the wire should be long enough so that the angle between the wire attaching point and the nearest hooking position is app...
All parts of the frame package (backing board, mounting board, mats, art, glazing) need to be spaced away from the edge of the frame so that natural expansion/contraction of each part does not cause bowing or cracking. In general, there should be 1/16” space on each side and 1/8” space at the top, more for large frames.
This article is not about the artistic placement of art but rather about the physical placement. Any framed art or item that you value should never be hung on an exterior wall or above an active fireplace. Exterior walls go thorough drastic temperature changes during the days and seasons. These changes can set up conditions that cause cycles of dryness and condensation inside a frame package which, in turn, can cause damage to the contents. Active fireplaces, whether buring wood or natu...
A picture frame typically has a dust cover on the back. As it’s name implies, this cover is designed to keep dust out of the frame package. However, it is really more important than that. Properly covering the obverse of a frame keeps out dust, insects and airborne pollutants that could cause harm to the frame contents. Kraft paper has historically been the covering material of choice, although truly not the best. In my opinion, the best covering material is Tyvek. You know, the s...
There are many books about preservation of framed art, documents, photos and objects. This is in no way a comprehensive treatment. In general, the contents of the framing package (backer board, mounting board, mats, etc.) should be acid free. Even if the art or item being framed is acidic this is generally the rule to prevent the package contents from degrading over time. If the art, document or photo is on an acid free substrate (paper) this is especially true as the acid from non-acid...
When framing anything using glass or acrylic as the glazing, there should be an air gap of at least 1/8” between the art or object being framed and the inside surface of the glass. This is to prevent moisture, from the condensation that will almost certainly occur, from transferring to the framed item. A common way to accomplish this is to use two layers of matting between the glass and the artwork. Other ways include special plastic spacers or to use a secondary rabbet in the frame ...
Deviating from more traditional pieces, I was asked to design and build a table with more modern styling. I started the design process by evaluating the constraints and developing some ideas in my sketchbook before moving on to a more refined design in SKetchup. You can take a look at the latest post on my blog for more details. Thanks for reading!
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