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Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'tutorial'

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View mpounders's profile

"Methods to My Madness: Designing and Carving a Cane" #3: Shaping the handle

11-11-2010 05:53 PM by mpounders | 10 comments »

It is usually easier to drill any holes needed in the handle before you actually start shaping it. I just clamp it up and use the drill press to drill my holes…. the one in the shaft is usually drilled with a cordless drill. I like to use a 5/16 or larger threaded rod to join the handles to the shaft. Some people prefer wooden tenons and use it as part of the design with an exposed wedged tenon. You do have to carve or shape that tenon on the shaft unless you use a wooden dowel. I pref...

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View rivergirl's profile

SPOON, SCOOP, COFFEE or otherwise CLUB/Challenge

11-11-2010 03:46 PM by rivergirl | 50 comments »

HEAR YE, HEAR YE!! Yes, Virginia we now have definitive proof that cavemen did enjoy scooping coffee! In fact cromagnun man (and woman) were the precursor to modern day Starbucks. In response to my recent posting of a neanderthal period coffee scoop, that was presented alongside a lovely model crafted by my L/J friend Jerry W, it was suggested that we begin an archelogical study, a challenge or showcase if you will of scoops and spoons. Because it was my shamelessly (or was it shamefacedl...

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View mpounders's profile

"Methods to My Madness: Designing and Carving a Cane" #2: Handle Designs

11-10-2010 05:47 AM by mpounders | 4 comments »

So the shaft portion of the cane has been selected. The over all height of the cane will be measured from the highest part of the handle to the tip of the shaft, so it is important to include all of these elements when sizing the cane, always remembering that is easier to cut the cane shorter than it is to make it longer. A normal measurement used for canes is typically from the floor to the bend of a person’s wrist. I like my canes a little taller and usually add 2-3 inches to the meas...

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View Bob Simmons's profile

Band Saw Rip Fence made in the Shop

11-10-2010 12:21 AM by Bob Simmons | 5 comments »

“Necessity is the Mother of Invention” Plato….Ancient Greek Philosopher…(428 BC-348 BC) The band saw rip fence is an invaluable saw accessory that is easy to build and provides for the safe operation when ripping low profile material. This at certain times cannot be provided by the manufacturer’s band saw fence. Obviously, when working at the tool the woodworker wants to limit the exposure of the band saw blade for reasons of safety. The workshop made band...

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View swirlsandburls's profile

Stone Inlay - a tutorial for the "Birches" #1: Getting Started

11-08-2010 02:09 AM by swirlsandburls | 6 comments »

The raw Hickory blank was one I purchased a few years ago, which was wax-dipped and about 11” in dia. by 2” thick. It was completely dry when I started. I mounted the blank from what will be the front with a faceplate ring and 6 screws. I think I used a 100 mm ring. After truing up the blank, I cut the dovetail into the back for the chuck jaws to fit into. By the way, once I mount the piece into the chuck and start working on the front, it never leaves the chuck until the pi...

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View degoose's profile

Chess board. #3: Making the board..

11-07-2010 10:28 PM by degoose | 6 comments »

From yesterdays post you know that I have a new friend.. he makes chess pieces… and I am making a chess board for him… it has to be larger than the standard international size.. which is 45 mm [1 3/4 inches] per side of each square… This new board is made from Queensland Maple [flindersia brayleyana] and Silver Ash [flindersia shottiana].. and the squares have been beefed up to 70 mm [2 3/4 inches.] First step .. rip and dress to size… I am actually making two ...

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View Bob #2's profile

Using the Dadowiz for sturdy shelves

11-07-2010 05:18 PM by Bob #2 | 7 comments »

One of the most difficult operations in my shop has been lining up dadoes consistently through two boards.The most,common operation for this is to make book shelves that must bear considerable weight without warping.The example shown here shows how I would go about ensuring my accuracy and controlling the depth of cut using a device called Dadowiz. for more information on this technique please see my bloghere:http://mywoodadventures.blogspot.com/2010/11/dowelmax-for-routered-dados.html

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View degoose's profile

Asian Style Box... #2: Inside...

11-05-2010 10:55 AM by degoose | 14 comments »

Today I made the inserts for the Teaser Box… Forrest Green felt over plywood…. Spray adhesive from the craft shop.. Looks cool hey… And then just slide them into the box… Very smooth… More tomorrow.

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View Bob Simmons's profile

Wolf's Tooth Banding...a Two for One

11-02-2010 09:03 PM by Bob Simmons | 3 comments »

“It’s the repetition of affirmations that leads to belief. And once that belief becomes a deep conviction, things begin to happen.” .....Muhammad Ali, Heavyweight boxing champ…1942 - One of the benefits of creating “Wolf’s Tooth” wood inlay bandings is that you actually get two bandings for the effort of one. What do I mean by this? When the initial cuts from the laminated stock are made on the table saw using the dedicated miter saw we flip th...

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View WoodMosaics's profile

Making a Tumbling Block Cribbage Board

11-01-2010 10:44 PM by WoodMosaics | 22 comments »

I will start this blog the same way I started the one on making a Lazy Susan. Now before I get started on this little demonstration of how I do it, let me caution you on a couple things. IF you try anything like this, take the plate that your saw blade comes up through and close that hole completely up with a thin piece of wood. Make sure it is even with the top, with no gaps and no lips to catch the pieces. You want it smooth. Then with a “Hollow ground plywood blade” come up from the bot...

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