Can anyone tell me how to get a good staining on a commercially available wood putty like Elmers? Several years ago I stopped using and substituted a glue and sawdust mixture on any projects where the repair would show and appearance mattered. Appearance almost always matters on my project, if only to me. I recently found myself using the commercially made putty while refinishing a floor and as normal, it stood out and would not accept enough color to allow for a match. I am not happy...
I cannot take full credit for this, as this is an upgrade I’ve made to my old drill press table with an idea I’ve seen on Woodscrap’s workshop page. My original table was just 3/4” birch plywood, which was too thin, and when I installed the t-tracks in it, the slot I routed left the plywood useless as there wasnt enough material left to keep it sturdy, and not enough material for the screws to hold into. The new table is 3/4” birch ply laminated with hardboard...
Overview: If you are going to make boxes there is no substitute for good band clamps. They pull all eight joint cuts together and tend to average out any cuts that are slightly off. I use two clamps on each box. They are expensive to buy, but cheap if you make your own. When in use, they look like this. These are really cranked down to pull all the joints tight. (A big thanks to Derrick who patiently helped me picture each step in this process.) Hint: To make this a quick read j...
I decided it was high time I quit clamping a piece of wood to my bandsaw table whenever I needed a fence, and upgraded to something more easily adjustable. Based on a design for a drill press fence in a recent Woodsmith Small Shops book, I came up with this cleat style fence. I used 2×4’s for the front and back rails, putting the 45 degree angle on them with my table saw. I bolted them to the existing threads on my bandsaw’s fence. The fence is a piece of cherry, and t...
Thanks for joining us for the third installment of “Intarsia Basics” and this is where it starts to get really fun. Cutting out the pattern is one of the best parts of doing this kind of art. It takes a little practice to get used to using your saw. You can look up some practice patterns or just make some zig zags, loop the loops, straight lines, gentle curves, and circles on a piece of paper and glue to a practice board. Cut out some of these and you will start getting used to the “feel ...
my ‘did it my way board’ http://lumberjocks.com/projects/42141 was done like thisthe tangents are the square of the circlethe thickness of the stock is that height of the squarethe width of the stock is the square and the two wingsof the circle combined(for my 1 1/4” bits it was 1”x1 1/2”).cut and mill the stockrun the round edges firstso the flat is still good for the coves later.the fence and the cutter tangent want to be exactso there is no loss in w...
Hey LJ! So a few weeks back I posted some mid-project photoes of how my bandsaw build was going and although it is not entirley finished and still needs little extras like a coat of paint, a stand and a fence I can now show you the fully working and (built bandsaw). Heres a quick video showing the build process… Enjoy! Its been a great project and I hope to soon post another video showing it in all of it glory.
I was asked by at least a dozen people over the last few months how I do my portraits. Particularly, how I get up to the point of actually putting blade to wood. In other words…… the Prep Work. I thought I would make Part 1 of my “Portrait Scrollsawing in a NutShell Blog” cover just that topic – getting everything ready to actually start sawing. The only “prep work” part I won’t cover in this section is designing the pattern itself – that will be at LEAST one, if not multiple future b...
Hi, I’ve seen these questions raised on several threads, and for many years didn’t know the answer to these myself. I just stumbled upon the “answers” which reminded me of the questions, so I figured I’d post it here for anyone that might be able to use it. I stumbled upon these on Lee-Valley website which is a golden fountain of knowledge if you know how to find it (some of their articles and tips are not visible, nor easy to come upon unless you stumble upon...
Found out the trex clamps I talked about in my last version (http://lumberjocks.com/TZH/blog/24588) weren’t strong enough to withstand the pressure exerted by the bolt going through, plus didn’t hold the sled rigidly enough (too much diagonal movement). So, back to the drawing board. Figured a clamp should function like a clamp no matter what the design is, so I used 2×4’s for the stationary clamp (first photo) and 2×2’s (oak – second photo) for the mov...
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