Threaded insert jig – HOW TO MAKEHow to get the dam thing straight in!Ok, not a big problem, but a problem! Here are the challange. Idea! A jig so I can control the angel is 90 degree.Solution a pice of scrap wood, some thread in a ‘nice’ size, and ofcourse the same thread as the inserts inside.Draw up a hole that fits, the hight of the threathet insert and some extra for a nut. Some cutting at the tablesaw. Some more cutting, this could be done with a chiselR...
Updated 1/15/12 At this point we should have an assembled box, with corner splines, a recess cut into the body for the lid to set down into 3/8”, and a recess for the medallion cut into the lid that is also 3/8” deep, and the medallion cut to fit.DO NOT glue in the medallion yet! Next thing is to make the handle.I like to attach the handle by cutting a mortise in both the handle and the edge of the lid and slipping in a thin strip of wood, aka a spline. The spline is a scrap...
I got a few questions about the zero-clearance inserts I made for my bosch table saw, so I figured I’d post the procedure here as to how I made those. The basic Idea is to take the factory inserts and use that as a template for the router. but alas, the factory insert is just too thin at some points to be able to follow it with a trim router bit, so to tackle this issue I made an initial template out of 1/2” plywood. This first template took a bit more patience and care so that...
I recently finished working on a cutting algorithm app for the iPad and iPhone called Smart Cutter, and wanted to share the app with every one hoping get some feedback from carpenters and wood workers. Smart Cutter finds the maximum number of small pieces cut from a larger sheet of paper with minimum scrap. It employs a state of the art algorithm to generate the maximum number of small pieces cut from a larger sheet of paper, wood, cloth or any other material, with minimum waste. Whether y...
Work(shop) in Progress #7: New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511
So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due! Actually I was planning on working my the Bead Box, but wanted to fine tune the table saw, and ‘get it done’ first, and so, the plan was to use the 5/8” phenolic (not phenolic plywood) panel that I got (I got a 1-3/8” phenolic panel to use as a router table top, and while at it, picked up some ‘lighter’ thinner panels as well, for inserts, plates, etc). I figured – I already have it, and might as wel...
janice asked for help making cab doors , http://lumberjocks.com/projects/26191 . this is by way of showing how i make cab doors my way .i don’t do raised panels , unless the customer orders them to match or just ‘cause they like that style .i allways tell them that unless they really want to spend more money ,like twice as much for the panel wood ,and all the time it takes to do ( i am worth something ! ) .so i make the rails and stiles straight forward on the table saw , with ...
my ‘did it my way board’ http://lumberjocks.com/projects/42141 was done like thisthe tangents are the square of the circlethe thickness of the stock is that height of the squarethe width of the stock is the square and the two wingsof the circle combined(for my 1 1/4” bits it was 1”x1 1/2”).cut and mill the stockrun the round edges firstso the flat is still good for the coves later.the fence and the cutter tangent want to be exactso there is no loss in w...
Can anyone tell me how to get a good staining on a commercially available wood putty like Elmers? Several years ago I stopped using and substituted a glue and sawdust mixture on any projects where the repair would show and appearance mattered. Appearance almost always matters on my project, if only to me. I recently found myself using the commercially made putty while refinishing a floor and as normal, it stood out and would not accept enough color to allow for a match. I am not happy...
Found out the trex clamps I talked about in my last version (http://lumberjocks.com/TZH/blog/24588) weren’t strong enough to withstand the pressure exerted by the bolt going through, plus didn’t hold the sled rigidly enough (too much diagonal movement). So, back to the drawing board. Figured a clamp should function like a clamp no matter what the design is, so I used 2×4’s for the stationary clamp (first photo) and 2×2’s (oak – second photo) for the mov...
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