Since I have installed the Delta T2 fence on my Craftsman tablesaw, I have had a few people asking how I installed it, especially, how I installed the fence so that it would zero properly. For those that are thinking about installing this fence on a craftsman, you WILL have to drill new holes in the rails. You can use one of the existing holes, but you will not be able to ‘0’ the fence. I wish that I had taken pictures of each step to further clarify the information listed be...
Updated 1/15/12 Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.I typically make the medallion about 1” to 1.5” smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion. We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do ...
I mentioned in one of my project post where I pictured a small hand plane that I made in my shop that I also make the irons and sharpening stones. I of course make the wood too, since I have a sawmill. Others showed interest in more details, so here they are. I did not know where to start. I am starting with a honing stone I “made”. It did not work out exactly as planned. It is a very good stone and I will use it for honing razors personally and in my business (I run a small sh...
I ordered a 0.3 micron replacement filter from Wynn Environmental to replace my Jet DC1100 30 micron bag. Originally I was going to make a simple review for people to benefit from my experience with the new filter I got… but since it had gotten a bit more complicated, I figured this is blog-worthy, and the ‘regular’ review will follow once I experience more the performance of the filter. Disclaimer: I have had nothing but great experience from Wynn Environmental, from ...
Work(shop) in Progress #7: New Table Saw: Phenolic Zero Clearance Inserts and Fence Faces for Ridgid R4511
So, New Saw, New Zero Clearance Inserts are due! Actually I was planning on working my the Bead Box, but wanted to fine tune the table saw, and ‘get it done’ first, and so, the plan was to use the 5/8” phenolic (not phenolic plywood) panel that I got (I got a 1-3/8” phenolic panel to use as a router table top, and while at it, picked up some ‘lighter’ thinner panels as well, for inserts, plates, etc). I figured – I already have it, and might as wel...
Updated 1/15/12 Regarding wood movement:Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.This is what works for me. I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and l...
Overview: In the last blog I detailed how to separate the top from the box and how to start with a long piano hinge then size, cut, polish, round, crimp, smooth, and paint the hinge so it will fit any size of box. In this chapter I will explain how to install a piano hinge in a box. We will go through how to mortise, fit and fasten the hinge. The essential tools are: router table, small try square, vix bit, drill and impact driver. If all goes well, it should look like this when you ar...
Updated 1/16/12 This is where you need to decide how you want to open your box. I mentioned at the outset about some of the different boxes I have made and how they hinge differently from one another. All are good, but you may have a preference in style or it may be your ability that decides for you. The pin hinge is what we will mainly be focusing on and was used on this box. Chapter 10 will discuss this style. The Deco box uses a standard brass butt hinge with a stop stra...
Updated 1/15/12 At this point we should have an assembled box, with corner splines, a recess cut into the body for the lid to set down into 3/8”, and a recess for the medallion cut into the lid that is also 3/8” deep, and the medallion cut to fit.DO NOT glue in the medallion yet! Next thing is to make the handle.I like to attach the handle by cutting a mortise in both the handle and the edge of the lid and slipping in a thin strip of wood, aka a spline. The spline is a scrap...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1598 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 96 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1623 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 279 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- shipwright - 219 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 198 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 187 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 176 entries