This will be my first post on lumberjocks so I thought I would start with something simple. I’m in the process of gearing up to make a set of dining chairs and was looking for a way to secure work to the top of my bench. I drilled some thru holes in the top of my bench that will allow the clamps to be oriented towards the front or towards the side. I’ve seen bar and pipe clamps used this way but I don’t think I’ve seen handscrew clamps used this way. The bottom jaw ...
Maybe I’m just the rebellious type, but when a friend told me it is not possible to steam bend kiln dried lumber, I just had to try. My plan was to create a wooden handle that had three tight bends in it. [ Continue Reading....] to see how I got it to bend.
So to start with. The miter slots on my saw were shallow from routing the table top flat. I finally decided last night to setup my incra 1000hd for this saw, but in order to do that, I needed to rout the right slot deeper. Ill get around to the left eventually, but the right slot will pretty much be the incra’s new home. I used the same 10$ ryobi router and HF router speed control I used on the top, and just used the fence as a guide. I started with a 1/4” straight bit an...
What are the differences between stains and dyes? Very simply put: With stains, the pigment tends to remain on the surface of the wood and lodge in the pores, while dyes penetrate deeply and color the wood from within. Dyes Dyes are colorants that are usually mixed in a carrier vehicle (solvents) such as mineral spirits, water or alcohol. The dyes used in woodworking are characterized as transparent, as they bring about color changes in wood without obscuring the figure. The molecula...
A while back, I put together a set of links of random finishing topics which I posted in my blog, called Finishing Tips #5: Finishing tips #5. One of the links listed coved the topic of Chemical-Ebonizing as I saw an interest from some concerning the procedure, so this is the time to single out that process. This process does not use dye, ink or paint, and can be carried out quite easily. As a matter of formality follow proper safety precautions such as wearing safety glasses, hand prot...
Finishes and their Compatibility Almost any finishing product can be applied over any other as long as the “other finish” is dry and the product you’re brushing doesn’t dissolve and smudge the existing. For example: Let’s for arguments sake you are not using spray equipment and that you have made up and applied a water based PVA blotch controller as describe in my previous article Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat 1 to a cherry surface. You then apply a water-soluble dye for col...
I recently discovered on YouTube these bits that are called birds mouth router bits. They make 6,8,12 sided boxes by cutting a notch of a certain angle in the board down its length. Once routed, the board is cut to length dependent on the shapes diameter. The interlock makes glueing and clamping incredibly easy. I got a set of three for $40
Wash Coat #2: Waterborne Finish Coatings As previously mentioned in Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat #1, most any standard finish can be used as a wash coat. These are Lacquer (both waterborne and solvent type/nitrocellulose), polyurethane (both waterborne and oil based), Oil-based Varnish, and Shellac. The above being said, lets talk Waterbourne. It really makes no difference which you use waterborne lacquer, waterborne shellac or waterborne polyurethane since they all are simply...
With those and of year year festivities, I still have been able to advance a bit this project, between making macarons with my wife for the end of the year gifts for our friends And also, after a snow fall due to a cold front coming from Canada, a little bit of playing in the snow in the mountains with my wife, like any San Diegan. I finished to put together the marquetry panels. The bone where finally dyed I inserted those last pieces in the top and sides ...
Drawing a line, rough-sawing and sanding a curve wasn’t good enough, and I really wanted to make a good curve with a nice square edge. Behold, the complex router template contraption that worked perfect. Surely there was an easier way to go about this; if you have ideas about alternatives, let me know in the comments! These screws were to prevent flexing. Before routing, I added a few dabs of hot glue to the backside of the curved strip, which I think made the screws poi...
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