Many times as furniture makers, we will put a finish on the underside of a tabletop to prevent it from warping or cupping. The theory being, if you put the same finish on the top as you do the bottom the moisture transfer will be equalized on all sides, helping to prevent wood movement. Regardless whether or not this theory is true, there are other reasons to finish the bottom of your tabletop.Continue reading on my blog to see the real reason why I finish the bottom of my tables.
Hello every one. Today I have 3 videos that I would like to share with you. They demonstrate how to create fluted moldings in eCabinets that will dynamically adjust their size when you change the cabinet. If you have ever used fluted moldings on your cabinets then you probably created a display board or display panel or even a display cube. Then applied them to the cabinet. This method although a bit more involved will make this a lot easier in the long run. So be sure to watch all 3 and let...
Hello everyone Welcome to my Blog. I am a complete newbie to this blog thing so any tips and suggestions are welcome. I would like to invite you to my YouTube Channel eCabinets Tips and Tricks. I started this channel a few months ago to help my coworkers and recently decided to make it a public channel. I was looking around on different forums to find other eCabinet users. When I did a search on this forum I came across several post about this program. The biggest thing that I saw about eC...
About a year ago, when I finally decided a hammer and chisel wasn’t enough to remodel the house, I drove on down to our local Lowe’s and plopped down my hard-earned (credit card) money on the counter for a Skilsaw model 3410-02 Contractor Table Saw. I forget the amount of damage done at the time—it can be considered a foregone conclusion that this was the beginning of a huge tab to come—but while it was a lot of bananas for me for the cheapest of the table saws offered...
This is the box after two more days exposure, for six days total. It isn’t much darker than it was after four days, so I’m going to call the experiment over. I’d like for it to be a bit darker, but at least I got the contrast I wanted with the basswood lid and pins. Even the basswood took on a bit warmer shade. This is why I put the lid in to fume with the sides. I thought that the pins might darken, and I wanted them to match the lid. Here is the box before fuming:One...
The box hasn’t darkened appreciably over the past two days, so I put in fresh ammonia in a slightly bigger saucer to give it more surface area. Here’s a funny thing. It felt like the box was damp to the touch. The lid just lies in a rabbet in the sides, and the wood had swollen so much that it was jammed in tight! It really has been picking up moisture. I don’t know if this is due to the fuming reaction, or if it is just a consequence of having the box suspended ove...
Prestige design: CHECK OUT OUR FACEBOOK AND SHOW SOME Support… www.facebook.com/prestigedesign I always get a question before someone puts an order in “Can you really design what is in my mind?” My answer is YES. Then i prove it….I ask them key questions to help me understand what they want. Am i always right….NObut if i am not correct on what they want, they change their mind to the design i made The next question before i build it “how did ...
I have some small boxes with oak sides that I made, and I wanted to fume them to contrast with the basswood lids and pins. I placed a box over a saucer with some regular household ammonia. I keep a cake container over the setup to contain the fumes.The box before fuming.Here is the setup and the box after one day. Here it is after 48 hours. I’ll keep going until it reaches the desired shade.
I have this Chouna, it was all black/brown and after about a day in citric acid and a lot of scrubbing every hour, I can now see the steel in some places, It also revealed a stamp and some faint etching that became stronger with time. I have also had the blades from my two Nagadai-ganna in citric acid to remove ages of rust.Anyone know anything about this stamp? The other one still in the acid…This one has stamps on the front and the back, both have stamps on the laminated chip br...
So, I have these saws. These are old, how old, I don’t know but they are handmade, most likely industrially handmade. They have this nice engraved markings on them, not like the modern stamps, more like hand stitched engravings. You can also see some marks where the steel was welded to make the saw blade. So, how to get some old, dirty, rusty, dull saws in working order? First step was a nice bath of citric acid, this removed most of the dirt and rust. I don’t have any...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1461 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 93 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1485 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 394 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- mafe - 236 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- shipwright - 198 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 197 entries
- Rustic - 186 entries
- stefang - 185 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 176 entries
- PurpLev - 163 entries