I like how the cherry hardwood is reacting to the coats of Danish Oil I have applied on top of the three coats of Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO). I will check tomorrow if this table needs a fourth coat of Danish Oil. So far what I have applied looks great. If anything else is required it will be a good buffing of Briwax furniture wax.
If I was to start over with selecting the finish coats for this table, I would not use Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO). I do believe that it has gone on okay. I am satisfied that the BLO has done what it can. However, the blotchiness on the table top does bother me. I believe as the cherry ages that the blotchiness will dissipate, if not disappear in time. However, I know there is not a guarantee about that result. My options from here are (1) continue to apply more BLO, (2) spray some Shella...
Simply the weather is turning colder and its rainy. In order to enhance the dry time, I brought the trestle table in doors to an empty bedroom. I will store it here so the oil finish will dry quicker than it would in the woodshop. I will give this table a few weeks to dry before I start to apply paste wax and buff it.
I wiped each part. I then fastened the battens by aligning them to the knife marks I had made before applying the BLO finish. Three #6 – 1 inch flathead screws for each batten. I also decided to add another thin coat of BLO. I may wait another 48 hours before assembling the table.
I decided to test a few finishes in order to determine which I will apply to this trestle table. I gathered some small cherry sample. I made a trip to my local big box store for a can of Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) as well as a gallon can of denatured alcohol and an additional can of natural Watco Danish Oil. These new additions go along with my Zinsser Shellac Seal Coat sanding sealer. My Annie picked the BLO for use on this table. She liked the darker finish as well as how it highlighte...
I started working in my shop thinking that I would apply my first coat of finish on this trestle table today, but I did not get that far. I decided to sand this table top instead of hand planing it further. I went through the several grits starting at 80, then the following in this order 120, 150, 180 and then 220. To remove the dust from each part I used mineral spirits with a paper towel. These pictures were taken following cleaning with that wet paper towel. I am still undecided...
Today I routed the mortises that will the slots that the buttons will fit in order to hold or fasten the table top to the leg assemblies. I used my brass bars to set the depth of my upcut router bit for the button slots I was about to route. My buttons will fit into these routed slots. They hold my table top to the leg assemblies. The buttons with the slots will allow for expansion and contraction with changes in humidity of the seasons.+ I laid out the battens and the legs on the t...
I went back into my shop after dinner this evening so I could drill pre-drill holes in the three battens that will fasten down on the underside of my table top. They will be there to hold the board panels that I glued and clamped together so the table remains flat. I also ripped a cherry 3/4” by 3/4” piece that I bought at Home Depot last night. I plan to make my own 1/4” cherry dowels with it. I have some red oak 1/4” dowels as backup in case my handmade dowels do...
I resharpened my bench planes and then resumed planing the cherry table top. having sharp blades helped me achieve a great surface for this top. I competed the work today by taking a damp towel and wiping both surfaces; especially where I had two dents or rough spots in the wood. Tomorrow I will replane the raised grain or use a card scraper or even a sanding black to knock down the raised grain.
I have used my #6 and then my #4 smoother to get this point. I am not certain if I continue it will get better. Can you see the valleys? Tomorrow I will resharpen my blades and continue with planing this top’s surface, but I am wondering if I should use my card scraper or go to sanding. Any suggestions?
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