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Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'torsion box'

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Floating Serpentine Shelf #8: Final Assembly and Installation

07-15-2017 02:45 PM by Ron Stewart | 2 comments »

Initially, I thought I could assemble the entire shelf in the garage, and that my wife and I could move it into the study. As my wife is happy to tease me, what in the world was I thinking? Weight-wise, it wouldn’t have been a problem. Size-wise, it’s theoretically possible, but totally impractical. We’d have dinged the frame of every door and cased opening along the path. So I did the final assembly in the study. Here’s the finished back panel with the shelf alignm...

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Floating Serpentine Shelf #7: Applying the Finish

07-14-2017 07:44 PM by Ron Stewart | 0 comments »

Unlike most projects, finishing was by far the easiest part of this one. I just sanded everything to 280 grit and, in preparation, used every portable flat surface at my disposal to fill up half the garage. Then I applied three “coats” of Watco Natural Danish Oil over several days. I wet-sanded the second coat with 600 grit paper to try to fill in any corner gaps. The RevolutionPly didn’t absorb as much oil as most other wood (or plywood). I think that’s b...

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Floating Serpentine Shelf #6: Overall Structure (Odds and Ends)

07-14-2017 07:31 PM by Ron Stewart | 0 comments »

The overall shelf’s structure comprises several elements: A back panel that is a one-sided torsion box. Individual shelves that are torsion boxes and which are attached to the back panel with 3/4” dowels and numerous #14 wood screws. Short sides, also torsion boxes, that connect pairs of individual shelves with 3/8” dowels and glue. French cleats integrated into the back panel to hang the shelf on the wall. I had to make provisions for this structure throughout...

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Floating Serpentine Shelf #5: Completing the Torsion Boxes

07-14-2017 06:51 PM by Ron Stewart | 0 comments »

I had the assembled shelf/side torsion box skeletons and beveled skins. All that was left was gluing the skins to the skeletons, hopefully without leaving many gaping corner gaps. My biggest worry was keeping the skins from sliding around on the wet glue. To help with that, I used a trick I had read about somewhere, but never actually used. I hammered a few brads into the skeleton. Then I snipped off the heads with side cutters, leaving short stubs. To align each skin, I pres...

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Floating Serpentine Shelf #4: Cutting the Torsion Box Skins

07-14-2017 06:08 PM by Ron Stewart | 0 comments »

My original design for the individual shelves would have been significantly easier to build than the ones I actually built. I had planned to build the outer torsion box frames from hardwood, mitered at the front corners, with a rabbet in which top and bottom skins would sit. My miter saw would have made quick work of the mitered corners. Those plans fell apart after I shopped for lumber and plywood. I found some 1/4” birch plywood that looked pretty good (apart from being rotary ...

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Floating Serpentine Shelf #3: Building the Torsion Box Skeletons

07-13-2017 08:52 PM by Ron Stewart | 0 comments »

(I actually cut and beveled the edges of the thin plywood skins first, then sized the skeleton parts to match, but I’ll describe the work in reverse order because it seems more natural.) Aside from wrestling with half sheets of 3/4” birch plywood (I had Lowe’s cut the sheet in half lengthwise so I could fit it into my Honda Element), cutting the torsion box skeleton parts was straightforward. All of them (aside from the ones in the back panel) are the same width, so I sta...

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Floating Serpentine Shelf #2: Torsion Box Design

07-13-2017 08:23 PM by Ron Stewart | 0 comments »

In my final design, each individual shelf and vertical side is a narrow torsion box (1 3/4” thick) with a skeleton made of 3/4” thick plywood spines and ribs and skins of 5mm (roughly 3/16”) thick plywood. The back panel is constructed similarly, with wider structural parts. My plan was to attach each individual shelf to the back panel with a pair of 3/4” dowels and multiple #14 wood screws and to attach each side to its surrounding shelves with 3/8” d...

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YAWB - Yet Another Workbench (Or My Take on the Ultimate Tool Stand) #4: Carcass Finish & First (Unofficial) Use

04-01-2016 11:03 PM by mrhammerstein | 0 comments »

After making the torsion box and carcass I wanted to protect the bench a little. I rubbed in some tung oil finish (two coats I think) and added a coat of furniture wax. For garage use, I felt that would be fine. No need to coat where it won’t be exposed. I haven’t built the riser blocks (whatever they’re called). It brought a little shine to the workbench. My sanding got the best of me and a sanded through the top birch veneer at a lot of the corners, but I’m no...

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YAWB - Yet Another Workbench (Or My Take on the Ultimate Tool Stand) #3: Carcass

04-01-2016 08:40 PM by mrhammerstein | 0 comments »

Long break, but I do have some updates thankfully. So here’s what I’ll be building in this part. Front Back After the torsion box, it was time to start the carcass. As mentioned before, I went with plywood over MDF out of preference and aesthetics. There isn’t great plywood to be had where I live, but I found a respectable lumber yard with cheaper (and better) plywood than the big box stores. It’s 11-ply, but still has some voids. It’s a good compromi...

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YAWB - Yet Another Workbench (Or My Take on the Ultimate Tool Stand) #2: Torsion Box

08-11-2015 07:57 PM by mrhammerstein | 0 comments »

The original plans said to build this after building the carcass, but I am not one to follow every direction. So it was up first. Design was completed and away I go. Even though I decided to make the UTS out of plywood, I made the torsion box out of MDF to take advantage of the its dead-flatness. I shrank the dimensions a bit so the plywood face would be flush with the rest of the carcass. I also moved around the rails so the casters would line up with the hardwood inside supports. ...

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