The topic of tool chests has been quite polarizing on lumberjocks.com. The benefits, some would argue, are that they protect the tools, efficiently store them, cause one to think about what tools are absolutely necessary (i.e., getting back to the basics), and last of all, provide the woodworker with somewhere to sit. Others see tool chests as antiquated storage devices that were theft deterrents in their age and provided some mobility to those who worked on job sites, rather in their own sho...
This is where we left off last time—- a basic carcass completed but no tools inside it yet. On a side note, do you prefer to spell it carcass or carcase? I’ve seen it both ways. So now comes the fun part: figuring out how I’m going to fit all these tools into the upper section of tool chest. At this point, I’m not really concerned with my larger hand saws, my specialty planes, mallets etc., but most of the smaller hand tools. It seems like a lot of tools, but if...
My goal on the Dutch tool chest was to incorporate a space for two larger saws in the design. Like Chris Schwarz’s Dutch tool chests, I was determined to locate the saws on the lid, yet what I didn’t like about his design was that it required ample space on both sides of the tool chest to pull the saws out. I usually don’t have much space on either side. Here’s his design (and notice that you can’t pull that bottom saw out without running it into that workbench o...
Hello. So at this point the shell parts are all dimensioned and ready for joinery. So I began by marking each board to orient them: front, back, left, right. Then I set my marking gauge to the thickness of the shell parts, then scribed with that setting across each board’s end (make sure to scribe the edges of the tail board, but not on the pin board). Next I set my dividers to lay out the tail spacing. After a few tries I got them set to produce 12 tails with just a ha...
Right Click to DownloadRight Click to Download in HDSubscription Options This one is all about assembly! I receive a lot of requests to include more details on my assembly process. This is a detail that many articles, videos, and DVDs tend to leave out, so hopefully this helps to fill some gaps. Keep in mind that every project will require a different glueup and clamping strategy, and this is just one way to get the job done. Hopefully it will give you some tips and tricks that you can pu...
Hello. When I left off the chest was built and ready for the tool storage inside. After giving tool storage some thought I decided on having 3 sliding tills, rear moulding plane storage, front saw till, and tool rolls hanging on the front wall. Nothing really new, but I think my tool roll idea is. When trying to come up with ways to store drill bits and/or chisels on the front wall of my chest I came up with an idea involving canvas tool rolls. What I have is nails driving into t...
Hello. Since my last entry I have made the tongue and groove joints for the bottom, but since I have yet to get the nails to attach the bottom, I will post about the bottom later. I have made the lid for the chest though. A friend had let me borrow his mortise chisels so I could make the mortises for the lid joinery. So once I planed the rails and stiles to size I began laying out for the joinery. The lid for the chest is a special kind of frame and panel where the panel itself has a gr...
I came across this old tool chest on an auction site and thought I would share. It reminds me of a mini-Studley chest. I would imagine the original owner was a very talented individual. . . . . . . . .. .. .. .
Hello. With the lid finished, bottom in place and skirts glued on I can begin installing the hinges and the lock. All the hardware (excluding casters and lid chain) were bought from http://www.horton-brasses.com/ which is where Chris Schwarz got his hardware as well. So first off I began by installing the hinges. I placed the lid on the chest and got it into position and marked one side of each hinge on both the lid and top edge of the chest. Then I used the hinge itself to mark ...
I wanted to make the lid a breadboard to keep it nice and flat. I started with two boards of eastern white pine boards which I glued together, then added a stub tenons on each side. And here are the end pieces with the mortises already in place. I cut the mortises on my TS. Glued together: I planed the whole thing flat then squared it up. To square it up, I planed down the protruding breadboard end pieces, then ran the opposite side through the TS. I drilled a 3/8&...
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