Hello. Since my last entry I have made the tongue and groove joints for the bottom, but since I have yet to get the nails to attach the bottom, I will post about the bottom later. I have made the lid for the chest though. A friend had let me borrow his mortise chisels so I could make the mortises for the lid joinery. So once I planed the rails and stiles to size I began laying out for the joinery. The lid for the chest is a special kind of frame and panel where the panel itself has a gr...
Hello. So at this point the shell parts are all dimensioned and ready for joinery. So I began by marking each board to orient them: front, back, left, right. Then I set my marking gauge to the thickness of the shell parts, then scribed with that setting across each board’s end (make sure to scribe the edges of the tail board, but not on the pin board). Next I set my dividers to lay out the tail spacing. After a few tries I got them set to produce 12 tails with just a ha...
Hello. In the last post I left off with the shell sides glued up and flat on one face. Yesterday and today I had some time to finish sizing those parts. I started off by thicknessing. If you are not a wood worker that has become comfortable with hand planing, then you will regret it with this project. The only way for most of us to flatten and thickness a board about 2’ wide is with hand planes. So if you do not have the knowledge or skills yet to dimension lumber by hand, this pr...
Hello. I happened to have little work today, so I had time to do some work on the tool chest. A few weeks ago I had skip planed all the parts for the shell, and some of the oak. Skip planing is simply using a heavy set plane to remove the twist and warpage in a board. Thats all. You do not use a try plane or smoother at this point. By skip planing the lumber before hand, the lumber has a second chance to warp if it has to, since there was fresh wood removed from both faces. Now a...
Its kind of a jump from my last post, and I had tons of other pics of the construction. But the computer with all those pics died. So these new ones are what I have left. THe rest of the build was pretty staightforward. I dovetailed a narrow skirt around the lid. Then used a chisel and router plane to make the mortises for the hinges. Then with the lid on, I nailed in drawer runners, and made three drawers to fit. For drawer pulls I got some steel rings and cotter pins from a big box store, p...
I finally finished dovetailing the last of the drawers. The next step was to sand the sides until they would slide easily into the tool chest (I made them a little too large to facilitate the fitting process). After getting all six little drawers to fit without runners (crowning the sides a bit with the orbital sander, unfortunately, but I’ll flatten them better later on), I screwed their drawer runners in place: I had applied one coat of finish to the dados and backs of the ru...
I came across this old tool chest on an auction site and thought I would share. It reminds me of a mini-Studley chest. I would imagine the original owner was a very talented individual. . . . . . . . .. .. .. .
Hello. I have decided to start work on my new chest tool. I am not sure when I will get around to starting the build, but I have got the design and materials ready for when it comes time to begin. I bought the book by Chris Schwarz “The Anarchist’s Tool Chest” back in the early parts of summer http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67610&cat=1,46096,46109. I have always enjoyed reading his blog and when my friend told me about the premise of the book I though...
I finally managed to finish the last part of the carcass assembly by gluing in the vertical divider. It’s looking pretty awesome with everything together (except for the cheap pine plywood, which I’ll cover with some material after finishing): This weekend, I’ve been spending my time flattening and cutting up a ridiculously twisted and bowed elm board: This will become the drawer sides. After spending hours and hours with a combination of hand planes, the joi...
After seeing shipwright’s nifty wooden box hinge technique , I knew I had to try it myself. I’m not sure if it’s been attempted on this large a scale, but I’m happy with how it came out. The only change I made to the original technique was putting the grooves on the face of the board instead of the edge, that way the somewhat-unsightly filled groove would be hidden from view on the outside of the tool chest. Here is the initial setup with the grooves still open: ...
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