Posted a ‘Shop Notes’ entry some time ago to talk about a big ‘ole pine dovetailed box I bought at a local auction. Not absolutely certain it was ever a tool chest, but I won’t rule it out either. Some points to consider on the tool chest vs. plain box discussion: - There’s no evidence it ever had sliding trays or inserts. Not that they’re required, I suppose, but modern authors suggest that’s the historical norm. Maybe the builder wasn’t norm. - No mortise lock, only a ring for ...
Hello. With the lid finished, bottom in place and skirts glued on I can begin installing the hinges and the lock. All the hardware (excluding casters and lid chain) were bought from http://www.horton-brasses.com/ which is where Chris Schwarz got his hardware as well. So first off I began by installing the hinges. I placed the lid on the chest and got it into position and marked one side of each hinge on both the lid and top edge of the chest. Then I used the hinge itself to mark ...
Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I’ve ever seen – clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid. There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I’ll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would requir...
I finally managed to finish the tool chest a little over a week ago (I was on a trip this week and couldn’t post it). Here is the project page with the details: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/67437 And a photo set with more pictures: http://imgur.com/a/upQCL Thanks for following along. It has been a long journey getting this thing to completion.
Hello. With the shell and lid of the chest complete the next task on the agenda is building the skirts. The skirts are essentially moldings that protect the shell of the chest from damage and help seal the lid off from dust. Though unlike normal moldings and skirts on many other chests, the tool chest Chris describes has skirts which are dovetailed at the corners. This creates a skirt that will not open up due to seasonal humidity changes. The dovetails are also oriented so that the tails ...
Hello. Since my last entry I have made the tongue and groove joints for the bottom, but since I have yet to get the nails to attach the bottom, I will post about the bottom later. I have made the lid for the chest though. A friend had let me borrow his mortise chisels so I could make the mortises for the lid joinery. So once I planed the rails and stiles to size I began laying out for the joinery. The lid for the chest is a special kind of frame and panel where the panel itself has a gr...
Hello. So at this point the shell parts are all dimensioned and ready for joinery. So I began by marking each board to orient them: front, back, left, right. Then I set my marking gauge to the thickness of the shell parts, then scribed with that setting across each board’s end (make sure to scribe the edges of the tail board, but not on the pin board). Next I set my dividers to lay out the tail spacing. After a few tries I got them set to produce 12 tails with just a ha...
Hello. In the last post I left off with the shell sides glued up and flat on one face. Yesterday and today I had some time to finish sizing those parts. I started off by thicknessing. If you are not a wood worker that has become comfortable with hand planing, then you will regret it with this project. The only way for most of us to flatten and thickness a board about 2’ wide is with hand planes. So if you do not have the knowledge or skills yet to dimension lumber by hand, this pr...
Hello. I happened to have little work today, so I had time to do some work on the tool chest. A few weeks ago I had skip planed all the parts for the shell, and some of the oak. Skip planing is simply using a heavy set plane to remove the twist and warpage in a board. Thats all. You do not use a try plane or smoother at this point. By skip planing the lumber before hand, the lumber has a second chance to warp if it has to, since there was fresh wood removed from both faces. Now a...
Its kind of a jump from my last post, and I had tons of other pics of the construction. But the computer with all those pics died. So these new ones are what I have left. THe rest of the build was pretty staightforward. I dovetailed a narrow skirt around the lid. Then used a chisel and router plane to make the mortises for the hinges. Then with the lid on, I nailed in drawer runners, and made three drawers to fit. For drawer pulls I got some steel rings and cotter pins from a big box store, p...
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