When using a striking block to assemble joinery. Make sure to use a block that you can grip from the sides and not from the top. The below image is the “don’t” picture. This of course happened in the beginning of the below glue up…as if I needed it to be more interesting. Hope your next glue up goes well. Ryan
I need four sides of skirting for dovetailing in a way opposite the main body of the chest. As in, tails are cut into the face board of the main chest, but will get cut into the side boards of the skirt, to counteract each other and increase overall stability. I’m only able to get the bottom skirting entirely from my blue board: - Two long boards, front and back- Two short sides I want the blue and/or weathered edges to be ‘up,’ and cut edge down on these boards, a...
Earlier this year, I blogged here on LJ about building my Roubo workbench. As mentioned in that blog, prior to building the workbench, I wasn’t much into hand tools. Not because I had anything personal against them, but instead because I was always in the process of building out my power tool collection. My power tool arsenal is effectively complete at this point, and I have since mastered the basic uses and methods of each of those tools. I decided it was time to start doing more w...
Posted a ‘Shop Notes’ entry some time ago to talk about a big ‘ole pine dovetailed box I bought at a local auction. Not absolutely certain it was ever a tool chest, but I won’t rule it out either. Some points to consider on the tool chest vs. plain box discussion: - There’s no evidence it ever had sliding trays or inserts. Not that they’re required, I suppose, but modern authors suggest that’s the historical norm. Maybe the builder wasn’t norm. - No mortise lock, only a ring for ...
Hello. With the lid finished, bottom in place and skirts glued on I can begin installing the hinges and the lock. All the hardware (excluding casters and lid chain) were bought from http://www.horton-brasses.com/ which is where Chris Schwarz got his hardware as well. So first off I began by installing the hinges. I placed the lid on the chest and got it into position and marked one side of each hinge on both the lid and top edge of the chest. Then I used the hinge itself to mark ...
Bought this at Auction over the weekend, mostly to keep it out of the hands of an antique dealer. Nails at the hinges are the oldest I’ve ever seen – clinched and appear to be hand forged. Handles outstanding, also clinched. Plane tracks visible inside and out. But, no lid. There are a few round (modern) nails driven in at the corners that I’ll remove, and there are four more driven across the dovetails halfway up each corner (one visible in the pic) that would requir...
I finally managed to finish the tool chest a little over a week ago (I was on a trip this week and couldn’t post it). Here is the project page with the details: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/67437 And a photo set with more pictures: http://imgur.com/a/upQCL Thanks for following along. It has been a long journey getting this thing to completion.
Hello. With the shell and lid of the chest complete the next task on the agenda is building the skirts. The skirts are essentially moldings that protect the shell of the chest from damage and help seal the lid off from dust. Though unlike normal moldings and skirts on many other chests, the tool chest Chris describes has skirts which are dovetailed at the corners. This creates a skirt that will not open up due to seasonal humidity changes. The dovetails are also oriented so that the tails ...
Hello. Since my last entry I have made the tongue and groove joints for the bottom, but since I have yet to get the nails to attach the bottom, I will post about the bottom later. I have made the lid for the chest though. A friend had let me borrow his mortise chisels so I could make the mortises for the lid joinery. So once I planed the rails and stiles to size I began laying out for the joinery. The lid for the chest is a special kind of frame and panel where the panel itself has a gr...
Hello. So at this point the shell parts are all dimensioned and ready for joinery. So I began by marking each board to orient them: front, back, left, right. Then I set my marking gauge to the thickness of the shell parts, then scribed with that setting across each board’s end (make sure to scribe the edges of the tail board, but not on the pin board). Next I set my dividers to lay out the tail spacing. After a few tries I got them set to produce 12 tails with just a ha...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1660 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1685 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- dbhost - 400 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 281 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 229 entries
- Betsy - 225 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- stefang - 207 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 200 entries
- robscastle - 189 entries
- Rustic - 189 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 188 entries
- Chris Davis - 184 entries