LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'tongue and groove'

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View clin's profile

Spanish Cedar Gate

12-30-2016 02:38 AM by clin | 7 comments »

I’ve been making some gates for my house. Here’s a link to a project I posted a earlier. Here’s the drawing. the gate is roughly 6 ft tall and 4 1/2 ft wide. So it is a rather large gate. While the back gates, made from inland red cedar, came out fine, I wanted a more refined look for the large front gate leading to our house. After calling around, a small lumber dealer “Southwest Lumber” in Albuquerque, NM suggested I consider Spanish cedar. So I h...

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View CraftyCantrell's profile

Skill Building #2: Learning More of the Things!!!

08-22-2016 10:08 PM by CraftyCantrell | 3 comments »

I’ve switched to a largely video format, as it’s easier to hit record at the beginning of a process, hit stop at the end, and then edit out the unusable bits. This week I undertook Lesson 1: Assignment 6: Tongue and Groove Joint Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VI1IjMi-j1Y Link included above, as I’m not sure that the video is loading correctly here. And you can read my full write-up on my regular blog

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View MSilva's profile

Woodmaster planer/molder tongueand grove attch

03-25-2014 03:52 PM by MSilva | 2 comments »

Hey guys!I have been doing research on the Woodmaster 718 Any info on tis machine? Are there any other machines out there that I can compare to this one?Is there any tongue and groove attachments for a 13” Jet planer molder? Thank YouMS

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View Mosquito's profile

Fun with a Stanley #45 - #3: Tongue and Groove

03-18-2014 12:13 AM by Mosquito | 18 comments »

Using my Stanley #45 plane to cut tongue and groove. For the purpose of this example I am using a couple pieces of pine. I am using the 1/4” Tongue and Groove irons, and have the depth on the tongue iron set as deep as it can go. The Groove depth stop is set to match this depth once the tongue has been cut. The #45 is set up with the short rods as opposed to the long rods. There is nothing stopping a person from using the long rods, I just prefer to use the short ones when I ...

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View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile (online now)

Wall Hung Tool Cabinet #15: Material Prep for Panel Doors

06-23-2012 04:05 AM by Smitty_Cabinetshop | 66 comments »

EDIT: Updated pics to eliminate PB BS… well, except for the video at the end. That’s still hosed, sorry. Smitty When we left off yesterday, I had a pile of cherry needing attention. So tonight The plan was to joint whatever I had to in support of the next step in this cabinet build: assembly and glue-up of the upper panel doors. The panel boards ended up just a hair less than 1/2” according to the measure on the planer, and I arranged them into a pattern that’d l...

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View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile (online now)

Wall Hung Tool Cabinet #10: Backside of a Carcase

05-02-2012 03:55 AM by Smitty_Cabinetshop | 24 comments »

EDIT: Updated to eliminate BP BS. Smitty Whatever was selected for the backing material of this cabinet needed to add strength, look good and be 1/2” thick. Plywood meets two out of three of those requirements, but I just can’t fall in love with the idea of plywood in my tool till. Biggest hurdle with any other material is the work I might have to do to get it to that 1/2” thickness. I checked the remaining inventory of poplar (says Don W, and he should know) boards sa...

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View Paul Sellers's profile

Strongest mitre for picture frame - How I made it

02-16-2012 02:42 PM by Paul Sellers | 4 comments »

Moulding the stock Following up from the video film on the strength of these mitres. These are the steps I took to make this picture-frame moulded and inlaid stock and the frame itself. It’s dead straight forward using a pair of wooden T&G planes, a moulding plane, a tenon saw and a plane. You can make a simple shooting board with stop screwed to a board at 45-degrees or a proper one with removable stops. I took about 45 minutes to make it. Mould the stock with the moulding plane. I...

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View brianl's profile

Saw Till #2: Starting the build

07-07-2011 04:55 AM by brianl | 4 comments »

The basic frame for my saw till couldn’t be simpler: four pieces of 10” wide poplar. The bottom is simply screwed into the sides and the top is attached with recessed figure 8s. To support the saws, I created two levels of slotted crossbars. They are mortised into the sides of the carcase. I cut repetitive slots across them to allow me to insert a saw into them. Through trial and error I decided that having a slot every two inches gave me just enough room to store the saws an...

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View bgilb's profile

Two step stool

01-10-2010 06:29 AM by bgilb | 5 comments »

This is my first wood working project ever. It’s a step stool for my girlfriend. I got a R4511 for Christmas and that’s where it started. I still need to sand it some more, and carve hearts into the sides. I used finger joints, and the three side pieces are held together with tongue and groove joints for extra strength. Is this strong enough? There is another piece in the back with finger joints for extra strength. The finger joints had gaps in some parts, not really sure how t...

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View Woodhacker's profile

Walnut Coffee Table Construction

05-11-2008 02:16 AM by Woodhacker | 13 comments »

When I returned to woodworking several years ago my nephew had been talking about a particular style of “coffee” table he’d seen online somewhere and was describing it to me. Since he’d just announced plans to marry, I told him I’d make him, and his fiancée, the table as a wedding gift. He showed me some online photos of the table, which I used as the basic, general design plan. The joinery I chose is original but the style was taken from the photos. This piece is the result: ...

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