This is my first attempt at blogging but I thought people might be interested in the approach I took. Getting hold of consistently dimensioned timber for making boxes has always been a challenge, especially when small thicknesses are required and when the timber is hard to come by (expensive and scarce). I have seen many examples of beautiful boxes here on LJs from makers who have either made their own thickness sanders or have bought commercial equipment. For me, buying a ready made thick...
So I started to discover, this thing is heavy, so mobility will be needed. A set of flippable casters were in order. One set on the back was enough. I can easily lift the front and move it around now, when the wheels are down. Lifted up on the wheels here: And flipped so the sander sits flat on the floor here: I also did some musical chairs with electric motors today. My brass wire wheel was on a 1 hp Northern Hydraulics motor. I switched that out for the fine wire w...
I’ve decided to build a thickness planer. There are many posted here on LJ’s and I’ve looked at a lot of them. (maybe all, at least all I could find)I’m not far into the build and have a few questions for the guys who have been through this already. --Thank You for all those that posted their builds. The ideas and processes have been very helpful.-- -the drum will be made from 5” maple disk. Total sanding width will be 18” -- -I seen one mo...
Had a bunch of requests (OK, only two) to see the sander in operation. Here is a very short video of how it works. The sound is natural- the sander and the dust collector in operation. A little over 1/64” of material was being removed. For the astute observer, you will notice the addition of the broom like door sweeps to both sides of the dust hood. It seems to work but I’m not sure how much more effective it is. Also, the addition of the wheels up/down mechanism was compl...
Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!This is what the finished “hood” looks like- Had the ½” plywood from another project. This is just a simple box. I wanted some way to hold it in place and be able to remove it without tools. Made two brackets from 1” aluminum angle “iron” to catch one side and some button magnets for the other side. Dust collection is a 2 ½” angled port that connects into the collection system. The ...
Most of the photos used for this blog were taken “along the way.” As with everything made in my shop, there are always changes, modifications and “S**t! I should have…”. The first thing was when Mimi passed by and said, “it’s nice but where are you going to put it”? Anyone who has been in the shop knows you need a road map and a course in choreography to get around all of the stuff crammed in there. OK, we are gonna need some wheels to move this thing out of the way. ...
It was finally time to add the sand paper to the drum. Having decided on a Velcro (hook and loop) system, it was off to Super Grit http://www.supergrit.com/ . Their store is only a half an hour drive from here. The hook portion required 5 feet of material. This PSA stuff is 4” wide and is $2/foot. Also bought 3 different grits of the 3” wide loop paper. Their minimum purchase is 3 yards but at between $1.50 to $2.00 a yard it is reasonable. It took about 73” to wrap the drum but I think I can...
The final major part of the assembly is the table. The piece of ¾” Melamine is from the scrap box at the local Vocational School and the piano hinges are pieces left from a project made for my brother in law. The top is reinforced with a frame of ¾” plywood on three sides and a 1” piece of oak on the hinge side. The hinge is then screwed to a mounting/adjusting bracket that fits between the two sides of the frame. A slotted hole in each side of the bracket allows for vertical adjus...
Time to mount the drum and motor to the frame. The choice of 2×6 sides was made to hopefully eliminate any flexing when work pieces were in contact with the sanding surface. However, that lead to difficulty in figuring out how to be able to mount the drum bearings to the sides. Long carriage bolts can be expensive! The sides are counter bored about 3” and then drilled to match the bolt diameter. An area around the mounting surface was mortised for an aluminum plate. The pillow block bear...
Now that the drum runs true and the table lift works, it was time to start building the frame. My intention was to use mortise and tenon joinery but my choice of material was 2×6 for the top and bottom of the sides. This was larger than my mortiser could handle. I know, I could have chopped them out by hand. I opted for half lap joints. The overall width of the frame is 23” and the table height is about 31”. The length, at the bottom, is about 36”. The table is 16” x 24”. The frame is ma...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1387 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Just for Fun... - 84 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1410 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 394 entries
- dbhost - 389 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- mafe - 229 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 193 entries
- Rustic - 185 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- shipwright - 180 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 166 entries
- stefang - 164 entries
- PurpLev - 163 entries