Tenon cutters are quick but sloppy. See how-to carve a tenon using a draw knife that will look great and fit tight! See the full tutorial by following this link: http://logfurniturehowto.com/tutorial/learn-how-to-carve-a-tenon/
I designed a log clamp to hold logs that are too big for the lathe. My friend, Mitchel Dillman over at Colorado Rock*N Logs fabricated it for me. See how to use it to carve a tenon in this video! Please visit my website and FaceBook Page. Thanks!
Hello again folks. Here I am in the home stretch. I say that but I know there are still a bunch of details left. I decided to go with drawbored Mortise and Tenons with no glue. The splayed legs on this bench make it incredibly stable as is so it’s not necessary at all. I also won’t have to worry about glue not curing well in the cold weather. The idea of not watching the clock during glue up is pretty nice to, especially on an assembly his size. The hole stress free thing is true in the...
Began work on the upper doors of the Wall Hung towards the end of Episode 19 by creating a bead detail on the right door while telling you of a rebate needed at the left door. No pics cutting the rabbet, but the center stiles come together just fine. All four stiles for the upper doors were cut to rough length and grooved for floating panels ‘too long ago’ to remember… The rail boards were measured and marked for their rough cuts; those are the pieces t...
happiness is a tight tenon! first rightsideup dry fit… finish line in sight! still need to deal with the overhangs, finish the chop, chamfer the arisses, drill, drill, drill, flatten, finish, etc.
Well, here it goes. I posted in the forum about getting started on some hand tools and thought it was time to get started on the most important tool of the shop, the bench. There are a few design constraints on this project, namely, I have to be able to bring this thing back at least in pieces in my Toyota camry from Raleigh to Charlotte, but I’ve always enjoyed a challenge. Anyway, I’m going with the standard mortise and tenon design. I was sick of constantly looking at my cra...
I thought that this new YouTube video we did on split-cutting and pare-cutting tenons rather than sawing them would help others to experience an alternative that works really well on most any wood type. I have done it this way for decades now and just realised that I hadn’t shared it as widely as I would like to. Try it in any wood you like and see how it works for you. Some woods, Sapele, ebony, mesquite and such, may not always split straight, but it shows how to cross-grain pare as a...
I never would have guessed that cutting 4 mortises would take all afternoon. Because the mortises are angled to match the wedges, the fitting process takes a little longer than usual. I cut the first one by hand, then decided to cut the rest at the mortiser. Cutting past the layout line on the shoulder side of the mortise will ensure the joint pulls tight. Keys installed. A few taps on the wedges and the shoulders draw up tight. The keys were cut on the bandsaw. When the k...
Well, it’s been a long haul, but I can (sort of) see the light at the end of the tunnel for my workbench. After the near-fiasco with the assembly of the frame, I turned to the humongous leg mortises. First step was to hoist the assembled legs and stretchers up onto the inverted top to mark the mortises. This was not too difficult even though the assembly must weigh 80-90 pounds. A little grunting and angling saved my back and got it up there. Positioned it carefully, clamped it d...
To see the version with pictures, please click here. I didn’t have much time in the shop today, but I do what I can, when I can! There was just enough time to cut the first two bridle joints in the legs (I did both the left rear and left front legs). I had put the layout lines on the first one yesterday so I was ready to grab the saw and have at it today. But man, my arm is sore! That 4×4 Douglas Fir is no joke to cut a 3.5 inch by 1 inch chunk out with handsaw and chisels...
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