The first rule I try to follow when using epoxies is “Don’t get any on you !” and the second one is “Don’t get any on your handles !” Basically for more reasons than I need to get into here no one wants to get it on them. The question seems to be how to avoid it. I’ve used A LOT of epoxy over the years for everything from gluing hulls together to making wooden fuel tanks, water tanks and even a bathtub and I’ve developed a number of procedure...
A Scrimshaw Art Journey: A Lumberjock’s “Short Version” of the Techniques for Decorating a Powder Horn by: Mark A. DeCouwww.decoustudio.com (This writing, photos, and artwork are protected by copyright by M.A. DeCou 2007-2010, all rights reserved, please ask permission before using any part or component.) =============================== UPDATE 9-25-2012:This past summer I had four students at the John C. Campbell Folk School class on Powder Horn Building and Scr...
I just finished up the video for applying edge banding to melamine. This video follows Part 1 on how to get clean cuts in melamine, which can be quite a challenge without the right blade and techniques. Once the melamine is cut, often it will need to have edge banding applied. So I cover this topic in Part 2. I could have made a 2 minute video that shows me applying a piece with an iron and trimming the excess, but that can leave a person with a lot of questions. In these videos, you no...
I thought I would try to shed a bit of light on how I make my paddles. I build 3 different kinds of canoe paddles, a normal straight shaft and blade paddle, a straight shaft power stroke blade design, and a bent shaft power stroke blade design. Here are profile shots of what they look like. Bent shaft paddleStraight shaft paddle As an avid flat water canoer/paddler, I am very conscious of the need to keep the weight of the paddles down as much as possible yet making them strong at the ...
I finally had a day to work on our stuff. With a little urging from my girlfriend to finish the fumed table sitting in our dining room, I bit the bullet and gave it a good shellacing. This was my first time using shellac. It’s pretty difficult to work with, as it dries fast and leave a build-up. I cut the Zinser Amber in half with denatured alcohol, and grabbed a beer for myself (I thought it only fair), and went to town on it. It gave it a nice, rich look. When that dried, I ...
Many folks over the past year have emailed me asking about whether investing in a website was worth the money and time. In my opinion (likely to change any day) for many folks that are just wanting to share their artwork with the world, I think a community posting like Lumberjocks is a better effort of your time spent. If you want to sell your work, or do it full time, then how you use the internet needs to be part of a bigger plan. Almost all “artist-based” websites I have r...
Just thought I’d throw this out there:PlansNow.Com released a PDF document today on a technique to build up composite crown molding. Makes it very easy to see how such a beautiful result is achieved. They usually release one technique article and one free plan per week to their email newsletter subscribers, such as last week’s 15 tips for sanding success.
Ancientwood has developed a technique for filling large, structural cracks, sometimes found in Ancient Kauri slabs. This is a step-by-step approach for creating a flat surface with beautiful patterns and design. 1. The slab must first be flattened. This can be done with a drum sander, planer or a CNC router.2. After the slab is flat, locate cracks that need filling.3. Fill any hairline cracks with color-matched latex putty. Wet the adjacent area of the Ancient Kauri with spirits to get an a...
A few weeks ago I blogged that a new book on Scrimshaw artwork was being authored by Jim Stevens from Colorado, called “Scrimshaw Techniques.” Jim was nice enough to include some of my scrimshaw work in his book, and so I have been anxious to see how it came out. The book was released for sale a couple of weeks ago at Schiffer’s website, and I found it this morning on Amazon as well. As soon as my purchased copy arrives, I’ll give a book review and tell you what...
I thought it would be a good time to take a break from rehabbing vintage tools to actually build a project with them. So I pulled a copy of “Basic Box Making,” by Doug Stowe from my bookshelf. I’ve always liked this book and have admired his creativity and craftsmanship. I like to keep things simple. So to me, that means starting at the beginning of Stowe’s book. That has the advantage of slowly learning new skills in layers as projects become more complex. Flipping to the first ...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1598 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 96 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1623 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 279 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- shipwright - 219 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 198 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 187 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 176 entries