A friend has commissioned a special project from me for his wife. She collects “Christmas Houses”. I gather that these are porcelain or ceramic buildings that light up and are displayed in “Villages” around the house. His wife wants a set of tiered shelves that are round, allowing a 360 degree display of her collection. Requirements for the project are as follows: 1. 60” Tall2. 4 Circular Shelves3. General shape is consistent with a Christmas Tree4. Must break...
I call any taper that cannot be accurately cut on the table saw a micro taper. Usually anything under 1 degree. The taper I needed to cut was 0.2 degrees, so the only tool for the job was the jointer. The process was pretty simple. I needed to taper 1/16” over an 18-inch length. I made a 1/16” spacer and raised my jointer to a 1/16” cut. I placed one end of the panel on the spacer and ran the panel through the jointer. As the front edge of the panel hits the knives, t...
Over a year ago I posted this blog entry [link] about the jigs I’ve made for my table saw. Even then I knew the tapering jig pictured above was in need of augmentation. At the time it was adequate, but every time I used it… This week I decided to just take the time and fix the old tapering jig up so that wouldn’t feel so much on the edge when I use it. The main reason though is that I want to use it more for putting a nice clean edge on boards that are not straight. ...
hello all.. Now, having got the parts of the basic structure ready I wanted to get this glued up solid before fitting the parts that form the drawer pocket so I needed to get the legs shaped. Apart from the use of the Cocobolo panels the legs were the only other part I was fairly certain of once I knew this would be a table. I had seen some legs I liked and which seemed like they would fit here. I had a photo of the piece that sported those legs and imported it into sketchup. I used th...
And the brainstorming continues: After much thought, the necessary thickness to recess the t-track would make the jig too thick to allow for use with the router, there simply would not be enough depth left to work with. Why build just a sawboard? On to version 2.0: This sawboard would double as a routerboard on the left side. Base made up of 2 lengths of 3/16” hardboard glued together. Guide on top would be 1”x2” aluminum rect. tube with a groove cut out for 4 feet,...
Well the sawboard is a pretty simple jig, but man is it invaluable! The other day I needed to rip long taper cuts on a 2×6 and it was just the tool. I have been thinking about incorporating some holding clamps to the base to make it quicker to set up and use. This is what I came up with as my first run at design. I am thinking this would be ideal for breaking down plywood. The overall length is longer than 8’ so the design is two ply to allow for overlap. One side has a piece of ...
Now that you have the joints cut you are a bit closer to your glue up…but don’t be too hasty. There are three things you need to do first. 1. Do a test fit on the joints for the whole table. (well, at least the base)2. Plane the tapers on the legs after cutting them to length.3. Create the shrinkage buttons that are used to attach the top as well as the mortises in the rails that they join to. Here I am just getting an idea of how the final product is going to look. R...
Taper tool DIYfrom old saw blade and a piece of wood. Making my shaving horse I realized that I needed a taper tool for future projects, so I tried to find an old one with no luck, and then I checked the prices for a new and realized I wanted to make my own… After some looking at the web I found this page: www.greenwoodworking.com and there a fine version that should be quite easy to make from some scrap and a spin on the lathe, so I went for it.Thank you to greenwoodworking! F...
I was able to get back out into the shop and make some progress on this project. This was my first foray into template routing. I can definitely see the power of this technique. I was able to knock out the inside, decorative cuts on all four sides and they’re identical. They need almost no sanding. The slight errors in the template were the only problems on the finished sides. It took only a light hand sanding to fix those. I didn’t have too much trouble with wood grain, ...
Following TreeFrog as closely as possible, I cut out the blanks for the sides. I cheated a tad and used the wedges from the prototype to establish the tapers on the sides. One one side, I used one wedge, on the second side, I had to use both to compensate for the previous taper. These were cut with the blade at 90 degrees to the table saw to give me a point of reference when I’m cutting the miters. I created the jigs to hold the sides stable while I cut them at a 44 degree mit...
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