I was finally ready to glue up the frame. It happened that my friends Terry and Kris came over and were there for the glue up. The joints really can’t be clamped easily, but the 3/8” pegs and the offset in the draw bored holes pulled it together. I whittled a oak spindle down to about 7/16” in diameter and then drove it through a steel plate that was drilled at exactly 3/8”. I forgot to take a picture of the dowel making, but will include one later. After ...
I am almost done with the frame. Below is a shot of what the frame will look like. I recruited my grandson Phin to run the mortiser. There are lots of them in the sides for button holes and one for each of the legs to fit into. The ends of the frame are cut with a nice gentle S curve. Two lines are drawn on the pieces because the S curves also need to be beveled. Nothing leaves a better finish than the drawknife and it is very enjoyable. No sandpaper her...
I wasn’t satisfied with the fit that I talked about in the last entry so I called my mentor Dick. Dick is the best sharpener, dovetail cutter, and jointer that I know, and he came over. The two sides went together but still had a gap of 1/16 in a couple of places. After a while, Dick thought that I needed a miter jack or we could make one. So we made essentially a guide that wrapped the work piece on three sides to guide a chisel. Shaving very fine amounts and pushing the chisel at...
A question was asked in part 1 of this series on how to flatten the top… I started replying in the comment thread, but decided to just make it part 2. I’m investigating building a dining table myself. What is involved in “flattening” the table top? Any special tools or large equipment required? I ve seen people use parallel rails and a router sled for rounds and slabs, I suppose that might work? As with most woodworking tasks, there are multiple ways to accomplish...
The diagnonal tenons can be shaped on the table saw almost identically to the way a 90 degree tenon would be made. I cut the inside cheek cut very carefully and then quickly nibble out to the tenon’s tip.Because the shoulder will hide where the tenon actually enters the mortise, i can cut the tenons to width with the bandsaw. The tenons can slightly narrower than the mortises as they will match up to end grain which gives little glue strength, and they are covered in any case. after ...
Nakashima Inspired Walnut Slab Table #2: Filling Knots and Cracks, Butterfly Inlays, and and a Start on the Base
I’ve made some progress on the kitchen table in the last few days. I started filling the knots and cracks in the top with epoxy. This is a messy job, and its a pain to get all of the bubbles out. I’m starting with the bottom side to perfect the technique. I burned the epoxy in one place where I held the torch too long trying to get the bubbles out. That just made a ton more bubbles that wouldnt come out. I also practiced making butterfly inlays on some scrap wood. Thi...
I am almost finished with the straight tenons that go through the end pieces of the frame. Almost, in that the ends will be shortened and beveled, but I will hold on that until the entire frame is ready to glue, so that they don’t get damaged until then. The two tenons are very straight forward but they do show and I took my time so that there were no gaps. First I just nibbled away at the cheeks with my table saw. After I sawed the cheeks, I used a handsaw to cut the shoulder...
I’ve been planning this project for quite some time. I actually started building reproduction Gustav Stickley Spindle chairs about three years ago. Other projects and a move got in the way, and they’ve been sitting disassembled in my closet for quite a while now. I decided to start the dining room project back up recently but to start with the table. Once the table is complete, I’ll at least have a usable dining table that I can scrounge chairs up to use with while I ...
My wife wanted to buy a new kitchen table. After much convincing, I was able to convince her that we should spend that money on a walnut slab rather than buying a set from a big box furniture store. I picked up this slab from a local sawyer before I decided on the final design. Usually, I’m much more methodical, and work out the design well before I buy lumber, but I couldnt wait for her to change her mind :) Lucky for me, my neighbor owns a cabinet shop with a large Timesaver...
Someone mentioned that she liked the blog, but didn’t know all of what I was talking about. With that in mind, here is a picture of the model from below. I am working on the frame that is just under the table top and is at the top of the legs. I am currently chopping mortises and while the jig works well, there is still a significant amount of hand chopping and there are eight mortises to chop. When that is done, I will finish cutting to length, cutting tenons, diagonal ends, mo...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1694 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 92 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- Life as an Amateur Woodworker - 69 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1719 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- dbhost - 403 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 286 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 231 entries
- Betsy - 228 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- stefang - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 203 entries
- robscastle - 196 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 191 entries
- Dave Rutan - 191 entries
- Rustic - 190 entries