It has been a while since I posted, but I have been working on the lower stretcher that connects the four legs. This is a repeat of what I did with the frame but the stretcher has a few additional features. The stretcher through mortises pass through the legs and since the joinery all shows it must be precise. In addition, the hayrake portion of the stretchers have curves cut into them which makes the glue up a bit more challenging. I am keeping the work pieces rectangular as long as po...
Since a lot of us produce “longer”, or taller, items that we want to post on LJ’s, we typically end up having to take the photo from a distance so that the entire object can be included. The resulting photo ends up not showing the finer details of your work.This type of scenario applies to some of my own pieces, such as carved walking staffs, or canes, but there is a free tool to help us get around this problem, and I expect that it is already installed on your PC with eithe...
The dry assembly looked good, so I chamfered the ends of the through tenons, and glued up the table. -----Lapped dovetails secure the top stretchers. -----The half-lap joints and the lapped dovetails all came out flush.-----Then I cut the tops with a circle cutting jig and plunge router. I used a 1/4” spiral bit and cut the top free in multiple passes. -----The 1” thick top came out nice, with minimal sanding at the oscillating belt sander. I eased the edges with a 1/8”...
I was finally ready to glue up the frame. It happened that my friends Terry and Kris came over and were there for the glue up. The joints really can’t be clamped easily, but the 3/8” pegs and the offset in the draw bored holes pulled it together. I whittled a oak spindle down to about 7/16” in diameter and then drove it through a steel plate that was drilled at exactly 3/8”. I forgot to take a picture of the dowel making, but will include one later. After ...
I am almost done with the frame. Below is a shot of what the frame will look like. I recruited my grandson Phin to run the mortiser. There are lots of them in the sides for button holes and one for each of the legs to fit into. The ends of the frame are cut with a nice gentle S curve. Two lines are drawn on the pieces because the S curves also need to be beveled. Nothing leaves a better finish than the drawknife and it is very enjoyable. No sandpaper her...
I wasn’t satisfied with the fit that I talked about in the last entry so I called my mentor Dick. Dick is the best sharpener, dovetail cutter, and jointer that I know, and he came over. The two sides went together but still had a gap of 1/16 in a couple of places. After a while, Dick thought that I needed a miter jack or we could make one. So we made essentially a guide that wrapped the work piece on three sides to guide a chisel. Shaving very fine amounts and pushing the chisel at...
A question was asked in part 1 of this series on how to flatten the top… I started replying in the comment thread, but decided to just make it part 2. I’m investigating building a dining table myself. What is involved in “flattening” the table top? Any special tools or large equipment required? I ve seen people use parallel rails and a router sled for rounds and slabs, I suppose that might work? As with most woodworking tasks, there are multiple ways to accomplish...
The diagnonal tenons can be shaped on the table saw almost identically to the way a 90 degree tenon would be made. I cut the inside cheek cut very carefully and then quickly nibble out to the tenon’s tip.Because the shoulder will hide where the tenon actually enters the mortise, i can cut the tenons to width with the bandsaw. The tenons can slightly narrower than the mortises as they will match up to end grain which gives little glue strength, and they are covered in any case. after ...
Nakashima Inspired Walnut Slab Table #2: Filling Knots and Cracks, Butterfly Inlays, and and a Start on the Base
I’ve made some progress on the kitchen table in the last few days. I started filling the knots and cracks in the top with epoxy. This is a messy job, and its a pain to get all of the bubbles out. I’m starting with the bottom side to perfect the technique. I burned the epoxy in one place where I held the torch too long trying to get the bubbles out. That just made a ton more bubbles that wouldnt come out. I also practiced making butterfly inlays on some scrap wood. Thi...
I am almost finished with the straight tenons that go through the end pieces of the frame. Almost, in that the ends will be shortened and beveled, but I will hold on that until the entire frame is ready to glue, so that they don’t get damaged until then. The two tenons are very straight forward but they do show and I took my time so that there were no gaps. First I just nibbled away at the cheeks with my table saw. After I sawed the cheeks, I used a handsaw to cut the shoulder...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1661 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1686 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- dbhost - 400 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 281 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 229 entries
- Betsy - 226 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- stefang - 209 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 201 entries
- robscastle - 189 entries
- Rustic - 189 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 188 entries
- Chris Davis - 184 entries