Someone mentioned that she liked the blog, but didn’t know all of what I was talking about. With that in mind, here is a picture of the model from below. I am working on the frame that is just under the table top and is at the top of the legs. I am currently chopping mortises and while the jig works well, there is still a significant amount of hand chopping and there are eight mortises to chop. When that is done, I will finish cutting to length, cutting tenons, diagonal ends, mo...
Most of the layout is complete for the frame parts. I did not do the button holes or the curved ends of the diagonal pieces yet. My thinking is that I want to get all of the mortises finished, then go back to cut everything to length, make the tenons and curved ends, button holes, and finally bevel the lower frame edges. It is really helpful to have a full size drawing, as no measurement is needed, I just had to transfer from the drawing to the actual blanks. The mortising guide block fro...
I have 16- 45 degree mortises to chop in the frame and the stretcher for this table. I made this guide block and the photo below shows the half assembled block with the two angled guides that I will chisel to. The small block with the holes in it are a drill guide that I will use to drill out waste before chiseling. That guide will be slipped into the block loosely and after drilling it can be pulled out for chisel work. I am hoping that the drill guide holds up but I have a buddy who sai...
Quite a while back, I decided my little townhouse needed a proper dining table, despite not actually having a proper dining room to put it in. I like to entertain friends and enjoy cooking as much as I do woodworking and wished to have somewhere for everyone to sit together. I had little room for a full size table and decided I wanted to build a drop leaf so I could stash the table against a wall or behind the couch and I ended up settling on an ambitious (delusional??) design based strongly ...
I finished carving one leg with all but the tenon at the top. The carving went well and turned out great. I will carve the rest in my spare time and will use shop time to build the frame which supports the table top. The view here if from the bottom looking up under the top. Each of the pieces are 3 1/8 wide and 2 1/2 thick. The joinery is draw bored mortise and tenons. The tenons are each 2 inches wide and 3/4 thick and present a challenge as most of the joinery is at 45 ...
I rough cut the oak barn beams, jointed, planed the four legs and let them sit overnight. After marking out for stretcher mortise, beveling the edges, and turning the pads on the bottom of the leg I headed to the mortiser. I don’t have a 7/8” mortise chisel, and I also wanted a very clean mortise as the tenon is a through tenon. What I did was to use a 3/8” chisel and stayed away from the scribe line. I then went back and cleaned up the mortise by hand with a chisel. ...
Fine Woodworking Magazine published an article many years ago of a table that Sydney Barnsley built in the 1920’s.The table is now in a museum in Cheltenham England. The article had original drawings that I redrew in Sketchup.I traveled to England last year to see the original and I have just procured some old white oak barn beams that I am going to use for the undercarriage. The table fascinates me and will require a lot of hand work and chip carving.It may take a while, but I wi...
Because my table saw has one of those thin metal blade inserts, I’ve been thinking for quite a while how to make a zero clearance insert for my saw. I cut quite a few small or thin items and often, as might be expected, the thin cuttings fall down the slot between the insert and the blade. Only once did this actually result in something a bit startling, but I wanted to remedy the situation in any case. At one time, I tried making a ZCI by dadoeing around a hunk of wood so that ...
So I used 2×1 poplar to frame out where I will house the router.. I will be using 3/4 MDF .. That’s next I will need to custom cut the MDF to fit and I’m just praying that I put the frame pieces in the right place so support the MDF and that it also looks symmetrical as Dara’s where the drawers will be going on the sides!
I recently made a stone top table with Mortise and Tenon Joinery. I was thinking of making more of these tables, also ~3×3” legs with 1.5” thick aprons would make some pretty sweet work tables out of construction grade pine. Normally I would simply use a router and edge guide to make the mortise, then cut the tenons with a combination of hand tools (to cut shoulders) and bandsaw for the cheeks, then cleaned up with a router plane. However since I want to make multiple tables I figu...
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