This is a quick run down of one way to go from rather large Walnut slabs to a beautiful dining table top. By using large vintage woodworking machinery and new world wood working tools I take two 22’’ wide 2.5’’ thick Walnut slabs from rough raw lumber to a soon to be dining table top. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCoSTnI1JpA
Today I had an hour or two to spare after work so to the shop I go. I finished up sanding the top and cleaned up the edges a bid. There is still more work to do on the table top but I wanted to move on to get the base mocked up just to get a taste of how my plans are working out with stability and the right height. It took a few hours to get this one end done and I had planned on taking a few pictures to show along the way but I was just in my own little world and didn’t th...
So I started this entry this morning before I went out to the Shop to start this build I am so excited to do. Right as I was about to walk out the door go figure my wonderful daughter woke up and were begging for bacon and eggs… so the start had to hold of a little bit for the little princess’s. I did finally get out to the shop and here is what was accomplished today (definitely not as much as I had hope but a start non the less) I started with just some basi...
Simple enough here, right? Duplicate the look and feel of the aprons on the Farmhouse Table, but at the size and scale suited to a buffet with drawers. Whereas the table needed 2×4s for apron material, a buffet needs more height for drawers but less width of stock overall. I took the biggest clue from the squared-off stock at the top of the turned legs; it was that dimension setting the height of the casework and nothing else. So with a 3/4” undercap taken into account, I ne...
How I made some legs that have a curved foot for a set of tables I’m working on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tByYIauTXj8
It has been a while since I posted, but I have been working on the lower stretcher that connects the four legs. This is a repeat of what I did with the frame but the stretcher has a few additional features. The stretcher through mortises pass through the legs and since the joinery all shows it must be precise. In addition, the hayrake portion of the stretchers have curves cut into them which makes the glue up a bit more challenging. I am keeping the work pieces rectangular as long as po...
Since a lot of us produce “longer”, or taller, items that we want to post on LJ’s, we typically end up having to take the photo from a distance so that the entire object can be included. The resulting photo ends up not showing the finer details of your work.This type of scenario applies to some of my own pieces, such as carved walking staffs, or canes, but there is a free tool to help us get around this problem, and I expect that it is already installed on your PC with eithe...
The dry assembly looked good, so I chamfered the ends of the through tenons, and glued up the table. -----Lapped dovetails secure the top stretchers. -----The half-lap joints and the lapped dovetails all came out flush.-----Then I cut the tops with a circle cutting jig and plunge router. I used a 1/4” spiral bit and cut the top free in multiple passes. -----The 1” thick top came out nice, with minimal sanding at the oscillating belt sander. I eased the edges with a 1/8”...
I was finally ready to glue up the frame. It happened that my friends Terry and Kris came over and were there for the glue up. The joints really can’t be clamped easily, but the 3/8” pegs and the offset in the draw bored holes pulled it together. I whittled a oak spindle down to about 7/16” in diameter and then drove it through a steel plate that was drilled at exactly 3/8”. I forgot to take a picture of the dowel making, but will include one later. After ...
I am almost done with the frame. Below is a shot of what the frame will look like. I recruited my grandson Phin to run the mortiser. There are lots of them in the sides for button holes and one for each of the legs to fit into. The ends of the frame are cut with a nice gentle S curve. Two lines are drawn on the pieces because the S curves also need to be beveled. Nothing leaves a better finish than the drawknife and it is very enjoyable. No sandpaper her...
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