In part 4 of this series I pre-raised the grain, and applied the initial coloring with Transtint Brown Mohogany Dye. When the dye is wet it looks amazing, but quickly dries to a lifeless sheen. -----The drawer fronts were stained before assembly. After the glueup dried overnight, the drawers were lacquered. -----The desk was stained with Varathane Dark Walnut oil based stain. When wet the stain looked great, but it too dried to a grayish cast. Not to worry though, once the lacquer was a...
With the corbels installed, we can move on to the drawers. -----Here my son sands the drawer parts. -----I made the drawer parts 3-1/4” (the exact width of the drawer opening) to accommodate my dovetail jig. After the dovetails were milled I edge planed them to final size, being careful to remove an equal amount from both edges. -----The dado creates two sections to each drawer.-----The 3/4 extension undermount slides will only display the front drawer compartment. Releasing the fr...
This is where we left things last time…-----The desk is quite strong, however it looks pretty plain at this stage. The next step is to add 8 inside corbels, so I made a template routing jig. I like to use toggle clamps, because they double as handles when routing. Carpet tape also works, but for workpieces this small I prefer toggle clamps to keep my hands clear of the bit. -----After cutting the rough shape at the bandsaw, I trim the corbels to size at the router table.-----In no t...
With the legs complete, I milled up some stock for the rails. All joints are deep mortise and tenons, except for the top drawer rail which is a lapped dovetail. -----Test fitting the lower drawer rail.-----The lower side stretchers feature through tenons. -----The upper drawer rail features lapped dovetail joints. With the same dado blade setup used for the other long rails, I cut the dovetail to 1/2” thick, and established the side shoulders. -----After laying out the lines for t...
Well after taking second place at the Portland Woodworking Show with the last project, a cherry trundle bed, it was time to start the next project. -----The current project is a small library desk for my son’s room. He helped in the design phase, choosing corbels over spindles for the sides of the desk. We also have a special white oak board with a bullet lodged in it. Caden decided he wanted to incorporate it into the desk. -----I am fortunate to have a stack of 400 b.f. of white...
Well, the rain today halted construction of my storage shed so I had time in the shop to make the top for the router table. It couldn’t be much simpler: two thicknesses of 1/2” plywood. They were cut larger than the cabinet base so that I have room to clamp around the edge. I rough cut a rectangular hole in one piece. Then I pinned 4 pieces of scrap to the top around the hole to make a pattern, then used a handheld router with a guide bushing finish cut the rectangle. Afte...
Check out my latest effort CHECK IT OUT http://youtu.be/A3obh9cB_NM
My friend, Travis Piper, showed me this table he has had since he was a kid; it’s thought to be from the 1930s. It’s very unique the way it folds up when picked up in the middle. I really like the design, shaker-esque in nature. I modeled it in Sketchup. My only change was to the skirt, adding an arch, instead of the mild scallopy profile that is on the original. My rendering’s metal support rails are a bit too slivery; I think I would make them a flat black, if I were to ma...
This saw was my dad’s pride and joy. It a B&D DeWalt R1350 built in 1968. The family gave it and many other woodworking tools to me when he died several years ago. I tuned it up and put a simple table on it back then (2009.) I reassembled and built wheels on the stand. Some say don’t use WD40 – use liquid graffite. After I got all done, I read another book the said, never use liquid graffite – ONLY use WD40. The sign “2nd table” I scraped...
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